Questions about chassis
- losiXXXman
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Questions about chassis
Need some info on chassis. I know the difference in a slimline and a junior chassis (side pods and all), and between x2 and a pro chassis. My question is how does the wheelbase on the prose and the junior compare with the pro and the x2.
Reason being, I think the pro is a little long, and I have the perception that it's like the TRX1 - limo chassis and contributes to push/understeer. I had a JRXT when I was first starting, and I changed it over to buggy and later h-arms, but it always had a lot of push as I remember. Looking at rehashing my youth, but I want a more responsive driver this time around.
Thanks!
Reason being, I think the pro is a little long, and I have the perception that it's like the TRX1 - limo chassis and contributes to push/understeer. I had a JRXT when I was first starting, and I changed it over to buggy and later h-arms, but it always had a lot of push as I remember. Looking at rehashing my youth, but I want a more responsive driver this time around.
Thanks!
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Re: Questions about chassis
x-2 is short wheelbase
x-t, pro, junior series and pro-se(in the standard config) are all the same wheelbase
lxt is extra long, this wheelbase is an option on the pro-se as it shares the slimline chassis with the lxt.
x-t, pro, junior series and pro-se(in the standard config) are all the same wheelbase
lxt is extra long, this wheelbase is an option on the pro-se as it shares the slimline chassis with the lxt.
- GJW
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Re: Questions about chassis
[quote="losiXXXman"]Need some info on chassis. I know the difference in a slimline and a junior chassis (side pods and all), and between x2 and a pro chassis. My question is how does the wheelbase on the prose and the junior compare with the pro and the x2.
Reason being, I think the pro is a little long, and I have the perception that it's like the TRX1 - limo chassis and contributes to push/understeer. I had a JRXT when I was first starting, and I changed it over to buggy and later h-arms, but it always had a lot of push as I remember. Looking at rehashing my youth, but I want a more responsive driver this time around.
Thanks
Reason being, I think the pro is a little long, and I have the perception that it's like the TRX1 - limo chassis and contributes to push/understeer. I had a JRXT when I was first starting, and I changed it over to buggy and later h-arms, but it always had a lot of push as I remember. Looking at rehashing my youth, but I want a more responsive driver this time around.
Thanks
- losiXXXman
- Approved Member
- Posts: 935
- Joined: Sat Aug 29, 2009 9:53 am
- Location: Cary, NC
- Been thanked: 5 times
Re: Questions about chassis
That's totally correct about the SE front arms. I upgraded to them as well back then, and they did help, but it was still a pushing car. It's weird, after my T/Pro, I moved on to a Traxxas LS2 truck had no issues with push. Come to think of it, my "race" cars after that point were XX, 2 XXcrs, a World's Car RC10, RPM RC10, another XXcr, and a XXX. And I never had a push issue again...I wonder if there was really an issue or did I just learn how to drive and tune?..
- highwayracer
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Re: Questions about chassis
hello,
The original jr chassis was about a half inch shorter than the pro/xt/jr2 chassis. Using this chassis will give you better steering, but the chassis only has a 20 degree kick. The later chassis have a 30 degree kick.
The swept arms on the SE shortened the wheelbase by .25 inches...so it turned a little bit better.
I had the same problem with my pro back in the day. I did a lot of research (on the track) and wound up using some assoicated castor blocks (25 degree). I tried each combination and 25 worked the best.
I guess another option would be to use the RPM 30 degree bulkhead on your jrx2 chassis...but if the track has some bumpy sections, you'll feel it with the shorter chassis.
Good luck...
Regards,
highwayracer
The original jr chassis was about a half inch shorter than the pro/xt/jr2 chassis. Using this chassis will give you better steering, but the chassis only has a 20 degree kick. The later chassis have a 30 degree kick.
The swept arms on the SE shortened the wheelbase by .25 inches...so it turned a little bit better.
I had the same problem with my pro back in the day. I did a lot of research (on the track) and wound up using some assoicated castor blocks (25 degree). I tried each combination and 25 worked the best.
I guess another option would be to use the RPM 30 degree bulkhead on your jrx2 chassis...but if the track has some bumpy sections, you'll feel it with the shorter chassis.
Good luck...
Regards,
highwayracer
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