Another what's old is new build............

[a01butal]

Ok, yes I do a little sanding also but like on the inside of the chassis I don't and it seems blotchy, maybe I'll try a little oven cleaner first and then blast. Thanks. Oh and your stuff looks great just like always.

[scr8p]

you could just try to stand on it a little more when your glass beading it. just don't stay in one spot too long.

i've noticed some anodizing is more stubborn than others when it comes to removing it. especially the factory team blue.

[SnoopMaxx]

the truck had real nice white parts on it. although they are a little on the yellow side. man..... i wish there was a way to make yellowed parts white again.

You CAN have snow white parts if you soak them in ................................

[delsami]

this is similar to what i want to build. this is awesome!!!!!!!

[treehugger]

you could just try to stand on it a little more when your glass beading it. just don't stay in one spot too long.

i've noticed some anodizing is more stubborn than others when it comes to removing it. especially the factory team blue.

i had to strip an old blue and there seemed to be some sort of filler under the blue like a high build primer

Paul

[DerbyDan]

I love what you are doing - very neat workmanship

P.S; I rather like the look of the raw ally

.....Oh & that blue car is stunning!

[scr8p]

not much going on with builds around here lately. i know......... it's nice outside.

but anyway, a little update on this car. my chassis parts are at the anodizer. he sent me a quick pic of the nose plate to make sure i was happy with it. looks like i should have the stuff back by the end of the week.

[Toasted Coastie]

Very nice! Do you go local for anodizing? Is it cost effective?

[THEYTOOKMYTHUMB]

Did you send any shock bodies along? That would look sweet with matching shocks. Although the shocks might make people jump to the conclusion that it’s a Kyosho. Looks like it will be sweet. Love the color choice.

[scr8p]

Very nice! Do you go local for anodizing? Is it cost effective?

the guy that's doing it is on the other side of the country. i called around to a couple different local places, but unless you have a bunch of stuff to do at one time, all in the same color, it's not worth the price. to have the 3 chassis pieces done from this guy it'll be like $25. oh, and a pair of front axles.

Did you send any shock bodies along?

no. i'm not a big enough fan of red to do that much of it. the only reason i choose red for the chassis is it'll go along well with how the body will be painted.

[THEYTOOKMYTHUMB]

That shade of red is really cool though. It’s not “in your face” or anything, just nice and subdued. Goes along great with a vintage looking ride. I’ve never really had a desire to have any form of aluminum pan car, but now I have the urge to do one just so I can pick out my own color anodizing.

[N2Deep]

Scr8p, I just sent you a pm cuz I need something glass bead. Any rate, love your project. I'm also looking to do a project myself on the rc10 and rc10t. When you strip the anodizing off and have it reanodize it again, do you polish the pieces first or are you letting the item as is after you are done glass bead blasting it. I was looking through your project here and this is what I usually do to whiten up the parts. These nylon parts for the rc10 can be whiten up by using motor spray. I have used motor spray on all of the parts needed for whitening and it works every time; unless the parts were discolored due to burn or something of that nature....it should brighten it up quite a few notches. for a deeper clean and whitening, you can also put the parts into a glass jar, pour rubbing alcohol (hydrogen peroxide) and let it sit out in the sun....mandatory. Somehow, the alcohol and sun combination is a magical process...look it up on Tamiyaclub. Hope this helps. Back to the anodizing, how much does your supplier charge to do a whole car...motor mount, chassis, nose piece and shocks? As always, thanks in advance.

[scr8p]

i was joking when i said...... i wish i knew how to whiten yellowed parts. i know the trick.

i don't know what he charges for anodizing a whole chassis and shocks. i'd have to guess more than the $25 i'm paying to have the 3 chassis pieces done.

i wanted to have him just anodize over the glass beaded surface, mainly because i wanted a dull finish. but it seems like it was giving him some issues. i know he had to do something to the parts to make it work, but i don't remember what it was. so more or less, the next time, i'll just chemically strip them so he doesn't have to worry about it.

[jwscab]

abrasive blasting can leave residue that's hard to clean, espcially if you are trying to do something to the actual metallic skin of the part, although the anodizer should be doing a chemical clean of the part. usually a lye bath(oven cleaner), or some equivalent caustic solution.

I've been told this, and seen this first hand, the way you prep the surface will provide different results and colors, the more polished you make the part, the greater gloss, and more 'candy' the surface will appear.

neat stuff....

[scr8p]

the more polished you make the part, the greater gloss, and more 'candy' the surface will appear.

i wanted my stuff as dull as possible, which is why i didn't want to do any type of sanding on them. the glass beading leaves a fairly uniform finish, unlike sanding (well...... unless you take your time). but to eliminate the sand scrathes, you have to keep going finer in grits, and all that does is more or less start to polish the aluminum.

i didn't want the car to look like a friggin' christmas tree ball.