Project Boxter! Box art Replica.

[liquorboxracing]

I have started my box art replica project and have gotten a good jump on some of the key items to complete it. I have found the tires that match the car on the box art, as well as as the Novak speed control. I have to machine a heat sink for the speed control as finding one the same style as the one on the box would be very hard to do. I have removed the anodizing from four original shocks, and turned a machined finish back on them. I have rebuilt them as well with new seals and fresh oil. I have started making the front and rear shock towers to match the box art car, and already have the battery straps finished. Ialso need to make a rear upper tranny support. I now have the material to have the upper shock collars, and lower spring cups made, and I am going to start laying out the print so my friend can machine them for me. I still have a tone of work to do but so far it is going smooth. Here are a few pics below. If you wish to see what is done so far then here's the link to the web page. http://gassaninedesigns.com/id55.htm









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[MelvinsArmy]

That's sick! Totally awesome.

I can't wait to see the finished product. When you're done, you should make a little display case with a dirt floor and a background that matches what's behind the car on the box.

You should make a small run of all the parts your fabricating and sell a limited edition box art coversion kit.

Very nice work.

[badhoopty]

You should make a small run of all the parts your fabricating and sell a limited edition box art coversion kit.

i would buy...

i've been thinking about the same approach the last couple weeks, down to the mud splats and all that.

[Asso_man!]

I have removed the anodizing from four original shocks, and turned a machined finish back on them. I have rebuilt them as well with new seals and fresh oil.

Could you tell us exactly how to obtain such a nice finish. What do you use to remove the anodizing? Brake fluid, thinner?

[Eau Rouge]

I have removed the anodizing from four original shocks, and turned a machined finish back on them. I have rebuilt them as well with new seals and fresh oil.

Could you tell us exactly how to obtain such a nice finish. What do you use to remove the anodizing? Brake fluid, thinner?

EZ-Off oven cleaner will take off anodizing (BE VERY CAREFUL, THIS IS A SODIUM HYDROXIDE-BASED PRODUCT (LYE) AND VERY CAUSTIC), then polish or buff with Nev-R-Dull or a ScotchBrite, or polish with a Dremel and polishing compound. You could always have them re-anodized, too.

[liquorboxracing]

I have removed the anodizing from four original shocks, and turned a machined finish back on them. I have rebuilt them as well with new seals and fresh oil.

Could you tell us exactly how to obtain such a nice finish. What do you use to remove the anodizing? Brake fluid, thinner?

There really is only three ways I would remove anodizing from aluminum. One is to have it removed by someone who does anodizing and has the proper chemicals to losen the anodizing without harming the aluminum. Two is to bead blast the anodizing off then repolish. Three is to chuck it up in a lathe and turn it off, which is how I had these done. I wanted a machined finish as if they were fresh off the lathe. The only area I had a problem with was the hex. I had to bead blast that area then sand and polish it by hand. The rest was cut on the lathe by my friend John. You can bead blast the shock bodies and then chuck them up in a drill, spin them while wrapping them with a scotch bright pad or emery cloth and acheive a pretty nice finish as well. But I wanted the cut marks from the tool cutter in the shock bodies on mine. I only did it this way really because my friend said he could cut them for me and he had access to the big lathe at the time. Just a couple ways to do it. I do not like using chemical cleaneres to strip ano from parts.

[Asso_man!]

thanks for this piece of advice, but what kind of tool do you use to bead or sand off the anodizing?

[Eau Rouge]

Just an FYI, from spending a good chunk of my formative years getting dirty in a machine shop, bead blasting opens up pores in the surface of the aluminum that make it difficult to polish. It's one of those "once you go there" methods that is difficult to regain an original appearance. I would only use a fine glass bead at low pressure as an absolute last resort. Though re-anodizing a glass beaded finish is a really slick matte finish that is hard to beat (and hard to keep clean, too).

A little lye (EZ-Off) and a little wadding polish, and it's a very simple process. It will also remove the anodizing from the inside of the shock, too. You'll be surprised how well it works (old car restoration technique).

[Eau Rouge]

thanks for this piece of advice, but what kind of tool do you use to bead or sand off the anodizing?

A sandblaster filled with microscopic glass beads instead of very abrasive sand. Not really your everyday hobbiest shop tool.

[Asso_man!]

Thanks Apex, that's what I thought

[Asso_man!]

the problem now is to keep your shocks shiny, aluminium will now oxidize, which is precisely why they anodized them maybe a teflon coat will help

[MelvinsArmy]

I've heard that mixing vaseline in with your Mothers aluminum polish will help keep the parts shiney for a long time. It will get in the pores and give it a thin protective coat. I haven't tried it myself, one of my vintage BMX friends told me about it.

[badhoopty]

i polished my pk ripper with nev-r-dull years and years ago and while its not as shiney as it once was it hasnt oxidized. (or maybe i need to check it more closely...)

[liquorboxracing]

the problem now is to keep your shocks shiny, aluminium will now oxidize, which is precisely why they anodized them maybe a teflon coat will help

There is a product we use here at the Hot Rod shop where I work called Zoops Seal. It is a sealer for aluminum. It is kind of costly but it works good, and will keep bare aluminum from oxidizing for up to two years. Now that is two years out in the elements not two years sitting on the shelf in a controled climate like this buggy will be. I'm hopeing it will keep a shine for little longer than two years. I got my fingures crossed.! Here's a link for more info. http://www.zoops.com/zoopseal.asp It works on Billet wheels and engine parts.

[justinspeed79]

I have used the EZ off and polish technique many many times with nothing but excellent results. You can use clear-coat made for aluminum 1:1 wheels to paint the aluminum after it has been polished. I have done this with shocks and chassis', and it works well and last a long time with normal use. For a shelf queen that won't even get used, I think it would be permanent.