RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

I've been putting in some time tweaking the track, race-testing in both directions various cars. I had to carefully file down several track connections that didn't transition smoothly in one direction or the other. You can tell which areas weren't perfect by listening as the faster cars went around ...

Beautiful body and nice job on the fixes. I would've used Shoe Goo instead of CA glue on the Lexan though, because it will flex whereas CA glue dries perfectly hard and may be brittle. Shoe Goo is what racers use to strengthen the insides of their bodies by gluing on patches of drywall tape in the c...

Beautiful build, blast! I really like your color choices for the paint, quite original! I see you mounted your LiteSink the same way I did with one of my builds, mounting it inboard instead of outboard. I think it's meant to be mounted outboard so the heatsink is outside the body where it will get s...

Merry Christmas as well, to everyone! I'm guessing with this pandemic situation happening, many of us are in hobby mode a lot more than usual, when the holiday season typically has us abandoning our projects...the forum seems to have a lot more activity going on than usual!

It looks like the previous owner incorrectly installed the rear shock tower to the back of the rear bulkhead instead of the front. Put it on correctly and your body should fit again. :) Here's a modded but correct assembly for comparison: https://www.rc10talk.com/download/file.php?id=71869&mode=...

I've made a good amount of progress on this 22-4. It still needs the front drives and steering spindles sorted. I'm still looking for an Exotek rear camber block. Please let me know if you have one. I added additional cut outs to the belt covers in the front, middle, and rear. My buddy is my Jenday...

GeneralZod wrote: ↑Sun Dec 20, 2020 7:36 pm Looks like a good car to bring back to life. Fortunately, I don't see gobs of super glue on it!

Amen to that. I had to deal with that on my Agitator Pro 10 build and Shogun restoration. What a pain.

I actually get a bit disappointed when I receive a used chassis that's in TOO good condition...like, "What's there for me to do here?" Dirt and funk cleans up easily. Broken and missing parts, stripped threads, CA glue, ancient double-sided tape residue...now THAT'S when I go "WOW!&qu...

Bill, like the others said, I wouldn't recommend NiMH batteries either, if you're going this far into a resto-mod...buh-bye NiMH's! To explain why...NiMH batteries start losing their charge the moment you take them off the charger. Just leaving it sit for a few weeks will drain some or all of it. I ...

I gave the shocks a thorough going over with sandpaper and metal polish after de-anodising them. The rears had suffered from years of spring gouging and really needed it. They're not perfect but they look great compared to what they used to look like. Note the brass spring collars. Pretty nifty. Sw...

I was finally able to get some restoration done on some incomplete Le Mans motors I had stashed in a Ziploc bag, with a big thanks and shout-out to Craig from New Zealand, cas22 on the forum. We traded some parts and what came my way--after a nearly 2 month wait--was a NIP Le Mans Gold endbell. I've...

And finally, my Le Mans motor lineup is done. 240ST (meh), 480S, 480 Gold, 240SB and 360 Gold. It's missing quite a few but now I have 2 more completed motors instead of parts in a bag, thanks to Craig's Gold endbell.

Hey! What's wrong with the 240ST? At least it's not a Mega Motor. :lol: I know, they just don't grab your attention like the three piece can Le Man's. :D Are you going to get a reproduction 480 Gold sticker or try to find an original? I don't like motors that you can't remove the endbell and do a p...

Guys, I wanted to share a solder station recommendation to the RC10Talk nation. I have to say I never looked forward to the soldering part of our hobby. I hated it. I had a decent Weller standalone iron, I believe this one, for years: https://www.amazon.ca/Weller-WP35-35-Watt-Professional-Soldering/...

For me, it's the 240SB. It's an absolute beast, I consider it the top dog, performance-wise, of the classic Le Mans motors. But I hear you, the brown anodized aluminum isn't quite as eye-catching as the red 240S.