RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

I mentioned in a previous post that I painted the lighted cars' clear plastic light buckets silver on the outside, because I think it looks better when the light is actually shining from the headlights ahead of the car, and not spilling out all over and glowing all around the front and underneath th...

The wheels are aftermarket Pargu wheels (Korean guy). Does the bottom of the chassis plate have countersunk holes? If yes, it's most likely a Turbo Optima Mid SE. If the screw heads are protruding, it's an earlier flavor.

The wheels are aftermarket Pargu wheels (Korean guy Thank you, that’s interesting, I wasn’t sure how long Pargu had been making wheels, I’ve had this optima with these wheels for 8-10 years. I bought these wheels from him back in May 2013, and he had a very big selection on his website back then. N...

I had the 480 Gold in my Optima back in the day. It was purchased new, I had to save up a lot of money to order that from Tower Hobbies back then. And I can say it was nowhere even CLOSE to the 240SB...or even the 240S, for that matter. Weird. I don't know how an 8-minute motor could outperform a 4-...

I have that file, it's a 46-page Word document. If anybody wants a copy, PM me your email addy.

Scored a "New" 360pt on Ebay today (wasn't cheap)☹...lucky to snipe it at 2 secs left but glad to get it to replace the bad one... If it really comes in new I probably won't run it but if it has been ran, by signs on the commutator, I will run it in the Salute and see how it compares...&q...

Maybe you should check out the WLToys 144001. It's a bit smaller of a buggy at 1:14 scale, but should be easily nimble enough to keep out of the dog's reach. I'm modding one here, if you want to follow the upgrade process. https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=114&t=45819 You can get these fo...

Cheers to you, Todd...I'll tip back a brew in your honor tonight!

You would think so...the Optima & Ultima originally had the same dogbones...62.5mm pin-to-pin. I don't have any re-re's so I can't confirm with those parts, but I imagine they'd be the same?

I have the predecessor, FlySky GT3B, and it's great for bashing around or general purpose use. It may not have the refined "feel" of the better-known brands, for example the wheel itself. It just feels cheap compared to a brand name like Futaba. My old Magnum Junior feels way nicer than th...

I'm a Ford before Ferrari kinda guy +1. If you're a racer or really picky about your transmitter "feel", by all means go for a big brand-name radio for 3x the price...not to mention the price of adding servos and receivers. The 3-channel FlySkys get the job done for anyone on a budget, re...

I've had very little success stripping paint from bodies...but I did have luck on a few occasions. If it was painted with Pactra, the paint actually bonds to the Lexan and is nigh impossible to strip without damaging the Lexan (i.e. hazing or milky appearance that's inside the Lexan itself, not some...

Interesting. That kinda makes me wonder how Kyosho rated the RPMs of their Le Mans motors, as their older motors were all intended for 7.2-volt NiCad batteries, but what about the later cars that were intended to run 8.4V NiCads and 240S-variant motors on those 7-cell packs--like the Turbo Optima an...

It smells Italian.

Now it's my turn to share how I'm building my motor dyno. A little late to the party, but I got to borrow from some of your guys' great ideas. :mrgreen: The trickiest part is finding a way to attach something to the motor shaft. I originally was thinking to use a spare motor pinion gear and somehow ...