RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Has something changed that is causing the site to run slow? It's been happening for a couple days.

It doesn't happen on other sites. Doesn't matter what device that I use. Doesn't matter if wifi or mobile data.

The last couple packs that I built used Tenergy NIMH cells. Then I put MCI decals on them.

Not perfect, but they don't look out of place either.

Those tires look too worn to consider trying to restore them. I'd just replace them. The front wheels are three piece versions, that clamp the tires in place. They "shouldn't" be glued. Traxxas still sells a 2.1 step pin that fits them perfect, and they are only ~$8. Schumacher has a coupl...

Those type of kits are fairly poor quality. Except for a shelf car, they are near useless. The rear hex is simple enough. You just need the hex that fits your axles. For the front, I'd probably look at the Custom Works kit. It fits with little modification. Traxxas Bandit parts have also been used o...

I’m also planning to rebuild a Tamaya Stadium Blitzer for my boys, one that I had growing up. Good to know for those tires. Great truck. I have four Stadium Blitzers and a buggy that uses mostly Blitzer parts. I also have a Futaba FXT, which is like the Blitzer's first cousin. When you get ready, l...

Here is one of mine, with a Hobbywing 1060.

https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=46479

THEYTOOKMYTHUMB wrote: ↑Fri Sep 08, 2023 10:54 pm Got this from my cousins the other day.

Humm?

Think I'd just buy an M4 die and cut the thread myself . Which one? Screenshot_20230910_081613_Gallery.jpg Seriously though, I actually had the urge to check if I had one after seeing your post. Turns out that I have M3 and M4 taps and dies, in both pitches. I was pretty sure about the taps but had...

Here are mine.
The buggy is mostly built from Blitzer Beetle parts.

The FXT isn't technically a Blitzer but they share some suspension and driveline parts. All of the arms, carriers, and caster blocks on that one are new re-re Blitzer parts.

I only see one decal that is different. The re-re has a yellow Finespec in place of the original yellow Pro Gear. And I did check the steering rods. The longer one on the re-re is ~5mm shorter than the original. It is borderline too short. Some longer 4.8-5mm ball cups at the servo saver would solve...

Started on the re-re Blackfoot that I got last Christmas. Screenshot_20230914_220338_Gallery.jpg Mods: - MIP ball diff - Am Pro steering blocks, shock mounts/body mount supports (not fully pictured), and motor adapter. - World of Prints rear shock mount braces, center servo mounts, and rear skid pla...

Blackfoot sitting on it's own weight. Now I need to finish the electronics. Screenshot_20230915_132815_Gallery.jpg Ampro steering blocks. Screenshot_20230915_131539_Gallery.jpg Ampro shock mounts and body mount supports. Screenshot_20230915_131555_Gallery.jpg World of Prints rear shock mount braces ...

Could be a bad potentiometer.

I have a Futaba esc that acts stupid, kinda like that.

It's electrified!

Mounted the Hobbywing 1060 and Novak XXL on a piece of Kydex and routed all the wiring underneath.

That 15T Orion SV2 is probably overkill for a Blackfoot, but damn it looks good.

Buy some of these (or similar cheap motor)and strip them for parts.

https://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p_prodid=29483&p_catid=518