RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

mrlexan wrote:And damn, Doug's getting OLD (we all are).

Try it again... not sure what was up with that file. Should be good to go now. Thanks for letting me know.

I didn't see this before, but if you are looking for the PDFs of the back issues, check the link in my sig.

i had one in 1988. neat car, very distinctive, well made and different, thought it was one of the worst handling 1/12th scale cars i have ever owned. i raced it for a half season and couldn't get rid of it fast enough. returned to a 12L after that. looking forward to this project, though.

Glass or stainless steel is perfect. I wouldn't mess with Teflon coatings, myself. The cheap disposable tin casserole pans from the grocery store are great, too, over a gas range or BBQ grille. And in anything that you need to clean up, SoftScrub with bleach is your friend.

Speedy's is black G10, but you can do a lot with scrap CF bits.

Honestly, there is no way I rebuild that diff and replace everything in it except the $1 diff balls. Seems like a perfectly good waste of time, actually. :| Reg's way is a good way to tighten the diff, and I also like to use a tool for holding the diff outdrives to check tightness... http://www.apex...

The ONLY problem with ceramics, is that when you rebuild the diff, you are less likely to throw out the diff balls because they are more expensive (usually $1 a ball). What kind of quality ceramic ball are you getting for $4 a pack? Anyway, if you are re-using ceramics, they need to EACH be individu...

A "gritty" diff comes form various things... mostly a work thrust bearing setup. The tiny balls and plates in the outdrive should be replaced every 3rd or 4th time you rebuild the diff, or immediately if it's a new to you gearbox. You can resurface the rings by hands sing the 400/600/800 w...

scr8p wrote:

mrlexan wrote:I am surprised Scr8p (Mr. Kyosho) didn't point out that those are NOT AE shocks on that RC10.

atleast the car was built......

Bwahahahahahahahah!

mrlexan wrote:Nice Doug, I love the Coke Autog sheet.

I am surprised Scr8p (Mr. Kyosho) didn't point out that those are NOT AE shocks on that RC10.

Anyone racing an RC10 in the 80s knew that Kyosho Golds were the ONLY shocks to have on your car.

When did they start using a transponder system? I didn't realize they had them back then. Our track didn't have them 'til about '89 and I thought we were in early. Yup, about 1988 here in the US (Lake Whipporrwhill, Florida). Bolink brought the AMB system to the US. It was in Europe earlier than '8...

Here's some inspiration for you...

All three A-mains all the way through the E-main are up on http://www.vintagerccars.com in the VIDEOS section in case someone wants to see them all in one place. There will be more coming, too, as I get time to render the videos out.



doug

Build it the way you would have built it in 1988... solder the motor wires, use the ESC fuses, receiver wire in the antenna, battery packs wired up and assembled properly, paint the body, oil in the shocks. The best shelf displays are those that are the most accurate. Cars with clear bodies, no elec...