RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

I just found out that a 0.050" driver is better for those screws even though it said 1.3mm on the suppliers' website. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Hudy-Hex-Driver-0-050-/120593558881?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item1c13efad61 The 1.3mm is OK but I've found it can strip the hex in the s...

Yeah me too! I'm going to race my Procat into the ground... carefully (?)

Do you want my new Kamtec shell? Nothing wrong with it but I'm looking at the TBG one because I prefer the original window shape. The TBG one on eBay looks good.

Has anyone actually bought one and painted it?

Hi Carl, that orange belt will go nicely with your new motor plates

Proper bullet-proof transmission.

I was lucky enough to get a one off set in red!



There's a clear anodised set on eBay...

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Schumacher-Cat-XLS-Procat-motor-plates-vintage-SWB-/270632847019?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item3f02f986ab

Heads up on a BRP belt...

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Schumacher-CAT-XL-Buds-Ultra-drive-Belt-long-lasting-/200517057818?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2eafbf7d1a

Does anyone have a workshop or access to tools to make this for me. It's two underchassis weights for my Procat? They'll also clamp the undertray uniformly so no more split lexan. Even better if they're 4mm and the holes are countersunk. Would need two. http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m134/kaszal...

Thanks Chris... now all I need to find out is where I can get a high tensile steel rod 3 x 70mm with 5mm threaded at either end. Anyone?

Bugger... the 71 tooth belts I have are too tight. 1 tooth does make a difference... at least with the pro-diff and eccentrics I've got.

Some good things were said about the orange Bud's belt here...

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=16575

The tooth profile looks more trapezoidal on the new ones... but it also looks like this on the BRP orange belt. Wondering whether I should fit 'em or not?

I bought some replacement rear belts for my Procat from www.sdp-si.com part No. A 6B16M071060 These are the same pitch (MXL) and nearly the same number of teeth (71 instead of 72) but a little wider (6mm instead of 5mm) and made in urethane with kevlar reinforcement. The tooth profile also looks a l...

Thanks Jason! That means a lot coming from one of the top vintage Schumacher guys! Credit for the bodyshell has to go to Jon at www.rcsgraphicworx.co.uk I still prefer the original Procat and XLS shells but I need the width of the Parma "fat cat" shell to go around the stick pack. The car ...

Hi Eric, they are definitely strong enough. I had to use machine screws for the rear gearbox anyway because I've got an alloy inner transmission housing and alloy z-bracket. The front gearbox is clamped with four M3 x 40 countersunk bolts instead of the 8 self tapping screws. Just to be sure I've al...

Thanks John! I've replaced nearly all of them with M3 socket head screws.

This website has metric and imperial screws...

www.modelfixings.co.uk

eBay is also good for those hard to find screws like the front gearbox bolts (M3 x 40 countersunk)

Thanks Jason, will try that. Any particular product you like?

Truly, you are the king of vintage runners.

Did you see my new shell by RCS?

The white draught excluder tape is useless at keeping the water out. I believe it's "open cell" foam. The water goes right through like a sponge. Anyone know what I could use that's thin and will seal out the water better? Thanks. http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m134/kaszal/new%20modifi...