RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

I got this fancy smushed box from Poland, so excited

This is from Artful Dodgers who make class 2 comp chassis' i have to get one for one of my Enduros.

A big shout out to Frankentruck for the goodies. He sent a white and a black 3d printed rear bulkhead so I didn't have to chop up a decent vintage one. The white wins me over for now despite the little bit of warping. I've also decided Sees wheels wrapped with some proline worlds c3 tires in the rea...

Sunset at my place

Just get a Factory Works tower for the truck shocks. I have them on two of my cars. Do you mind sharing some pics? I'd like to get an idea of the looks first. Both have 1.02 truck shocks. V1 on the right side and V2 on the left. The ones on the right are setup a little shorter because of the Andy's...

juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Fri Jul 08, 2022 2:58 pm Just get a Factory Works tower for the truck shocks. I have them on two of my cars.

Do you mind sharing some pics? I'd like to get an idea of the looks first.

This bastard "dry" bit me this morning. Still did the ER trip just in case and waited it out. Great way to ruin an afternoon. Good news is that he was in the same spot when we got home, so at this point I am in MUCH BETTER condition than he is! :D Pretty sure I would have shit my pants

I've decided to go with gold shocks. I'm using truck shocks in the back, but need buggy shocks in the front. I'm going to have a hard time matching the anodizing front to rear, but I'll give it a try. I've already got mixed matched shock caps for now. 20220708_145145.jpg 20220708_145245.jpg 20220708...

Not the best pjc to show the fitment, but the body is on. I had to trim off the back end to get it to sit flat and put the rear mount on the front of the rear tower. I might see if I can still mount the back part separately. The question is, should I ream out the body holes or leave them... it is go...

juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Mon Jun 27, 2022 7:25 pm Did you see the Lunsford Retro series?

Screenshot_20220627-182417_Samsung Internet.jpg

Yeah, I love these things! They have that period correct look to them. I used them on a past build of mine. I'm definitely considering them.

I found some goodies that are perfect for this build, NIP white ballcups. The Lunsford tierods might do for now, but I might see what's out there for options.

If you didn't mind it being made of black nylon, I could 3D print you a rear bulkhead. Your RC10 Graphite wouldn't have to get cannibalized for that part. That is so tempting! I want as many white parts on this as I can, because fibreglass chassis' look great with white parts and stainless hardware...

juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Sun Jun 26, 2022 3:52 pm Just notch it.

Screenshot_20220626-145046_Samsung Internet.jpg

The rear will require trimming for the torque arms.

I'll most likely notch it and call it a day, thanks for the pic!

The template is for drilling the extra two holes. You reuse two large holes. The trans brace you have is not correct for using a lethal weapon on a C2. It’s for using a lethal weapon on a standard rc10. The C2 pushes the bulkhead forward a bit. I’ll need to make you a trans brace The super short 4-...

Chassis would need to have two holes drilled out, a longer trans brace, and you would need to modify the rear bumper. They trans and the chassis were different eras, and were not really used together. That said I have built quite a few c2 with lethal weapon. Well, I've mod'd the rear bumper and ins...

If you didn't mind it being made of black nylon, I could 3D print you a rear bulkhead. Your RC10 Graphite wouldn't have to get cannibalized for that part. That is so tempting! I want as many white parts on this as I can, because fibreglass chassis' look great with white parts and stainless hardware...