Vintage RC10, not sure what 'edition'...please help

[VintageRC67]

Good evening,

I'm new to vintage RC10 buggies, though I had an original RC10T when I was a kid. Now I'm looking to get back into R/C cars, focusing on 'vintage' kits (re-re's) and restorations/rebuilds. I've heard this is the place to come with questions, to meet knowledgeable people, and to learn more about these awesome cars.

I just picked up a vintage RC10, have not received it yet (should be here Monday 1 July), but want to learn more about which 'edition' it is...I've checked the '25 Years of the RC10' thread a couple times over, and am not sure, but *think* it may be a Cadillac gold pan. I can make out a stamp on the rear of the chassis, right under where the motor mounts, but I can't tell if its just an 'A' or if there is something else there.

The car is a roller minus wheels and tires...so...a 'complete chassis'?

Vintage RC10 'roller'

roller_left.jpg (29.43 KiB) Viewed 2066 times

Vintage RC10 'roller'

roller_left.jpg (29.43 KiB) Viewed 2066 times

One can just barely make out the stamp in this photo, but I can't tell if its just an 'A' or if there's something else there, too:

rear end_left.jpg (24.02 KiB) Viewed 2066 times

rear end_left.jpg (24.02 KiB) Viewed 2066 times

I'm pretty sure its a pre-Stealth chassis as there are no holes drilled for the Stealth.

Bottom of chassis

bottom.jpg (21.86 KiB) Viewed 2066 times

Bottom of chassis

bottom.jpg (21.86 KiB) Viewed 2066 times

And, its got the trailing axle front hub carriers:

Front end, trailing steering hubs

front_left.jpg (41.95 KiB) Viewed 2066 times

Front end, trailing steering hubs

front_left.jpg (41.95 KiB) Viewed 2066 times

So, I'm looking for a couple of things:
a) What 'edition' chassis is this?
b) What do you guys think I should do with it?

I've thought about doing a straight-up restoration and trying to find the right parts to finish it, or doing a 'rebuild' and possibly drilling the chassis for a Stealth transmission, maybe do longer front arms, and fit B2 dish wheels...or even using it as a platform for a RC10T conversion, if that's feasible. I am not leaning one way or another right now.

I also have a pre-order in for an RC10 Classic, so I was thinking this could be my runner, and I'd use the Classic as a shelf queen.

Some more pics (off the ad, I'll post more when I get it next week):

roller_right.jpg (33.75 KiB) Viewed 2066 times

roller_right.jpg (33.75 KiB) Viewed 2066 times

rear end_above.jpg (32.82 KiB) Viewed 2066 times

rear end_above.jpg (32.82 KiB) Viewed 2066 times

rear end_right.jpg (23.81 KiB) Viewed 2066 times

rear end_right.jpg (23.81 KiB) Viewed 2066 times

front_top.jpg (36.52 KiB) Viewed 2066 times

front_top.jpg (36.52 KiB) Viewed 2066 times

Thanks for any help y'all can give, I appreciate it.

-VintageRC

[justinspeed79]

I am not really one of the experts, but it looks like an early Cadillac A stamp to me. Nice car.

[scr8p]

it's a standard cadillac car. hard to tell in the pic, but it looks like the A stamp was struck twice.

[jwscab]

yep, standard cadillac car, that has been used, but well maintained. you could go pretty much any way you want with it. rebuild it nice and fresh add factory wheels and tires and keep it on the shelf.

or add jc racing wheels with modern rubber and drive it around for fun/bashing, etc.

or strip it down and built it totally custom, in to a old is new buggy, truck, etc.

[VintageRC67]

Alright, I'm going with that it is a pretty standard, run-of-the-mill Cadillac version. For a minute after I received it I was a bit disappointed because the front left steering knuckle was missing the hinge pin, but I luckily I found it in the box before I tossed it. I missed that there was one E-clip missing in the pics on the ad, and sure enough, the pin was down one clip.

I've decided that I am going to make this a runner, not a full-on restoration, but more of a rebuild, and I would like to do a couple mods (things I probably would have done had I owned one of these great cars 'back in the day'.) Here's what I'm thinking:

- Stealth Transmission (I know I'll have to drill out the chassis for it...need to find a drill guide and get a good metal drill bit, as I have a drill press - suggestions?)
- Wide front A-arms (still debating on black v. white, but am currently leaning white)
- I'd like to keep the wheels as stock as possible, but still run the JConcepts wheels with modern rubber when the mood strikes...is this possible?
- I'm not really sure on the body, so I'm open to suggestions. I'm probably going to have this sent out for paint, just because I'd like it to look really good.
- Since I'll be bashing with it (no tracks close enough to be worth it), I'm also open to suggestion on the powertrain.

So, lemme know what you all think, input is greatly appreciated.

Cheers,
VintageRC

[jwscab]

jc rc racing wheels, not jconcepts. If you use them, they bolt right on the axles you have and run 2.2" tires. when you want to run the originals, simply swap them over.

black front arms would be easy to find, the white arms are a little tougher but not much.

for bodies, the easiest and cheapest would be a viper or protech, both readily available cheaply.

[VintageRC67]

Thanks jwscab, I don't know why I didn't put JC Racing, it was in your previous reply (d'oh!)

Since I will mostly be running this in the street, are there recommended tires?

And does anyone have a drill bit recommendation for drilling out the Stealth trans. holes?

Also, I've read a couple threads here on basic, affordable brushless set ups, and I think I'm gonna do one of those.

VintageRC

[jwscab]

Proline dirt hawgs are good all around tires for street/ dirt. Rear for sure but you can also use rib in front instead of the front dirt hawgs.

#4 screw close fit clearance hole is around .118 to .120 inch. A number drill is what is called out usually but dont know off hand which one.

[jasond]

That's a nice car! I recently came into a similar condition one but with the wider arms. I refuse to drill holes in mine, but you will need a #31 drill (.120") if you decide to do yours.

[VintageRC67]

That's a nice car! I recently came into a similar condition one but with the wider arms. I refuse to drill holes in mine, but you will need a #31 drill (.120") if you decide to do yours.

Thanks jasond, I appreciate the note about the drill size I'll need. The chassis has been scratched up quite a bit, and whomever ran it before I acquired it decided to use velcro to secure the battery...fuzzy side on the batter and hook side on the chassis. I'm not sure how much Goo Gone it will take, but I'm sure I'll have to work at getting the adhesive off. Point being that I don't mind drilling out for a Stealth since the maintenance and such is quite a bit easier.


I have another couple questions for the collective wisdom of the crowd:

1) Should I get a full "screw set" (a la RCScrewz) to replace all the rusted/missing miscellaneous hardware? If so, would you all recommend the 'standard' or 'metric'?

2) Are there any upgrades, such as shock towers, A-arms, etc. that won't fit this car? For example, I've read about Andy's arms, but I'm not sure if the hinge pins are the same length on this car as on, say, a CE chassis. In other words, are there any pitfalls that I should be aware of as I'm shopping for replacement/upgrade parts?

Many thanks for the kind responses. I have a set of vintage front wheels & tires, a Stealth Transmission, and a drill guide on the way. Now I'm shopping for wider front arms (will I need different shocks or will the 'stockers' work?), vintage rear wheels & tires, and have a query in to JC Racing about a set of their 5-spokes for bashing around the neighborhood.

Cheers,
VintageRC

[VintageRC67]

Update:

I have received one set of wheels so far, which look to be in decent shape, all things considered:

jelly bean front wheels

The tires even have some decent tread left on them...should make good display wheels after I scrub them clean and do a hydrogen peroxide bath:

I'm still looking for jelly bean rears, as the wheels I have coming are dish-style.

Also still curious about a previous question: Are there any upgrades, such as shock towers, A-arms, etc. that won't fit this car? For example, I've read about Andy's arms, but I'm not sure if the hinge pins are the same length on this car as on, say, a CE chassis. In other words, are there any pitfalls that I should be aware of as I'm shopping for replacement/upgrade parts?

Thanks all!

[VintageRC67]

Ok, so I think I've got everything I'll need to finally rebuild my vintage gold chassis. I am debating between using wide arms or keeping it stock. Any thoughts one way or the other? I am definitely going to run this car, so I'm less concerned about it being a 'perfect' restoration...its more of a 'what would I have done to upgrade it and run it around my neighborhood/local ballpark?' kinda rebuild.

-JL

[GoMachV]

Short arms lead to CE tower, .71 front shocks, better bellcranks, trans updates, and on and on. I say keep the short arms and run it!