RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

here is one example: http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=16582&hilit=traxxas+bellcrank Read through the link there is a few good ideas listed in it. I am using Traxxas parts and they seem to work well and the parts are cheap and easy to find. There is also one using all current AE ...

Well I talked to the guy who I got the motor from and he said it was ready to race but he doesn't think he used it to race. His only thought was maybe the brushes were not the best. But he thought the motor would get into the 180s for temps after a five minute race. I ran an unscientific test yester...

I'll have this test. I have a MVP motor that is getting very warn, even under on load, with a LiPo. I haven't tried it with NiMh so I will have to try that and see if there some hope. I'll let you know what happens.

It is very hard to spin it by hand. I had it out of the car and in my hand to make sure there was no other reason the motor was getting warm. I will talk to the guy next time I see him. He did say it was a race motor so I might have to save it for that only. I'll let you know what I find out. Thanks...

Gearing isn't the problem. It gets hot when holding it in my hand.

I'll have to talk to the guy I got it from and see what he did to "prep" it. If he has no ideas I'll have to start looking for another to use.

Thanks again
Mark

I added some oil and tried again with the same results. Opened it up and nothing looks unusual. It does seem to spark at the brushes more than the ohers I have. This might not be a big differance since I never trued my coms on the others so it might be normal. It almost feels like the brakes are on ...

I have a Reedy MVP 24* stock motor I want to run in my gold pan. Any time I to use it the temp goes from cold to HOT in about 2-3 minutes. I took it out of the car and with no load it is warm in 2 minutes and getting very warm by 3 minutes. I can still hold it as long as I don't touch the heat sink ...

I have been using this EXI http://www.hobbypartz.com/60gexidise.html from Hobby Partz in my sc10 without too many problems. I did break one after 12-14 months of racing. I put a second one in again with no problems so far.

id just time how long your running .. id say run it for 10 min then shut it down if you want to be safe.. i dont think you should run lipo with brushed motors.. unless your running a stock motor the lipo seems to kill brushed motors.. How does the LiPo hurt the brushed motors? I'm not trying to be ...

Using different size wire should, as said before, not hurt anything as long as you are not making large changes. I look at it like a weak link in a chain, the smallest wire will be the limiting factor on how much current the motor can get. If you ever get done running and the wires are hot then you ...

Opps! I meant 3.8 volts per cell. Not sure what I was thinking.
Mark

tommy2c wrote:Went with Proline 4 ribs and calibers. I think looks okay.

Tommy just wondering what gearing you are using?? I've been trying to get close after switching to b3 wheels and have no clue.
Thanks
Mark

Don't forget to put the battery on set for "storage" when you are done for the day. LiPos do'n't like to be stored completly full or discharged. Somewhere around 8.6 volts.

I like mine a ton!! I got it as a combo from Progressive RC and had GREAT service when the power supply went bad. New one shiped and works great. I've only had it a year or so but no complaints. I have used it to charge NiMh. NiCad, LiPo, and even my lead acid trruck battery. I have the 106b combo s...

Sorry just got done dealing with something and was hoping to see some suggestions. :oops: Boiling - I read somewhere around here, boiling should help put some water back into the parts so they are able to flex a little before breaking. I have seen everything from 5 to 30 minutes and was hoping someo...