JRX Pro SE Reassembly

[20eyes]

I keep coming across this site while researching my reassembly effort so I thought I would make a few posts about it while I am at it.
It started life when my dad bought a Jrx pro se In I think 92 then decided that he needed a "better one" which meant an excuse to buy a 2nd RC so we could race. That one is an RC10 Team Car and its still in my parents basement unbroken since I didn't drive it much. Long story short in the late 90's I ran the Losi with the X brace removed the radio glitched and I hit a parked car and broke the chassis so I started trying to "fix" it for no money and its been sitting in pieces in a box in my parents basement since I think around 1999. I've always wanted to at least put it back together possibly run it a few times. No surprisingly I lost a bunch of random parts so its a little slow on the reassembling part.
My dad still has the chargers, nicads, the light bar for discharging the batteries, radios and all that but I'm getting ahead of myself. The primary goal is not to restore it and put a ton of new parts on it just to rebuild it replace lost parts and make it whole again.

Sorry no pictures of it put together but the first pic ought to give you an idea of the state of it. I was a tad destructive with it and I still feel guilty now as an adult realizing how much money this stuff cost at the time. The home made shock towers were because my dad got tired of buying replacement parts for me so we improvised.

The current state. Basically I start putting stuff together realize some random part is missing then find part, repeat. I bought new shock towers from https://factoryworks.com so no more polycarbonate and plexiglass home made replacements. The front bulkhead is 3D printed I'm just too cheap to buy black filament at the moment. I do have the original but its repaired now with epoxy so I went with the 3D print. I'm missing all the steering parts at the moment but I'm fairly certain I will find them if do some digging in my parents garage.

I initially wasn't going to bother with new tires but I couldn't resist. I just put the fronts on today Traxxas 1771 spiked 2.1" As I recall the home made spiked tires were for ice and snow in the winter and they were not as effective as expected

It made sense in my head to grab the motor but no pinon gears or the esc or anything else. Speedworks Pole Position.

Of course the body, its absolutely beat but its the original that came with the kit,

[Frankentruck]

Nice project. Will be cool to see it rehabilitated.

[20eyes]

Still working on this, slowly. I was missing some plastic spacers for the drive shaft assemblies so I had to wait for those to show up and that slowed down re assembly of the whole rear end. Bonus, I realized that at some point before shelving this project I apparently installed a new set of gears for the transmission. Next I need to re assemble the slipper clutch and see if I am missing some insignificant part of that assembly as well. Also need to reassemble the shocks but at least one of them is leaking so I am going to order some new o rings tonight and change the shock oil while I am at it. Also bought new rear tires Tamiya 9805111.

[Garage Hack]

Love this. Appreciate you posting and looking forward to seeing the rest. You ever found anything that breaks down the difference between the x2 the pro and the pro se?

[Brendan2904]

That's cool. I don't think I trust my 3d printer to print parts like that though. What are you using? PLA? Printer?

[1911Colt]

I like where you are going with this! Sometimes we restore old buggies to perfection to preserve RC history, but sometimes we just put them back the way they were to preserve bits of our own history.

Keep the pictures coming

[Chewbacca]

Nice build!

That is the first race grade RC vehicle we owned. It was by younger brother's, he still has it.

Now, doesn't it technically need the retrofit XX Transmission to be a Pro SE ?

[BattleTrak]

Nice build!

That is the first race grade RC vehicle we owned. It was by younger brother's, he still has it.

Now, doesn't it technically need the retrofit XX Transmission to be a Pro SE ?

The ProSE initially came with the LRM transmission w/slipper. Retrofit & Hydra-Drive came later..

[20eyes]

That's cool. I don't think I trust my 3d printer to print parts like that though. What are you using? PLA? Printer?

PLA filament Anycubic Vyper. The 3d print is obviously not ideal but should work for what I'm doing at the moment. When I started looking for a replacement front bulkhead I decided the 3D print would be perfectly fine after seeing prices on ebay. My primary goal at the moment is get the buggy put back together in a functional state after that maybe try to revive some battery packs but thats later.
On the thought of batteries my dad had the foresight to replace the Tamiya style connectors with these gold plated connectors but they are not Deans connectors I don't have a picture at the moment no idea what brand they are but they are black with round gold plated pins. Next time I'm digging through the RC stuff I'll take a pic of them maybe someone here can ID them.
I have not done anything with the buggy since the last post. Next step is rebuild the shocks I did buy the larger o rings still need to tear the shocks all apart and see if the smaller o rings are the ones that are leaking and source them.
"preserve bits of our own history" thats 100% the goal. This poor buggy was already run hard and bashed by myself as a kid and as an adult and realizing how much money my dad spent on the RC stuff I have always wanted to simply fix it. Its probably not really worth it financially to fix this buggy for any practical reason.

[20eyes]

Love this. Appreciate you posting and looking forward to seeing the rest. You ever found anything that breaks down the difference between the x2 the pro and the pro se?

I really have no idea this is the only Losi I or my dad ever owned technically its not really even mine its dads. We used to get RC Car Action every month back in the early 90's I can only assume there was a write up on the Pro SE that made him want to buy it.
Before the Pro Se we had a gold pan RC10 that my dad bought from a co worker and that replaced another buggy we had I believe in the late 80's it was total piece of junk called a Laser that broke a lot. So every new RC was an upgrade to last in some way.

[20eyes]

I realized I didn't post any pics of the homemade shock towers and figured you may find them entertaining. My dad used to get polycarb plastic scraps from work and when we broke shock towers we would make replacements on the band saw. 2 of them in the picture I made as a kid and 1 is for the RC10 team car that my dad made, any guesses which ones I made? When I was in the basement at my parents recently I noticed that my dad still has the broken RC10 shock tower hanging on the rafter in the spot its been hanging since the mid 90s.

I also printed a replacement clamp for the wing. No idea how I managed to lose it in the first place but its replace now.

[Brendan2904]

That's cool. I don't think I trust my 3d printer to print parts like that though. What are you using? PLA? Printer?

PLA filament Anycubic Vyper. The 3d print is obviously not ideal but should work for what I'm doing at the moment. When I started looking for a replacement front bulkhead I decided the 3D print would be perfectly fine after seeing prices on ebay. My primary goal at the moment is get the buggy put back together in a functional state after that maybe try to revive some battery packs but thats later.
On the thought of batteries my dad had the foresight to replace the Tamiya style connectors with these gold plated connectors but they are not Deans connectors I don't have a picture at the moment no idea what brand they are but they are black with round gold plated pins. Next time I'm digging through the RC stuff I'll take a pic of them maybe someone here can ID them.
I have not done anything with the buggy since the last post. Next step is rebuild the shocks I did buy the larger o rings still need to tear the shocks all apart and see if the smaller o rings are the ones that are leaking and source them.
"preserve bits of our own history" thats 100% the goal. This poor buggy was already run hard and bashed by myself as a kid and as an adult and realizing how much money my dad spent on the RC stuff I have always wanted to simply fix it. Its probably not really worth it financially to fix this buggy for any practical reason.

I have an AnyCubic Kobra 2 neo. I use their PLA with it. It prints ok. Switch holders and some superficial parts. What slicer are you using. Maybe that's my problem.

[RogueIV]

That's cool. I don't think I trust my 3d printer to print parts like that though. What are you using? PLA? Printer?

PLA filament Anycubic Vyper. The 3d print is obviously not ideal but should work for what I'm doing at the moment. When I started looking for a replacement front bulkhead I decided the 3D print would be perfectly fine after seeing prices on ebay. My primary goal at the moment is get the buggy put back together in a functional state after that maybe try to revive some battery packs but thats later.
On the thought of batteries my dad had the foresight to replace the Tamiya style connectors with these gold plated connectors but they are not Deans connectors I don't have a picture at the moment no idea what brand they are but they are black with round gold plated pins. Next time I'm digging through the RC stuff I'll take a pic of them maybe someone here can ID them.
I have not done anything with the buggy since the last post. Next step is rebuild the shocks I did buy the larger o rings still need to tear the shocks all apart and see if the smaller o rings are the ones that are leaking and source them.
"preserve bits of our own history" thats 100% the goal. This poor buggy was already run hard and bashed by myself as a kid and as an adult and realizing how much money my dad spent on the RC stuff I have always wanted to simply fix it. Its probably not really worth it financially to fix this buggy for any practical reason.

I have an AnyCubic Kobra 2 neo. I use their PLA with it. It prints ok. Switch holders and some superficial parts. What slicer are you using. Maybe that's my problem.

Half the battle with 3d printing is getting the settings right and having good, dry filament. It can be pretty durable if everything is done right.