Turbo Optima mid SE

[RichieRich]

I'm currently finishing up a Turbo Optima Mid SE restoration that I started years ago. It's just about finished. The only re-re part I've used is the body set. I think I may replace the front bumper with the re-re version. Is the bumper essentially the same as the original?

[radioactivity]

Though I can't say with absolute certainty, haven't purchased a new Wing Stay ＆ Bumper Set yet, I think it will fit.
Waiting on a couple of the new items to come available and can't determine the pin to pin width of the new front arms.

The new front diff housing and vintage bumper holes align.
So unless the front of the new chassis is wider than the vintage chassis it should fit. I kind of doubt that it is wider.


Chuck

[XLR8]

I'm currently finishing up a Turbo Optima Mid SE restoration that I started years ago. It's just about finished. The only re-re part I've used is the body set. I think I may replace the front bumper with the re-re version. Is the bumper essentially the same as the original?

The hole spacing on the new bumper is 18mm and it's 6.5mm back from leading edge of the recess -- this is identical to the old bumper.
As such, it will mount on an old car with no problem.
I think it's awesome that we can finally buy new bumpers for our old cars.

[RichieRich]

I ordered the re-re bumper parts tree. The bumper does fit. It's a little different than the original but it's 1000 times better than the beat up one I was using. I'm almost finished with the restoration. Just need to finish the wing.

[radioactivity]

Going back to the wheels that I resurrected, I was satisfied with them because of how they were initially.

Then I tried my best to clean and restore. But I did loose the outer "lip", it was just too chewed up.

Recently I ordered the new Optima Mid wheels and have been trying to replicate the textured finish in the center of the wheel.
In the most recent attempt I think I'm fairly close. Right now it's the texture that is most important.
Pretty sure once I get this figured out Kyosho will release the TOMSE Re-Re and they original style wheels will become available

Not yet finished with the new wheel. It only has a light "dusting" of silver and the lip still needs some sanding/polishing.


Chuck

[radioactivity]

Pretty happy with the results.

The sandblasting can be a little tricky.

Chuck

[radioactivity]

Just remembered I have a couple earlier pics of how I masked the outer rim portion of the wheels.

Looking around I found an old tire gauge.

Taken apart

And it fit the wheel snug. I did use an oring between the metal trim ring and the wheel for just a bit more protection.

Then off to be sandblasted. I just used the media I have, 80 grit coal slag.
Pretty aggressive but I backed off about 10 inches and that was just about right.


Chuck

[XLR8]

Those wheels look absolutely superb Chuck.
Just curious; did you ever consider plating them?

[radioactivity]

Thanks Doug

I haven't seriously considered the plating process.
From what little I have gathered...
The process may be vapor deposition that applies the shiny surface.
I would actually like to know more about the process that was originally utilized.
But like my experience with small batch anodizing costs I imagine fees would probably be prohibitive.
From my limited experience with both jelly bean "chrome" wheels and the set of TOMSE "chrome" wheels, neither one holds up very well to any abuse.
It appears as though both have had a greenish primer of some sort under the outer finish.
I removed the "chrome" on the TOMSE wheels I got with alcohol and a cotton ball. They were pretty rough to begin with and they were probably more durable 30+ years ago.
Right now I'm using what's around the house/garage and getting pretty good results I believe. Durable enough for shelf duty.

Chuck

[radioactivity]

About time to update this thread

I've gathered up a few items that I needed to finish the chassis for the car.
The most important piece of the puzzle was the "tank" for the anodizing bath.
I found a fiberglass planter box that fit my needs and is impervious to the sulphuric acid bath.
Made new anode plates and a gallon each of acid, dye and nickel acetate sealant.
Also picked up 2 new super soft buffing wheels and some extra fine polishing compound (green).

Being that I polished the chassis a year ago, a re-polish was in order.
Aluminum starts to oxidize immediately after polishing and I did not want to risk an anodizing failure.
The chassis did not look bad but just a precaution.

[coxbros1]

Yes, and look.at your tribute thread!

[radioactivity]

After a few hours of buffing and cleaning the chassis went into the ano tank, the dye tank and into the sealant tank.
Then it got a thorough cleaning and a light coat of WD40.
Although the pics don't show how the anodizing really looks, I'm pretty darn happy with the results.
I took a completely different approach to the anodizing and it paid off very nicely.
Usually it might take two or more attempts to get a really nice result, I nailed this in one take.
Colder acid temps, higher voltage and lower amperage.

I still have one more chassis to attempt but that might be awhile.

Chuck

[radioactivity]

Been so long I forgot how to post

[radioactivity]

Yes, and look.at your tribute thread!

I just saw it
You did that sad old Kyosho a solid


Chuck

[radioactivity]

Time to start the build finally.
Going good so far.

These pics show the chassis anodizing way better than the previous pics.
The pics above were taken outdoors under cloudy skies and it is usually a good time to shoot shiny objects. Not so much with those pics.

Chuck