Stadium Blitzer rebuild

[juicedcoupe]

I wouldnt argue that. But theyre still really fun to mob around with.

Yeah, without a doubt. Outside of raw performance, the platform has several good traits. The platform is nearly 40 years old and remains popular.

With that said I would like to build an RC10T someday. Dont know alot about them they were next generation from my era.

While the 10T was simply the next generation, its probably fair to say that it was a giant leap forward from what people had been racing. They were good enough that the T2 didn't really change a lot, and they actually share many common or compatible parts.

I have five 10T's, they are awesome trucks.

[XLR8]

I have just one 10T and it's in pieces at the moment. I got it as parts with a Graphite I picked up on ebay a few years ago. Maybe someday....
Anyway, the Blitzer looks great; a nice departure from standard box art.

[juicedcoupe]

Here's both trucks together.

[juicedcoupe]

Got the grill inserts done.

I found some thin black decals leftover from a different body. I cut some 2mm wide strips and placed them in the inserts.

Short of a closeup, I think they turned out well.

[R6cowboy]

Your Blitzers are awesome. Really dig the Schumacher rear tires of choice. Just put some in my cart for a couple of the FXT's.

[XLR8]

The bump-steer really is completely unacceptable. I've flipped the steering blocks but it seems worse - especially on the left side (short steering link).
By chance have you ever tried inverting the servo horn?
I think this may require a kink in the link rods so they will clear the upper plate. Maybe doing this will make it even worse?
If no fix then I reckon I'll run it as is. I just don't want to waste time trying things if they've already been found not to work.
thanks!

EDIT: sorry, I just had another look and I don't think it's possible to invert the horn - while using the stock top plate anyway.

[juicedcoupe]

When you flipped the blocks, did you shorten the hinge pins? If not, they will interfere with the links.

I also used the Tamiya HD servo saver, which has a slightly different geometry than the original.

But to answer the question, it will never be great. At the end of the day, its still a beginners car.

[XLR8]

... At the end of the day, its still a beginners car.

Pft, NOW you tell me.

Flipping the steering blocks should make the links parallel to the A arms so that should help.
I'm gonna go back and try that again.
You mentioned the HD saver and that has me thinking. The kit came with another servo horn which might be a bit shorter. That might reduce bump steer as well. Anyway, I guess it's worth a try.

I have no time to re-engineer this thing, I want to be bashing (and crashing (and trashing)) by the weekend.

Anyway thanks for your words of wisdom.

[RC10th]

If anyone is interested here's a mod I've done to my Blitzer to eliminate bump steer and improve the steering. It really wasn't that hard to do.

https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=41713&hilit=Park+duty&start=15

[XLR8]

If anyone is interested here's a mod I've done to my Blitzer to eliminate bump steer and improve the steering. It really wasn't that hard to do.

https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=41713&hilit=Park+duty&start=15

Yes, I'm definitely interested! Thank you for the link.

I was thinking about adding bell cranks or an A&L style rack system and now that you've already done that and it works, I'll give it a try myself.

One thing I've noted is that if the steering blocks are flipped (ball studs down), the ball cups will collide with the arms just above and behind the hinge pin. If the car handles okay and doesn't require full steering angle to turn, then this probably won't be a problem (I reckon this is most common). I see that your blocks are in the original position so, either way, it solves that problem.

thanks again!!

[juicedcoupe]

One thing I've noted is that if the steering blocks are flipped (ball studs down), the ball cups will collide with the arms just above and behind the hinge pin. If the car handles okay and doesn't require full steering angle to turn, then this probably won't be a problem (I reckon this is most common).

I don't have this problem with either of my trucks. Minor clearancing of the hinge pin was all that was needed.

Both of my trucks have Tamiya ball cups instead of the bulky ends that come with the kit.

I also use the short throw arm on the servo saver. The ball cups have very little clearance from the center of the servo saver. Overall steering travel is reduced but it hasn't caused me any problems.

[juicedcoupe]

I have no time to re-engineer this thing, I want to be bashing (and crashing (and trashing)) by the weekend.

Not to spend more of your money, but I'd highly recommend these AmPro braces if bashing and crashing are in the plans.

I'd also recommend using a M3 tap and machine screws instead of the self tapping screws. Using longer screws and tapped holes will reduce the stress on the plastic and spread the load out.

Otherwise, you can probably expect the chassis to crack where the front attaches.

[XLR8]

Thanks for that. I wasn't aware that Ampro offered chassis braces for this model. I'm definitely gonna investigate those further.
Meanwhile, I'll try to keep the extreme crashing to a minimum.

By the way, while I was installing the rear shock's top screws, I noticed they bottom out before tightening against the brass tube. The kit supplies 15mm long screws but the hole isn't deep enough to accept this length; it leaves about 1 - 1.5mm gap at the tube.
The moment I noticed this I remembered this photo you posted. I wonder if a previous owner tried to force the screw tight against the tube and that created stress that eventually lead to the cracks.

20210720_155048.jpg (52.23 KiB) Viewed 1107 times

20210720_155048.jpg (52.23 KiB) Viewed 1107 times

Anyway, I'm on a self imposed budget with this one (I really don't want to spend anything more on it) so I think I'm gonna make a simple brace from some scrap G10 to span between the two shock mounts - similar to your turn buckles. Not only will this add some much needed bracing, it will take up some or all of the excess screw length. If there's any slop remaining, I will grind the screws to make them a little shorter.

Your suggestion about switching to machine screws is spot on. In fact, I wonder if these cars wouldn't benefit from having all the holes tapped for machine screws - especially when threading into hard plastic. I tend to think those kit supplied self-tapping screws create problems down the road as the plastic ages and becomes more brittle.

Anyway, thanks for the advice.

[juicedcoupe]

I ended up drilling mine through and tapping it. I ran a machine screw through the backside and using a female threaded ball stud to attach the shock.

But yes, the self tapping screws are a problem. The extra stress caused by them makes pieces more prone to cracks.

[mikesofunny]

I had planned to use CVD's on this truck but,.......... I forgot to order them. Anyways, I had received new axles with the outdrives and had the dogbones from my other truck. I used Traxxas blue seal bearings at the wheels as well as Traxxas hexes.

I haven't had any luck finding CVDs/universals for the Blitzer. Is there a set off another car that fits? Thanks!