New from UK, Nitro 10 Mk3 engine help

[ColH]

Hi, new here with a second-hand Schumacher Nitro 10 Mk3.
Engine is starting but not staying running - one issue for sure is fuel running back into tank after priming, if I quick it will run till I remove igniter.
I plan to investigate around the carb this weekend, but basically wondered which board would be best to post on if I end up needing to seek advice?

[RC10th]

Incredible_Serious is the Schumacher Nitro 10 master and I'm sure he will chime in at some point.

One of the most common problems I've seen with nitro cars that have been sitting for a while is the fuel coagulating in the carb. Pull the line off the exhaust, manually open the carb to full throttle and blow into the exhaust line, fuel should pour into the carb, if not it's blocked. If it is blocked turn the high speed screw out till it almost falls out and blow into the exhaust line which fuel should flow freely. It may help to count the number of turns out so you can reset the needle back to its original setting.

Usually if it only runs with the igniter on an dies as soon as you take it off points to a bad glow plug. Replace it with a new (hot) one and see how you go.

Another thing that would be helpful in seeing the condition of the engine is checking the compression when the engine is cold and when it's hot. If the engine has good compression when cold but low compression when hot it's a sign that the engine could be worn out.

[Bakauata]

Hi. I got one of these in a lot of incomplete cars. Actually I’m not sure what MK it is.
The Irvine 15R in it was completely seized. I’ve disassembled it as far I could and it’s been sitting in kerosene for months now. I should check on it one of these days. Fortunately the lot also included an idéntical engine which, I seem to recall, looked quite new.
The car is missing the stearing assembly, so if I try and build it, I might need to adapt the stearing parts from another car.

I haven’t run a nitro engine in many years (and never was very good at it) but, if fuel is returning to the tank, and you feel it’s not normal, maybe your pressure line is blocked from your exhaust, and a vacume is forming inside the tank and sucking the fuel back in?

[Incredible_Serious]

Hi. I got one of these in a lot of incomplete cars. Actually I’m not sure what MK it is.
The Irvine 15R in it was completely seized. I’ve disassembled it as far I could and it’s been sitting in kerosene for months now. I should check on it one of these days. Fortunately the lot also included an idéntical engine which, I seem to recall, looked quite new.
The car is missing the stearing assembly, so if I try and build it, I might need to adapt the stearing parts from another car.

If you throw up a picture, I'm sure we can identify it for you... however, if it's an Irvine engine 2wd buggy / truck / rally car, then it's most likely a mk1 or mk2 - silver chassis plate on mk1, or blue chassis plate on mk2. Of course, it was possible to have a mk3 with an Irvine motor, but it was rarer. Mk3 can be identified easily by the use of solid upper and steering links (unless it was touring / rally), and a longer, thinner, updated gearbox.

Of course, if it is 4wd with an Irvine engine, then it could be a Nitro 4x4... and if it is a flat pan chassis, then it's a Daytona.

I have manuals available for all of these, if you need a reference.... just ask.

Alex

[Bakauata]

Thanks for the info. I’m away for New Years, and would need to dig it out when I get back, but it’s a blue chasis, 2WD truck. So probably it’s a MKII then.
The more info I get the more I want to try and put it together and get it running.
If I recall correctly, it had a battery compartment behind the diff, and it looked fairly beat-up. Is that for radio power, or glowplug ignition (or is it even original to the kit)?

[Incredible_Serious]

Thanks for the info. I’m away for New Years, and would need to dig it out when I get back, but it’s a blue chasis, 2WD truck. So probably it’s a MKII then.
The more info I get the more I want to try and put it together and get it running.
If I recall correctly, it had a battery compartment behind the diff, and it looked fairly beat-up. Is that for radio power, or glowplug ignition (or is it even original to the kit)?

Yes, stock has a battery compartment right at the rear, which was for the receiver battery pack and the on-board glo-plug battery. The lower frame of the battery box also provided strengthening for the rear of the chassis, which was quite exposed otherwise.

If you PM me an e-mail address, I can send you through a copy of the Nitro 10 mk.2 manual.

Alex

[Bakauata]

Will do. Hopefully the OP is getting something out of this since I’m starting to feel I high jacked the thread.