RC10 CE Set Up and Race Discussion

[JK Racing]

I dont have any rebars, both indoor tracks close to me, no one uses them. Proline or JC tires almost exclusively. Now the outdoor bluegroove track I go to once in a while, I see rebars alot, and their new tire, the vector.

[Charlie don't surf]

I loved the fronts, and they say a set of Orange Rebars with 1/2 the tread height removed they're a whole different tire- they had great forward bite when I used them, but no real side holding and too squirmy-

[JK Racing]

ran both cars today, a Jeepzz armed car and the CE. With the small changes I did on the CE (shock oils and droop) the car was much happier than before. The Jeepzz car was a little tougher to drive, only put one pack on it and went back to the CE for racing. I still need a bit more high speed turn in, I have a couple more things to adjust, it was very drivable as is, just a rusty old guy behind the controller.

Oh...I ran it in stock tonight, brushed 27T, think I over geared it a touch, 23/87. Going to drop it to 20/81, maybe 19. Motor was pretty hot, punchy enough, but I know it wasnt topping out on the strraight away. Yes, lipo/27T is faster than 17.5 blinky

[JK Racing]

Finally got the car driving the way I like it Moved the top of the front shocks to the outside hole (stood the shocks up). Cars turns in with authority, rear end stays planted very well too. Only change it needed.

Ended up qualifing 2nd overall in blinky stock (yes, I am still running a 27T brushed). Moved my gearing to 19/78, it moved the motor almost against the tranny and gave me just that little touch move rear bite. In the main I was getting pretty beat up by the plastic cars pretty hard in the first few laps. But I battled back up to 4th and stayed there for the rest of the race.

I decided to run my car 2 races later in my Mod Buggy main, no changes other than a fresh battery (more on that in a bit). I wasnt happy with my 22, it was really squirrely. I didnt have a full size pack charged, so I pulled the shorty pack out of the 22 and bolted it into the goldie. Wow...pushed the pack full forward against the servo and secured it so it wouldnt move around. Car was even better than before, lots of pop off the jumps and changed directions really well. My best lap was over a second faster than just 2 races before. Just imagine once I finally pull the trigger and drop a brushless in there, without motor fade (well, not as much as running a 7 minute main with a brushed stock motor that hasnt been cut in quite a few runs, I dont have a lathe anymore).

[JHarris]

Down here in sunny Florida the blinky guys run the smallest spur and biggest pinion they can fit on the car. They all want more! Maybe you'll have a little advantage since you have the 2.25 tranny. How cool would it be to see blinky guys switching to the RC10 so they could run the lower numerical ratio transmissions!

[Lonestar]

Down here in sunny Florida the blinky guys run the smallest spur and biggest pinion they can fit on the car.

The old stock days are back

[JK Racing]

my "long arm" car run 30/66...gotta love the Kimbrough pan car gears

I need to take a quick picture, the spur is barely larger than the old stealth slipper. 30 is about the smallest pinion I can get on there too. I should fix my temp gun and play with how high I can go, we have about a 100 foot straight.

[Phin]

RPM should get on making a B4 2.26 ratio conversion case with a 23T top shaft....

...then I can use that top shaft in my 1.96 stealth conversion case and use a B4 slipper.

[JK Racing]

did they ever make a Hydra drive top shaft for that conversion box? that would be problem solved

[Charlie don't surf]

did they ever make a Hydra drive top shaft for that conversion box? that would be problem solved

For the 1.96? No hydra- but you can still press the gear off and replace it on an b4 shaft (not the new hardened gear version shaft though)

[scr8p]

in my red tub build for the 2010 v-nats (which is still unfinished and i didn't get there anyway) i have a 1.96 rpm trans in it because i knew i wouldn't run anything more than a 17.5 in it. hoopty had one in stinky pinky at the '08 nats and it was quick.

[socal jared]

My current raceday setup for my OIN build.
-Extended wheel base w/truck nose and using customworks rear wheel spacers.
-V2 shocks with #2 pistons and 2 limiters, 30wt all around, green spring rear, brown up front.
-stealth w/ V2 slipper
-Reedy shorty lipo

I am fighting some rotation in the rear and will prob go up to 35-40wt in the rear to reduce some bounce.

[JK Racing]

my final set up (works for my driving style and track):

Front end -

Proline MC Scrubs, mounted on OG Proline narrow front rims, 1/2 full rear foam (tire is firm)
.89 B3 gold shocks, AE black springs, #2 pistons, 35 wgt losi oil
Outside on arm, outside on shock tower
tie rod in the only spot it can go
-1 camber, very slight toe out
arms level

Rear end -

Proline MC Suburbs, mounted on OG Proline 1/4" 2.2 wheels, AKA CC red foam
1.32 shocks w/1.02 shafts, single white limiter inside, AE green springs, #2 pistons, 35 wgt losi oil
Outside on arm, #3 hole in on Worlds tower
tie rod standard on carrier, all the way inside on bulkhead (under wing tube)
-1 camber, 1.5 arm mounts, 1.5 carriers
arms slightly above level
MIP 1/4" cvds

Other -

27T revenge of monster stock, 19/78
B4 top shaft, double slipper set up
Novak Tempest Pro speedo
Futaba 9401 servo, Houge bearing steering
Spektrum 3001 pro receiver
AMB transponder, case removed, covered in shrink wrap
Turnigy 5400 nanotech 50C battery OR Revtech 4000 60C shorty pack
worlds battery strap, cut down stock battery cup
B4 wing mounts, Protech I body
chassis machined worlds style
car is slightly raked rear to front (rear a touch higher)

I am pulling the brushed system and putting my brushless system in later today, pics afterwards.

[JK Racing]

Here is it in all its glory:



Long arm car is the next one to dial in:



Brothers:

[JK Racing]

my "long arm" car run 30/66...gotta love the Kimbrough pan car gears