Hey guys - thanks for all the great comments - makes it worth it!
Secondly - apologies for not getting back to you sooner with some answers!
Hope I get em all for ya!
1) Modern wheels on the old JRX2 - easy on the front - just a spacer before the wheel to put it out to current width. I also put the wheel nut on backwards! I do this because even the modern "thin" wheel nuts available dont really get a good part of the nyloc section of the nut on them to secure it. If you put em on backwards - well - its all nyloc and then a bit of thread - alot "safer" - and kinda looks cool depending on the wheel. As for the rear - pretty much a direct fit on the Pro - because of the "H-arm" suspension. The 5 link however is a different prospect altogether. You need to space out the wheel axle as far as you can get it without binding. Then you need to also put a spacer between the screw and the lower 5 link control arm on the hub. This allows the wheel to "JUST" miss the control arms through the movement of the suspension without rubbing on the upper and lower control arms. No spacers means the tires are hitting the control arms before you even finish up tightening the wheel nut!! If you are interested - I will see if I can grab a few pics of what I have done for you all.
2) Yep - Trinity Nerfs are on the 5 link, along with the double bearing diff, ball raced steering, RPM Standoffs, RPM front knuckles and uprights and a few other funky mods. I do also run the swept front arms - mainly to get some steering - this thing "hangs on" like nothing else and understeers like a pig with standard arms!! (I actually like alot of steering - so most people would probably think its fine!!). It really lays dowm the power extremely well, the front end is well behind the rear in terms of generating grip in standard format. I havent really run anything wilder than a 17.5 brushless in her - but it really handled that quite easily. The car does indeed look alot better on the "Old School" rims - however handles a hell of a lot better ont eh modern stuff - although cutting down the modern tires does work a charm..............................
3) Modern tires: In fact - Losi still sell a 2.0 inch tire -:
http://www.losipartshouse.com/servlet/Categories And they grip SUPERBLY too!! That being said - there are other tread patterns that work better and dont wear as fast. This can only be acheived by cutting the tires in half, removing a section of the tire and re-glueing them. It is important when you cut the tyres that you cut PERFECTLY staight across the main tread of the tire - however you need to "taper" the cut when you get to the sidewall - you need to taper in towards the rim - so that when you glue tht tyre back together it maintains its "round"shape and mounts properly to the rim. Again - if interested - I will take some pics of the taper and measure the section of what needs to be taken out. REST ASSURED that if you use high quality tyre glue (I use the "much more" brand - super thin tyre glue) the tyres WILL NOT come apart. You need to "tack" sections of the tyre at a time when you are putting it back together. When you are happy that you have it as "round" as you like - the run a decent amount of glue around the join on the INSIDE of the tyre. The super thin glue will seep into all the small gaps and make a very strong joint. Then it is simply a case of glueing the tyre on 2 inch rim. After all that - I bet you buy the Losi tyres above!!
Please feel free to fire any questions - I will do my best to answer them in a timely manner. The PRO is most definately my favourite car to run - I have run down to a 10.5 on stock "turbo" timing with it - and it is a real WEAPON. Last time I ran it - I was pulling wheelstands halfway down the straight and pretty much able to just hang on to modern cars as well through the corners.......but not quite.......our hobby has come a long way.
Cheers
Darryn
I read nerf bars, ball bearing.. and skipped to the next paragraph 
. Sorry.
I tend to dribble on - so I cant say I blame you for moving to the next paragraph!! 
