Re-Darkening Steel Parts
- CamplinP
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Re-Darkening Steel Parts
I was cleaning out one of my gun safes the other day and found my blueing touch-up pen for steel barrels. I had an idea to try it on some turnbuckles and screws I had stripped the rust off of. I went over the parts with my dremel with a soft wire brush. Then I degreased the parts with motor cleaner. After a couple of passes with the pen, viola. It takes a few seconds for the reaction and multiple passes deepens the color. After a few minutes, I lightly hand buffed the excess off and coated them in Break Free. The more you buff the more shine you will get. I went over one with the dremel again and it was almost a gloss black. I had a jar of "cold" blueing liquid at one time. I am going to get some more and see if it does the same thing so I can bulk dip some parts.
Any good gun store has these. Before and after screws.
Any good gun store has these. Before and after screws.
The Fox, Falcon, 9 RC10s black/gold/graph, Optima Mid SE EXT, Losi XXXT, B3, B4, 3 T4s, Evader BX, Evader ST, Buggy Champ '09, Sand Scorcher '10, RC10T, RC10DS
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Re: Re-Darkening Steel Parts
I also use the Birchwood Casey products, and they work great. The only difference is I heat the parts lightly after I blacken them, and drop them in oil. I don't heat them enough to anneal them, only enough to drive the water out of the metal. Allowing them to cool in the oil allows them to draw the oil into the pores (instead of atmospheric moisture) and they become much more resistant to rusting over time. -Jeff
- CamplinP
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Re: Re-Darkening Steel Parts
Good point, I forgot about that. I ironically warm up barrel parts when I use the liquid "cold" blue. With the pen I have not seen any benefit from it. Maybe the parts are smaller so it is harder to tell.
The Fox, Falcon, 9 RC10s black/gold/graph, Optima Mid SE EXT, Losi XXXT, B3, B4, 3 T4s, Evader BX, Evader ST, Buggy Champ '09, Sand Scorcher '10, RC10T, RC10DS
- scr8p
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- Coelacanth
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Re: Re-Darkening Steel Parts
If nobody's looking, I use Sharpie. 

Completed projects: CYANide Onroad Optima | Zebra Gold Optima | Barney Optima | OptiMutt RWD Mid
Gallery - Coel's Stalls: Marui Galaxy & Shogun Resto-Mods | FrankenBuff AYK Buffalo | 1987 Buick GNX RC12L3
Gallery - Coel's Stalls: Marui Galaxy & Shogun Resto-Mods | FrankenBuff AYK Buffalo | 1987 Buick GNX RC12L3
Re: Re-Darkening Steel Parts
i find that the sharpie dries a dark purple. gotta love when people sharpie the scratches in graphite chassis. purple streaks.Coelacanth wrote:If nobody's looking, I use Sharpie.
- GoMachV
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Re: Re-Darkening Steel Parts
So your the one....Coelacanth wrote:If nobody's looking, I use Sharpie.
Lol
- CamplinP
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Re: Re-Darkening Steel Parts
Yes, that too. Just a tip for the hard to find hardware, ball studs and turnbuckles. I do not take the time for standard screws.scr8p wrote:i use fastener express.![]()
The Fox, Falcon, 9 RC10s black/gold/graph, Optima Mid SE EXT, Losi XXXT, B3, B4, 3 T4s, Evader BX, Evader ST, Buggy Champ '09, Sand Scorcher '10, RC10T, RC10DS
- Coelacanth
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Re: Re-Darkening Steel Parts
You know where it works great? After you cut your own carbon fiber parts, color all the cut edges with black Sharpie, then seal the edges with Krazy Glue. Looks great and stops them from delaminating. I know people already know about the Krazy Glue edge treatment, but I can't remember where I saw the tip about coloring the cut edges with Sharpie first...it's a good tip, and looks much better than bare cut edges.kaiser wrote:i find that the sharpie dries a dark purple. gotta love when people sharpie the scratches in graphite chassis. purple streaks.Coelacanth wrote:If nobody's looking, I use Sharpie.

Completed projects: CYANide Onroad Optima | Zebra Gold Optima | Barney Optima | OptiMutt RWD Mid
Gallery - Coel's Stalls: Marui Galaxy & Shogun Resto-Mods | FrankenBuff AYK Buffalo | 1987 Buick GNX RC12L3
Gallery - Coel's Stalls: Marui Galaxy & Shogun Resto-Mods | FrankenBuff AYK Buffalo | 1987 Buick GNX RC12L3
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