RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Yup if you consider the solid axle is just like a stock solid axle car, the watts link and side links provide the best articulation with the least compromise. Pretty neat.

Synthetic is better all around. Walmart has the best price for mobile 1 in my area. I change oil about 6000 miles or every year whatever comes first.

I do build cars/hotrods/etc as a hobby, but I don't really detail other than the usual wash and wax and vaccum, once the cars are cleaned up. For the hunks of junks and wrecks that I pull out of the yard covered with lots and lots of crap/mildew/mold, etc, I use a few things. These are all GM vehicl...

They should be the same thickness as the shock towers, no? Which is 0.093".

I believe the top diff is for a kyosho model, I just modified a pair of diff hubs for Jeremy that looked identical. I think thorp would be a split hub design with three screws. see this info: https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=82&t=43787 the white gear diff below that looks like a traxxas ...

Most of these parts would only be 30-70% as strong depending on how it's made and where it is. If you can get a real injection molded piece, I would advise to get it. If you are a really good driver with smooth lines and not much traffic they would hold up. I would not suggest printed shock towers, ...

nothing wrong with using a noseplate, either. plenty of them around to be found.

K&s 83060 is what I use. 3/16" x .049" wall tubing.

any electronic speed controllers can be used with modern batteries and brushed motors. The only issues to watch for are the input voltage is within the specs of the controller, and to use caution or simple voltage alarms to avoid over-discharging lipo batteries. The last issue is to be aware that th...

Well the shock tower is unfortunate. Probably the best you can do to repair that is to get two flat plates and some clamps. Scrub the part really really good and wash with isopropyl alcohol. Apply thin crazy glue inside the joint and then clamp tightly together between the plates. HOWEVER, before pl...

Yes tecnacraft. Looks great!

it appears to be a Tamiya MK7 type 1/12 scale onroad chassis. the giveways are the tamiya style ballcups and front steering arms and servo saver.

wow I guess I can see the future! How the heck did my response get above the question?

Yup early spine plate. That's really cool. I wouldn't be too disheartened with the discolorations. It was like that from the molds, and every car that has seen sunlight will have it. The plastics we're always more of a bone color.

Spur gear changes were pretty much the norm, so that's pretty easy to lose the original. The original had a smaller number of holes and was available for quite a long time since it was the same up until the stealth came out. If you keep you eyes peeled you should be able to find a white one somewher...