RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

This is a tribute to the great line of RC10 buggies produced since 1984-2009 (RC10 - RC10B4). This is a work in progress. It will take some time and help from fellow members, as we all learn new things about the different versions. So please be patient! I will also be updating completed cars as new ...

EDINGER RC10 Kit numbers used for the early RC10's 6000 basic kit, less all electrical 6010 full kit, less battery 6012 full kit, less battery, body, wing 6016 full kit, ball bearings, less battery 6020 full kit, with 6-cell battery pack The Manual https://img2.associatedelectrics.com/pdf/cars_and_...

THE RC10CE (CHAMPIONSHIP EDITION) Kit # 6011 The later CE also used all the original RC10 kit numbers (6000,6010,6012,6016 and 6020) as the original RC10 was fazed out. This all happened about when the Team Car appeared and the CE became the entry level car. There was also a late CE stealth kit # 6...

Just picked this one up today

Hi guys. This is my first post on this board. A brief history about myself... I have been around RC since childhood like most of you. The Grasshopper being my 1st real car followed by the RC10 later. Years later after having kids, I decided to get into the hobby again in the late 90's with monster t...

I picked up two of these bodies with a collection I bought recently and didn't think much about them. I thought "big deal, 6160 protech bodies" there is a never ending supply on ebay for around $15 right? So today I pulled one out (they were carefully wrapped in tissue paper) for a street ...

Those are the earlier ones, much better quality and thicker lexan than the late bodies. Probably more of those made over the years than any other body, but also more of them destroyed lol. Good body, deserves to be on a special build. If your gonna build a runner use a cheap new body and keep this a...

I will say that if someone offered one for sale at $500 I would not be a buyer, and yet I wouldn’t sell mine for $700. I am a terrible flipper lol. You're killing capitalism!!! :D I hear what you are saying, and your experience is what I was looking for. You have confirmed that what I am looking at...

GoMachV wrote: ↑Tue Apr 06, 2021 3:41 pm I will say that if someone offered one for sale at $500 I would not be a buyer, and yet I wouldn’t sell mine for $700.

I completely agree with this.

Hey guys (and gals) Any tips on removing paint from the white nylon plastic used on the RC10. I am getting one someone has painted all the suspension and wheels. It looks like a nightmare but going to give it a shot. Thanks in advance. Nylon is a pretty strong plastic. I have found that at least wi...

Thanks for the add, I have recently acquired a few RC10's and am deciding how to proceed, as to restoration or not or upgrading electronics and just having fun. One of my recent acquisitions is a very original but in mostly poor shape A stamp car. I will be looking for help as to how much of what I...

Citristrip works as well.

I normally use Citristrip to remove the bulk of it, then soak in acetone to remove tougher spots.

Hi and welcome , as above any restoration starts with stripping , cleaning and looking for worn or broken parts , it's kind of like building a kit ,sort of part of the ritual .

It's what it says, a 6160 Pro Tech body. Its for a short arm, gold pan.

If it feels thin, brittle, and crack prone, it might be original. If not, it's probably a re-re.

I'm about to order a Boki copy for my short arm car.

Some people go for the rarity, and the rere classic production was the lowest production run of any, and I suspect the rere worlds was the second lowest. It just depends on what the collector is looking for.