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So I tore project Free frog apart to find that most everything was shot.
I had a few bits from it that were still good though. I also had a all new built Frog roller with a working Thorp dif. in it that had about a 1/4 of dust on it. Frogs and Brats are not worth squat now so let the fun begin..
I used some old Rc10 shocks and made some custom stuff. (Kyosho front tower and c.f.
rear shock mounts).Used the free Frog skid plate and Battery lid as these are the 1st things to get trashed anyway.
Stock wheels/tires just for show.
I am looking for those front HPI buggy 5 star front rims if anyone knows a place to get them..Sorry about the crappy body. I did not want to cut a new one in half! Maybe I will swing for a re-pop soon.

Does anyone know if the new Frog hop up cvd's will fit a Thorp dif.?
I would hate to loose one of those dogbones.
Also does anyone have an idea for the front bumper? I would like to do a small lip type (newer buggy style) but can't think of one wide enough to attach to the mount.

Not sure if the new CVDs will fit a Thorp. For the bumper, you could grab one of the CRP bumpers on ebay and trim the posts off.

The old YR-4 bumper should do, or one of Parma's kydex bumpers. I used one on my hotdog buggy.
Basically it's a flat piece of nylon-like plastic you heat up with a lighter where you want it to fold up , form it, keep it in shape while cooling down, and voila, ready.

oh for t the cvd's: I'm far from an expert on frogs but didn't the old frog have different ball-ends? Octogonal shaped instead of the now commom sphere with crosspin?

It did. The Thorp I have has a crosspin setup. The re-frogs went to cross pin.
I have a re-re so I am just going to take a cvd out and try it. I just wanted to see if anyone knew before I pulled apart the re-frog.I will post if they fit.
I forgot about the old kydex trick. I live about 5 miles from the old Rohm and Hass plant (the people who brought us Kydex). When I was a kid we would get tons of free scrap Kydex... We used that stuff for everything.Wish I had saved some

I spent last night trying to get rid of the bump steer on this setup.. No matter what I tried it won't stop toeing in. I tested just about every height on the knuckle and servo saver to no avail. I ended up extending the saver arm to drop the links more toward the front of the car. This gave me very slight toe-in fully extend (rebound) and slight toe-in fully compressed.
I think dropping the link on the knuckle would fix this but a I can't do that without running the ballcup under the knuckle. That messes up everything. Hope that was clear..
It's early and I need a cup of coffee.

I raced the Frog at the vonats and I had the stock steering setup with exception of replacing the stock servo saver with a Kimbrouugh.... Geometry stayed the same however. I didn't notice much problem as far as bump steer goes, so don't lose too much sleep on it. My biggest problem was front suspension articulation.... Running the absolute lightest AE spring still made the car feel too stiff in the front. Ended up using 10 wt losi oil to lighten it up further. If the bottom of the shocks could in some way be mounted more inboard on the arms, it would fix this problem..... You will also need to make some kind of sway bar for the rear. That would help dramatically.

The 2.2" rubber on this car gave me LOTS of traction! Lots of steering (probably too much) and it tended to traction roll at the end of the straights.... Probably could have trimmed the knobbies back a bit to help, but I was too busy shooting the crap with all of my vintage bretheren between rounds!! I also learned that the Torque ratio (smallest pinion) was the way to go with a 27T stock racing motor. All in all, a very fun car to race.

Sway bar is in the works.I might put the stock system back on to compare it to what I have now.I think making the links longer and the increased travel is the problem.
I guess if I really wanted ,I could fab up a bellcrank setup but I agree it's probably overkill for a Frog.. I noticed that the front is stiff too. I have asc silver springs on now.Going to try that 10wt oil and see if it helps. I might take a drill to the pistons too.

If I make it to the nats I will be running my hopped up sassy chassis Hot Shot. I don't know why they let 4wd run with 2wd in classic but why not run 4wd if you have one.
Thanks

I plan on running a modified Supershot in the 4wd class....

Check this link out for a nice frog....

http://pmmc.hp.infoseek.co.jp/frog/frog2.html

bngiles wrote:I plan on running a modified Supershot in the 4wd class....

Check this link out for a nice frog....

http://pmmc.hp.infoseek.co.jp/frog/frog2.html

I would like to see that in English that thing looks great what trans did he use?

Check this link out for a nice frog....

http://pmmc.hp.infoseek.co.jp/frog/frog2.html

WOW I WISH THERE WAS A DROOL SMILIE..
If you copy the link into Google you can translate the page (sort of).

I plan on running a modified Supershot in the 4wd class....
You got to post some pics of that bad boy

Well, yes!

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=82669&sid=22001

and

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=7724&hilit=supershot


I still need to paint and slap the brushless in it. Yes, there will be a painted driver in it as well.

That's just flat out tasty .

I need to figure out a way to mount my s.shot body on my Sassy car.

Man,I need to make it there just so we can have a few shots on the track at the same time.

If Civil comes, that will be 3....