RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

So all of this talk of rc10's had me itching to find/build a gold pan. It's funny how things work out..I bought a 6 gear runner off Ebay last week. I also had a running post "rc10wanted" on another forum. Well,after I got the ebay car I got an offer I could not pass on from the "wanted" post. So here we have dual projects going on. The 6 gear car has the A stamp but is a darker gold.The other car is the light gold with no stamp. I have a few questions.

1.Should I not run the lethal weapon trans? I know its rare but it's sooo cool . I am worried that if I snap a belt I won't be able to find one.
2. On the l.w. car the front is extended.Is this a popular mod? Does It really make the car handle better? I don't like how it looks.
3. The rear upper camber link (inner) is re-drilled to place the link under the wing mount. Making the link a lot longer.Should I put it back to one of the stock holes?
4. What is the best way to get the paint off without messing up the anodising?
Thanks in advance.
JD

On the paint, use paint thinner. It won't touch the anodizing. On the rear camber link, just leave it. It will handle better with the longer links. As far as the wheel base problem, put it back the way the factory made it. They knew what worked and the rc10 always stayed the same length. Driving? Drive the crap out of it! Those parts were made to be used, not put in a display. I think that the only parts not to use are the NIB parts. Everything else is there for us to play with. Have fun with it!

Sweet.
Yea just have a look at my Tamiya threads and you will see I am not afraid to run rare parts.
I know more about the Tamy stuff so I am not sure of the durability of the belt trans (other than it's cool).
Thanks

uh oh................. another one that think every rc vehicle needs to be used. j/k

try sending daryl ( http://www.factoryworks.com ) an e-mail to see what parts he has left for that trans. he might not any, but it's worth a shot.

if your gonna use it, use it. just don't torture it. you'll get more for it if it's in nice shape and works, instead of beat to hell and broke if you go to sell it down the road.

not to mention, you could probably get $75 on up for that trans right now, and go pick up a used stealth off ebay for less than $40 hammer on.

LOL...Yea that's what I was thinking too. I guess I will contact him and see if there are any parts left. If the belt drive was better than the stealth we would still be running them. I guess some sort of slipper would help save it. I have no idea what parts are needed to make that work.
All good fun. I am glad I have an rc10 again.

BTW. I was over my mom and dads tonight (BMX post has me looking for my old Haro bike) and I found one of my rear rc10 wheel/tire from 20 years ago. I will post a pic. I had no idea I had that over there. Its in like new condition. weird... I am kicking around the idea of turning the A car into a "early style" runner. It will be cool to have a part off my 1st rc10 on there.

daryl has belts left.

Anyone know who made that "works" battery strap?

factory works

Doh!
I did not read the entire brace...
Wow,I need a cup of coffee.A little slow today I am...
Thanks.

Does your A&L transmission have the slipper unit?

I got a spare belt from darryl , but with the gentle moters I use and the slipper installed it doesn't look like it's really going to be needed.

If you don't have the slipper, loosen up the diff to slip ever so light under brute force. No too much or it will heat up and melt the pulley!

No slipper. I would like to find one that works.A hydradrive with this setup would be sweet too.Guess I will need to dig through the parts bin. I dont like running loose diffs.
Thanks

I got the 6 gear car cleaned up and running. I might put the old tekin 700 from the a&l car in it. The lrp 7.1 is the only older esc I have.The car runs great! The old revtech mod motor that came with it still works. The thinner worked super for getting the paint off. I need to find some old wheels/tires and a new gear cover.

That cleaned up well!!

Thanks.
Getting the paint off the shock tower was the hardest part.

I would like to protect the chassis from getting any more scratched than it is now.
I wonder if I can use that clear contact paper?

AE sell something made by 3M that's a real thick clear tape. Its tuff as nails. It come in a big sheet and there's enough to do 3 cars.