RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

I've been working on converting my old rc10 in into a rc10t. I still have the old bugger steering set up and have been looking to upgrade. I'm a novice and read some about the ball bearing bellcranks (?)

would the steering set up out of RC10 T2 be an upgrade? it isnt a ball bearing set up, but appears more substantial than the stock buggy.

wow, should have checked my spelling. What i meant to say.......

i'm converting my old rc10 gold pan buggy to a truck and want to know if the RC10 T2 steering setup (servo saver) would be an upgrade over the stock BUGGY servo saver. The T2 setup appears more substantial. Or would i be better off bucking up for the ball bearing systems i've seen on ebay.

any thoughts?

Thats cool.The original buggy steering set up is a bugger

Yes,T2 steering bellcranks work way better than the rc10 stock ones.Don

If you're making it a proper RC10T use RC10T bellcranks, they are longer to suit the nose plate mounted in the forward position. If you use RC10T2 ones you'll get weird ackerman..

thanks bugle, thats the type of info i need. i asked about the T2 only bc i found a complete set on ebay. I'll work on the rc10t setup.

Just a quick update. One of this boards members saw my post, had pity on me, and hooked me up with the proper RC10T servo saver / steering setup.

A BIG THANK YOU.... to my new friend a01butal !!!!!!

this board and the people are incredible. I've almost completed my rc10 to rc10t conversion, now onto another vintage rebuild.

thanks again a01butal

When I first got my 10T running, I opted to use truck steering at first (composite craft ball bearing-type). I quickly found that, even when using a fairly strong servo (hitec 5625MG), that my 10T didn't steer very well, and I wasn't even using a servo saver. It seemed as though the truck steering, with the long bellcranks, puts too much leverage on the servo.

I later countersunk the two forward steering holes on the noseplate and installed the MIP RC10GT steering bellcranks (buggy/T2 length) there, and used two short screws to bolt the noseplate to the chassis, through the rear two steering holes. This way the wheelbase is normal and the crash tubes don't require modification either.

I'm much happier with this setup; it steers much better and doesn't bind.

You can see pics of the setup here:

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=9494

That's only a problem with the composite craft setup though, the standard bellcrank has servo arm mounting holes further out.