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so i have been looking at an rc10 chassis and noticed that it might be possible to build a mid motor rc10, so here are some sneak pics of the start of this project, input is always appreciated.

here are the major issues
-plans are to ad material to the motor mount to bolt it to the chassis to get rid of the flex, kind of how it was stock
-also the side of the tub will need to be trimmed to make room for a motor sticking out the side
-the only Holes that dont line up are:
---------- the holes for the trans case,
---------- i have two options:
-------drill new holes.... risky... the old holes are very close, i could always weld up the old ones so i can drill new ones next to them "i have all the equipment for this including a mill and tig"
--or---make an adapter plate for the chassis

i dont know if im the first to do this but i am very excited to finish this and see how well it performs in mid air!!


-also im looking for a junk chassis to cut up, i dont wana cut up the ones i have,, hopefully some one has one that doesnt have any giant holes cut in it that they are willing to off load for this wicked project

when swapped around, new holes need to be drilled between the 4 6 gear trans holes for the bulkhead. you can't just use the rear trans holes. if you don't locate the bulkhead in the correct place, the bottoms of the shocks will be too far away from the a-arms when you go to mount them. you'd have to add a bunch of spacers between the shock and arm for the shocks to be straight.

bolt 2 chassis together through the arm mount holes. one facing one way, and one the other way. now you have your drill template.

Well, since you already have a donor car, you could just get the Tekin mid-motor conversion kit. I'm sure there's one on ebay right now. Nice project, though.

scr8p wrote: you'd have to add a bunch of spacers between the shock and arm for the shocks to be straight.

what if you space them at the top like a losi???

im going to locate the trans using a top brace, then flip a drill template to find the right holes.....or build a plate that bolts to the trans then the chassis usiing the 6gear holes, spacing the trans up .060?????

they'd need to be spaced towards the front, not the rear. the only other option would be to mount the shocks on the front side of the shock tower, but then the shock might interfere with the tie rod.

lowrydesign wrote:or build a plate that bolts to the trans then the chassis usiing the 6gear holes, spacing the trans up .060?????

there's no need to make this a complicated thing. just screw 2 chassis together as i said above. drill and countersink 6 holes and your done. except for whatever bracing your gonna need/make.

scr8p wrote:. just screw 2 chassis together as i said above. drill and countersink 6 holes and your done. except for whatever bracing your gonna need/make.

k i will try that out.

thanks

It's fun to cut up a car.....

At least your motor will be spinning in the correct direction

every thing has been drilled and cut, all that is left to do is figure out a battery mounting solution and crash tubes ..... any one have any ideas??????

thanks scr8p for the input..

looks good dude.

how about using the 3x3 battery saddles for the b44?

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSZC5&P=Z
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSZB0&P=Z
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTPG3&P=Z

or the carbon straps.......

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSZA9&P=SM

they'll require a little more cutting and drilling, though.

scr8p.. is a 3x3 better than a 6x1 pack for weight distribution? or is it cause a 6x1 is a tight fit?....

how about pro choice Velcro straps??

lipo packs transverse? like xfactory....

Another option could be to put a battery down the centre then use B3 steering bellcranks and servo mounting position.

Hows the torsional rigidity?

torsional rigidity is ok.. i might have cut a bit too much off the sides..... oh well....
i did think of the b3 steering but was not sure what it looks like.....

************update************

testing occurred today and i must say it is way awesome!!!!
it goes flat as soon as its in air!!! just like a 4wd..
not as much of a touchy gyro feel as a 4wd but way more balanced in air than stock configuration

i can only imagine this thing with a brushless and a lipo
..............

-next comes a set of worlds length arms, truck front shocks and shock tower, mip b44 cvd's, lunsford turnbuckle, and rpm rear big bearing carriers

lowrydesign wrote:************update************

testing occurred today and i must say it is way awesome!!!!
it goes flat as soon as its in air!!! just like a 4wd..
not as much of a touchy gyro feel as a 4wd but way more balanced in air than stock configuration

i can only imagine this thing with a brushless and a lipo
..............

-next comes a set of worlds length arms, truck front shocks and shock tower, mip b44 cvd's, lunsford turnbuckle, and rpm rear big bearing carriers

Nice lookin' rig. It's hard to say in advance how the balance will be on a car in flight. Kinda like
a chaos theory. I can only imagine what companies go thru when designing a new 2-wheel drive
buggy. I'm working on a jump car right now so I've been doing a lot of thinking about it. Gyro info
would be appreciated if anyone has it. I'm working with an AE graphite chassis and building out. It's ugly as sin, but a sweet gal...and a helluva good cook. Anyway, nice rig.

Well I took part in the testing, and I can honestly say that, even in its earliest form, that this thing just flat-out blows away the team car as far as steering and jumping go.

I can't wait to see how it handles with some long front and rear arms...it's the f*#@ing catalina wine mixer!