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i promise ill do searches and try not to ask to many dumb questions but here goes, has anyone used the gun blueing stuff to color the tierods and screws? any other ways?

Yes, atleast I think I did. I'm assuming that it's the same stuff for darkening new railroad tracks to give it that aged looked. With the stuff I used, a majority of the color rubs off leaving it with an inconsistent finish. Prior to doing this, I took the parts down to bare metal.

I hope you have better results.

Regards,
highwayracer

You can use gun blueing to give them a finish similar to the original but it will be somewhat inconsistent. The other way is to heat the tie-rods with a flame until almost red hot, then dip them into light duty oil. Be careful as to how hot you get them before dipping into the oil as it will burst into flames if the tie-rod is too hot. It will take a couple tries before getting it just right but once you get it right they will come out looking almost like they did when they were new.

Daddeo wrote:The other way is to heat the tie-rods with a flame until almost red hot, then dip them into light duty oil. Be careful as to how hot you get them before dipping into the oil as it will burst into flames if the tie-rod is too hot. It will take a couple tries before getting it just right but once you get it right they will come out looking almost like they did when they were new.

If these parts are medium to low carbon steel (if they are black without paint or coating they probably are) and are going to be used for a runner, they need to be tempered after being quenched in oil. Otherwise they will be brittle and snap easily.

Quick test, run a file across a cooled off part after the quenching in oil. If the file bites in, grabs, you don’t have an issue. If it just seems to slide, and you want to run it, strongly suggest a temper.

Depends on the exact steel, but in general for home tempering, heat the parts to 400-500F for perhaps 2-4 hours. The goal is to get the file to grab a little, but be difficult to keep moving.

Note this may impact the color some, but I think you will like it, this is almost undoubtedly how they were made to begin with, pretty standard quality fastener process. Except the pros would temper at a higher temp for less time.

The temperature before dipping in the oil should be the 1500-1650F range. And yes, be damn careful.

Good info on the tempering but I was just thinking restoration shelfer type look .

Agreed, no need for a shelfer. Only really needed for a runner.
But I also suspect, not positive, that it will get the color a little closer as well. And fairly easy to do.

Probably pretty obvious, in any event I would suggest a test piece first to get the hang of it, see what color ya get.

Cheers!

thanks, i have a bunch of tierods off a jrx2 that are pretty rusty, ill glass bead them to bare metal and try a few different ways, these wont be run so im not to worried about breaking them.

I soaked mine in WD-40 for a night and then hand cleaned them (all 4 rc's worth!) with a rag. Got almost all the rust off and most look like new.

try some automotive rust converter, they need to rust, then take a model car paint brush, and brush on a little it turns the rust black and seals it.

hadnt thought of the wd40 or the rust converter, both good ideas, thanks.

wondering what is the best gun blue to use on universals, we have the tetra brand here in australia on ebay! but i thought id ask you guy's with all the gun's

Nobody's mentioned the E-Z way: Sharpie! Good enough for a shelfer, I'd say.

lostwages wrote:hadnt thought of the wd40 or the rust converter, both good ideas, thanks.

I use Eastwoods rust converter it turns them back black.

Well, I usually strip all my old hardware with rust remover, Then wash the parts with soap and water and a toothbrush. Pat them dry, and heat slightly (just enough to drive off the water in the metal). Then I drop them into a container of Birchwood Casey "Super Gun Blue". After just a few seconds, I pull them out. Rinse again. Depending on the type of steel (whatever Kyosho uses seems to be the worst btw) this may be needed a few times. Once the desired color is reached, dry them off, and heat with a torch again. Only enough to drive off the water (btw this should only take 2-3 seconds for most small rc parts), and then drop them in WD40 untill cool. Nearly all my stuff comes out looking factory after this.

I have been going to do a tutorial, but havent had the time . Don't work it will have pics .-Jeff

good discription jeff, you should upload a youtube vid so how do different gun blue's vary? if i buy the tetra brand could i be disappointed? is there a certain technique to get a uniform finish?