RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

This is my little hot rod and it is set up for Dirt oval as you can see and comes with a Traxxas TQ2 AM radio and a Traxxas 2 channel AM reciever and a, was told it was a 17t, motor a chamelian backed by a MC210CB ESC with reverse by Futaba. It also has a Futaba S9301 steering servo. The truck has a set of Associated 3 piece wheels wrapped Proline striker tires. This truck is loaded with RPM parts which include lower a-arms on both the front and the rear. It also has RPM dirt oval shock towers, TC3 shocks with Speedy's Racing Parts red springs, it also has a RPM front bumper, as well as RPM body posts. The truck has a litesink heat sink. AWSOME PART it really helps keep things cool back there. It also has a carbon upper trans mount. It also has MIP steering links. It also has RPM ball end caps the ends on the rods I ferget the name of them.

Enjoy the pics and any and all comments are welcome.

Nice trucks, thanks for sharing. Welcome to rc10talk.

Thanks!, and np. Is there anything you can tell me about these other than what I have posted.

Nice 10Ts, welcome to RC10Talk!

The first one appears could have been a later 7011 kit, due to the front and rear arms being the later black pieces, and the dogbone drive axles.

The second one could be a 7011 kit as well, but I can't see whether it has dogbone axles or not.

Did the either one have the orange shocks originally? If so they could have started life as sport trucks, which also came with an MSC and dogbones.

Both trucks have the Stealth Transmission, which is more efficient than the earlier, 6-gear transmission, and is what came on them originally.

the oval truck has a&l/factory works shock towers and a a&l roadkill body. this is what they called their roadkill conversion and makes one of the best handeling oval trucks. here is a shot of my 10t based weekly racer with their new supermod body.

Group B wrote:Both trucks have the Stealth Transmission, which is more efficient than the earlier, 6-gear transmission, and is what came on them originally.

I believe ALL the truck kits came with stealth, the 6 gear was only in the buggy.

Yeah that's what I meant!

Group B, Thanks I really like it here. I just wish I had access to the classifieds already there is some parts that I am wanting and one or two I dont need, that I want to get rid of. But I know I have to follow the rules and wait my turn. Will the stelth trans hold a brushless set up? Also I do not know if they originally had orange shocks or not. All I know is that the #71 had gold shocks and still does just not pictured. and the #69 came just as it sits just no electrics and teh black wheels. I traded off for a 1st gen stampede parts chassis for it. Both trucks have dog bones.


wyldbill, You wouldnt have a website for a&l/factory works would you.

here you go,
http://www.factoryworks.com/
daryl lane the owner of factory works is a member on here and stops in from time to time.

Sweet Thanks!

Now only if I could get some yellow numbers and a rear bumper. I like that silver crown car but I am afraid it would be a bit confusin to try and get it mounted.

Insted of starting a new post I figured id just keep this one in play. Any how now matter what surface gravel,dirt and yes even black top I am getting major push when I go into and through a corner. It dont matter if it is left right long or sharp it pushes. Does anybody have any ideas?

Same truck as above same set up.

I've only run a truck a little bit on a dirt oval and it was a gas truck. If the truck is tight you can take a little cross weight out of the truck, you can do that with a little bit stiffer or more preload on the RR spring, this will help it drive the RR tire rather than the LR tire. I've also played with "tying down" the front end with lighter springs and a little bit heavier shock oil, this will help slow down the weight transfer front to rear keep some of the weight on the front end which is sometimes difficult in a vehicle with the weight of the motor hanging off the rear. Another thing that I found really helped, is 5 or 10 degree front caster hubs. One last thing to check that is often overlooked on trucks and cars that are running short shocks and towers is to make sure you have enough droop travel in your suspension, this is usually more of problem with a loose car or truck due to taking the weight off the LR tire in the middle of the corner making it go loose, but it's important to check in the front to make sure you're not topping out the shocks under accelleration.

Hope this helps a little. If you go over to dirtoval.com you could probably get a lot better advice as well as some good starting setups!

PBR Allstar, Thanks for the reply. The truck was supposed to already be set for dirt oval. The left front has a tad of toe making the wheel stick out a bit on the top. The shocks on the right side are set 1 hole to the inside where the left is set all the way out. in other words when the truck is sitting on level ground it leans to the left a tad. I have no clue how to check for 5 or 10 degree front caster hubs as I do not have my tools no more. All 4 springs seem like they are the same stiffness but the truck must be nose diving some as the right front of the new body is already scuffed. I have raced the oval in real cars, both metric and non metric and even a truck, so I have an idea, but have never done anything serious in the rc world well not with the electric part anyhow, and never with a non stadium truck. I dont think the truck is tight as so much the front tires are not gripping the track. Could this be an issue to? The rear end tends to slide a tad on exit with the small to medium turns on dirt. Also I have been to dirtoval.com and have gotten no where there.

Bent,
good to hear you're a fellow big car racer as well, I currently run a 360 non winged sprint here in northern ca, I've run mostly mini stocks and IMCA mods before that. The rear toe is something I forgot to mention as well, you might be fighting it a bit if you have the 3 degree mounts and 1.5 degree hubs in the truck. Try getting a set of 0 degree rear arm mounts, that will definitely free the truck up on corner entry, and help it rotate in the center of the corner. Trucks are the toughest rc car to make go around a dirt oval IMO, they always have some amount of push exiting, but if you can get most of the turn done in the first and second phase of the corner you can deal with the push off and get back to the throttle earlier. As far as the front caster blocks, just do a visual with the truck on the table, if it has the 20 or 30 degree blocks in it the wheels with "hike" up and down, similar to a go kart, if the blocks are the 5 or 10 degree blocks they will stay pretty flat on the table. A lot of your big car knowledge can carry over to your truck, think about it the same way, the thing you have to get past is a pretty lopsided weight issue with having a big rear percentage (sometimes 60%+ with rear motor), so do everthing you can to get some weight up front, slide the pack up as much as possible, even put some sticky tire weights up front (I know adding weight seems counter productive, but sometimes the handling improvement will make up for it by leaps and bounds.)

Let me know how it goes.

ford cook