RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

This is my SRB. Started as a new built Rough rider and see how I changed it

P.S. More photos to come

It is? (no picy)

This is the car with custom 3mm corlite graphite chassis, MIP rear trailing arms, early MIP rear aluminium universals, Kyosho optima series option house slipper clutch, 32 pitch gears, Thorp differentials, RCH front arms, CRP wide front end widened by another 1cm, 8mm graphite front suspension tubes, direct steering, mini servo, CRP rear cage, cut down gearbox, MRP shell, trinity 14T double Onyx motor, modified dirt burner aluminium rear wing, HPI shocks, custom front shock tower (a combination of original cast metal shock tower + corlite 3mm carbon fiber), AE springs, CRP wheel covers, CRP bumper cut down, Ti turbuckles from Yokomo, AE battery brackets, ALL Titanium screws from Tamiya.

Original Tires

More of the car naked later.

But.... a lemon is a lemon, it is just not a good car regardless of how much $$ and time spent. Yes, it can run but it is really very rusty when compare with a RC10. Well, may be it is not a fair comparison.

For example, no matter what kind of spring set up I try, the front is always too stiff, something wrong with the geometry to start with. It works but works poorly.

The rear is even more interesting, it does not matter which spring I use at all!!! Mainly the MIP universal was not really a universal or CVD per se, they are very stiff and in itself is already a lot of stiffness!! The rear shocks are more there to dampen the vibration of the drive train Due to this vibration thiny, the ball diff come loose from time to time, mind you I have been in this hobby since 1978 and you may assume I have set up a few ball diffs before.

Well, RR was my first car, I have it for old time sake, try to keep it 'original' by keeping the tires and inner wheels