How to build an RC10 'Worlds' Car?

[skunk.werkz]

Hey guys, recently I've been gaining interest in building my own Worlds edition RC10, however, the only thing I can go buy at this point is pictures of other peoples rides I've found on the net. Could we get a Do It Yourself thread going here with the different ways to go about piecing one of these bad boys together? I am interested in knowing which shock combinations work best and if there are different length tie rods needed for the front or rear ends and really any other interesting combinations you know of that have worked well for you.

At the moment I am building up a basher with parts collected over the years and so far I have the following. I will post up some pictures of the project when my camera batteries charge

-10T nose plate
-10T fr. shock tower w/bulkhead
-10T re. shock tower
-Cut and drilled chassis
-RPM rear 1.5* re. suspension blocks
-RPM rear arms

Recently I picked up some of the dyno-tech racing arms from the Klein sprint car after reading how they are direct replacements for the rare and costly RPM worlds arms.

Rear - http://dynotech-racing.com/partDetail.php?RefNum=2700



Front - http://dynotech-racing.com/partDetail.php?RefNum=2701

[scr8p]

the biggest thing you'll need to build one is the template to modify the rear of the chassis. after that, everything is pretty much straight forward.

since it looks as if your gonna be using a 10t front tower and not a "worlds" tower, your pretty much limited to using 1.02 shocks on the front. you will need to add limiters to shorten the travel, and cut a couple coils off of the front springs. or find some rpm worlds conversion springs.

also, for the rear, your gonna want to find some rpm worlds hub carriers, rpm 10t/gt hub carriers, or the old style losi hub carriers.

[skunk.werkz]

Thanks for the reply scr8p good to have a starting point on which parts I still need to locate. Already got my chassis drilled for the Worlds rear, I got it in a trade many many years ago before I even knew what a worlds car was, glad I didn't throw it out (it's pretty beat up looking).

So you mention that the front shocks are 1.02, good, towerhobbies still has those in stock. Should I use truck or buggy rear shocks for the conversion? Also what is the benefit/need to use RPM/10t/GT rear hubs, is it necessary for proper dogbone placement?

[adam lancia]

the biggest thing you'll need to build one is the template to modify the rear of the chassis. after that, everything is pretty much straight forward.

since it looks as if your gonna be using a 10t front tower and not a "worlds" tower, your pretty much limited to using 1.02 shocks on the front. you will need to add limiters to shorten the travel, and cut a couple coils off of the front springs. or find some rpm worlds conversion springs.

also, for the rear, your gonna want to find some rpm worlds hub carriers, rpm 10t/gt hub carriers, or the old style losi hub carriers.

Would 1.02 bodies with 0.71 shafts work? Also, I think the truck front springs don't need to be shortened to fit on that body/shaft combination.

[scr8p]

Should I use truck or buggy rear shocks for the conversion? Also what is the benefit/need to use RPM/10t/GT rear hubs, is it necessary for proper dogbone placement?

use the 1.32 shock bodies with 1.02 shafts. the deal with the hub carriers i mention earlier is that the axle, in relationship to the hinge pin is higher. you'll get more down travel out of you suspension because the dogbone/cvd bone won't be hitting the arm.

Would 1.02 bodies with 0.71 shafts work? Also, I think the truck front springs don't need to be shortened to fit on that body/shaft combination.

i don't know if it'll work with .71 shafts in 1.02 bobies. i've never tried it. i'd think the shock would be too short, but that's just a guess.

every worlds front end that i've put together and used truck front springs, i've needed to cut. even in the rpm instructions for the worlds conversion it tells you to cut off 3 coils. now, maybe with the truck front tower you don't have too? i don't know. i've used the worlds tower on all of mine.

[RichieRich]

.71 shafts in 1.02 bobies

My mind keeps putting an extra "o" there. LOL!

[Chewbacca]

While this topic is still running are the RPM rear worlds castor - blocks still available? I only have a set of 1.5° and 3° each. I might need mor in the future. Do Dynotech have something that might work?

[skunk.werkz]

Chewbacca - I can almost guarantee that RPM 'world' car parts have been long discontinued. You might be able to call them directly and see if anything is left over in the warehouse but I have a feeling some members here have already cleared them out of parts.

As promised here is a quick shot of my project, don't want to turn this into a 'My car buildup' thread however. Still interested in knowing about turnbuckle lengths, obviously with the longer arms standard RC10 will not work?

[highwayracer]

Still interested in knowing about turnbuckle lengths, obviously with the longer arms standard RC10 will not work?

This is not necessarily true. If you use the longer tie rod ends (found on the losi trucks) you can probably still use the original turn buckles on the front. The rears should be the same since you aren't changing the overall width of the rear.

Regards,
highwayracer

[skunk.werkz]

Good point Let's keep the ideas flowing

[scr8p]

the only tie rod that should be different compared to a stock rc10 is the front camber rod.

on all of my cars, i buy dubro 4-40 turnbuckles and cut them to the desired length. if i want to use lunsford turnbuckles on a car, i'll build the car with scrap tie rods and the style of ball cups i want to use. then measure them so i can buy the correct length i'll need.

those lunsford turnbuckles cost too much to buy the wrong ones.

[skunk.werkz]

I seem to have confused myself again. Does the picture look like I am going in the right direction? Scr8p, you mention 1.32 body/1.02 shaft shock combination for the rear, is that meant to ues with a buggy rear tower or a truck tower (I have a 10t re. tower currently)

[scr8p]

Scr8p, you mention 1.32 body/1.02 shaft shock combination for the rear, is that meant to ues with a buggy rear tower or a truck tower (I have a 10t re. tower currently)

that would be for the buggy tower, but it might still be long enough to use that setup with a 10t tower. i don't know for sure.

[Weave]

Please excuse my ignorance on the subject of the various RC10 buggy versions as I have only owned 10T's.

Recently I have been intrigued with the buildups, such as this one and the ones by aeiou and scr8p, of a 'modernized' RC10 using a 10T nose plate and the dynotech arms, etc. I have found many of the buildup details in several threads, but none appear to mention what rear A-arm mounts to use. I assumed I could use the 10T's or find a mount that is still in production. However, this thread is brings up a bunch of questions with the mention of the world's rear mounts. What mounts will work with the dynotech arms? I know mounts will vary in degrees of toe in and anti-squat and possibly length, but do they also vary the wheelbase?

[Weave]

I found out some answers to my questions by going to the manuals on ae's site. It looks like the 6360 rear mounts were widely used - I found them in the RC10CE, World's Car, and RC10T manuals. So, that leads me to believe any buggy or truck arm will physically pin up to the 6360 mount. Can someone please confirm this and also shed some light on the "rpm world's castor block" mentioned above?