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Quick question... I bought a used RC10 that had an RPM belcrank setup in it. The original owner had EXTRA long aluminum screws and ground down steel nuts to hold the screws for the belcranks (kind of a do it yourself A&L or Houge steering setup). On top of the ground down nuts were the white inserts, then the belcrank and then the nut. My question is, how is this installation supposed to go and am I missing parts or something? I don't want to use the ground down nuts or the long screws to clean it up a bit. If I don't use something to hold the screws up as posts for the belcranks to ride on, what prevents the belcranks from binding up when the nuts are tightened? The plastic insert/bushing, would prevent this if it was slightly thicker than the belcrank (like my drawing suggests), but it appears to be the same thickness which would most likely cause the belcranks to bind. Am I over thinking this?

assuming you are using an aluminum pan. the screws should tighten to the nose plate and stay put by themselves. then put the white standoff, the bellcrank, and then the thick nut, tightened just enough to keep the bellcrank from moving up and down on the screw, but not enough to bind. If the screw threads in the nose plate are stripped, that could be why the thin nuts were used on the bottom.

Nice drawring, Simon.

That would make sense. I forgot about the threads in the stock noseplate. The car came with a Composite Craft plate which didn't have threads...

HEY DUG! Don't bash me mad MS Paint skillz!!

It would be nice to know how many of the OTHER steering setups work too.

Im trying to adapt the Houge steering setup that I got from James (bikerbob) to a graphite RC10. I am having clearance issues and trying to figure out what bearings are needed and if i need spacers etc. Id like to use it on my racer.

It also appears that the Graphite chassis might have an extra set of holes near the steering.

I'll try and get pics soon.


MOmo

yes the ground down nut or associated 8/32 thin nut should be used on the bottom for graphite chassis. i've seen it used that way mainly because the top nut sometimes needs to be backed off slightly to remove the bind in the bell crank. however when you do that it usually makes the whole assembly loose, not loose to the naked eye but loose enough when in a crash. thats where you get the curved shaped scratches on the chassis under the bell crank where the long screws sometimes hit. and here is a dirt oval tip for when you have to use the nut under bell crank method. if the bell cranks are mounted too high off the chassis and sometimes hit the camber rods or you cant get youre tie rods all level enough for perfect ackerman/bump steer simply mount the white insert or mounting post upside down and that will bring the cranks back down to the correct position.

MOmo wrote:It would be nice to know how many of the OTHER steering setups work too.

Im trying to adapt the Houge steering setup that I got from James (bikerbob) to a graphite RC10. I am having clearance issues and trying to figure out what bearings are needed and if i need spacers etc. Id like to use it on my racer.

It also appears that the Graphite chassis might have an extra set of holes near the steering.

I'll try and get pics soon.


MOmo

You have to use a washer under each pivot Momo, or use a tub chassis...