RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Hello all, I joined here a long time ago because I really like the RC10's. I bought a lot locally a few years back to restore, but due to the lack of time, it never took off and I ended up selling the lot to badhoopty. Well, I just scored this one for free from my father's coworker. It is in very good condition except for some little scuffs on the bottom of the chassis. He said he built it and just left it to collect dust. After some cleaning, here it is. I have several questions about this one though. What model is it? Is the body I have on right now the right body for this kit? Because the wheelbase is off by quite a bit. Lastly, while I was cleaning and fixing it up (F/R shocks were switched around), I notice some orange sticky liquid on one of the suspension arms and on the shock collars. I am thinking they might be shock oil, but the shocks still work perfectly fine. So I want to ask, what type of product should I use to clean the suspension arms so I don't damage/discolor them?

This one will be a shelfer for sure, but I would like to install a motor, ESC, and servo to make it more complete.

Wow! So clean and bright! Looks like the first Associated truck to me.. an RC10T. I can't say for sure though cause I was out of touch with RC10s before they started to change the chassis colors.

yea RC10T and the shell looks correct to me

It's a 7001 RC10T if you want to know the exact model number. Sort of middle of the run, production-wise. Maybe late 1992, I can't tell from the pictures provided.

Take a nice bottom shot and a good 3/4 rear shot from the left side.

Clean example for sure.

If you are going for period electrics the ESC should be from 1992, the 1991 Novak 410 MXc is what's shown on the box, but the 410 M1c (spf) is probably more correct. check the Novak timeline. A modified Reedy green label motor in the region of a 17t would be nice, but the Tru-Stock or Elite stock would also be correct. Not to mention any of the Parma/Epic/Trinity, etc, etc "ROAR 91" motors. It's a nice enough truck to keep the motor in the family (Yokomo based Associated/Reedy...)

Nice looking 10T you got there.

I hope mine will look like that soon!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (insert moderate ammt of jealousy here)
Nice to see another period correct 10t

I soaked mine in oxyclean at a 1 scoop/16oz water ratio, let sit overnight, scrub & good as new

also your rear arms look more "rounded" in the webbing than mine--anyone know why????

reghammer wrote: I soaked mine in oxyclean at a 1 scoop/16oz water ratio, let sit overnight, scrub & good as new

So is that the trick that everyone uses to get "whiter whites" when reconditioning abused nylon?

Unfortunately there is no magic bullet (yet) to getting the white nylon bright white again. The only real cure is brand new white parts.

C'mon Doug, wheres the fun in throwing new parts at everything??

The fun in this for me is taking something that someone has forgotten about/raced etc
and bringing it back to life!!!

(sorry about the thread hyjack)

reghammer wrote:C'mon Doug, wheres the fun in throwing new parts at everything??

No fun, but it's the ONLY way to get perfect, white parts back on a car. There has been nothing found to restore the original whiteness of old parts. A few things can get you close, but if your parts are yellowed from UV exposure and age, there isn't anything that really works well.


Unless someone knows of a new trick.

So fresh and so clean, clean. I remember when mind looked like that....... and then I ran it

Woah! So many replies, thanks for all the information. Here is a shot of the bottom and the rear. Sorry for the background, it was the only area with sufficient lighting

that bad boy is sooooo clean. I like it. Very nice.

I tried the oxyclean and it does work quite well:) I am glad it is good for something because it sure didn't help in the wash lol.

That is a very late 7001 with the updated 'heavy duty' Team Truck type rear arms.