Reposting my to do list of things required to make my the Kit more accurate to Brian's actual car here for reference:
Missing Countersinks:
-2x tub sides that the nose tubes mount to
-2x rear of rear shock tower for the shock mount screws
-2x rear of front shock tower for the shock mount screws
-4x top side of trans brace for 4-40 screws.
-1x 100deg countersink for the body mount(bottom side)
Nose plate cut needs to be contoured more.
Nose plate cut (worlds cut) near the belcranks need to have anodizing removed/sanded off the edge to appear "machined".
Front of tub angle cut as shown in Jason's video.
top of rear arm webbing needs to be machined flush with bosses.
Bottom of rear web on rear arms need relief cut.
Missing middle hole in rear bulkhead. this hole is supposed to be 0.180" from the existing inner hole. Also outside needs to be cut like Jason showed in his video.
Rear Chassis Bend after the arm mounts with new central hole drilled. The screw hole used varies depending on the pictures I've seen. Pictures from the worlds show a BHCS in the right hole. Magazine pictures of it in the center with a nut on the inside (and a totally different motor plate.)
Slash cut and ridge delete on the antenna mount.
Battery box needs to be cut down.
Front bulkheads need to be drilled and tapped for a 4-40 set screw.
Turnbuckles have cuts to show direction, while nice this isn't what the original car had. The FanRC turnbuckles are a better fit and look more like the RCPS originals.
Brian used mostly Titanium 4-40 screws (Lundsford) Stainless is a close look to them. Looks like just about anything that was a Flathead Socket Cap Screw (FHSCS) was titanium. There's a few different SHCS used as well, front shock collars and rear tub to bulkhead use anodized blue aluminum screws while the rear shock collars appear to be either stainless of titanium.
Battery hold down used a pair of phillips head screws, unsure of the material, look to be beat up steel though.
He also used 2 natural Nylon nuts at the top mount of each shock and a cut down shock spacer between the 2 nuts.
Yellow Aluminum (some people call it green) 8-32 screws were used on the original. Steel socket head ones were included.
Rear arm mounts used low profile aluminum nuts on top of the rear screws.
need aprox 5 blue ano 4-40 mini lock nuts (servo steering ballstud and rear camberlink ballstuds) and 6 natural ones.(steering and front camber link ballstuds)
2x blue ano aluminum contersink washers used to mount front tower with titanium FHSCS.
Wrong style CVDs supplied with the kit with cup on the axle side instead of the bone side.
Rear hub carriers supplied in the kit are 0 deg ones and also have a bit of a green hue to them. Brian reportedly used 3deg carriers (1.5deg per side) the inner arm mounts are the correct 3deg models (1.5 per side) as well for a total of 6deg of rear tow in. The inner mounts were installed in the forward position (short wheelbase) instructions show conflicting info.
Need black eyelets, perches and clamps for the front shocks.
Black antenna tube should be a Red one.
Black ball cups on servo linkage. rest are white.
Tires are not right. But understandable. Should be Proline 8105 XTR Wide 5 in front and Proline 8086 XTR Flat Stubbies in the rear.
need to machine the outer lips down to the bead of the wheels
needs a hydradrive "pat pend", with black steel fill screws, and black Kimborough spur gear. Magazine trim it had a Green Losi Spur.
needs custom hollow black body mounts (I have a 3d model for these but need to confirm dimensions before i release them.)
Belcranks don't have the step like the Composite Craft ones had.
foam battery pad needed
Looks like Brian may have used Losi axles up front as they have a much bigger nut. Likely the "Pro" model that had a 5-40 set screw at the back for holding the kingpin in place.
He had Titanium hinge pins throughout, but I think he might have had an issue sourcing all the proper sizes as I see the following in the worlds' photos:
Longer hinge pin from the outer arms for the kingpin.
Longer hinge pins on the rear inner arms. you can see he added some white spacers to take up the slack in the photos at the worlds. unsure how much longer these were or what they were supposed to for.
E-clips:
-I think he ran a mix of e-clips, where he actually used them. The front kingpin and outer arm pins he used silver ones, or well worn black oxide ones. He didn't run any clips on the inners of the front arms I don't think he had a clip on the botton of the kingpins Rear look like black e-clips. at least the ones i can see.
Missing/incorrect decals:
MIP, missing
HPI, incorrect "HIP" decal included
ezekiel, Incorrect "ezekool" decal included
RC10 decals for wings, while close, original (during the '93 Worlds) was 2 decals layered ontop of each other. Left side had more of an offset than right side. Later (after '93 Reedy Race) the Pink decals were removed leaving only the Yellow ones.
Shock setup (according to magazine review):
Front #1 pistons, .060" internal limiters. 30wt Black Springs. Mounted to outside holes on arm.
Rear #1 pistons, .090" internal limiters. 30wt Green Springs. Mounted to outside holes on arm.
Note about this magazine article, it states that he towers have more than 1 set of holes, I can't tell if these were added after the race or if these exist at all as the pictures in the article are too grainy for me to see any other holes.
Other things of interest:
The car's setup changed over the race day as is the tradition of this sport
. Brian did no equip the car with the hydradrive till his last qualifier and up to that point hadn't even been qualified for the A main. It helped dramatically helping him seed 8th in the A-main. This also caused Gene Hustings to run out and buy all of the RC10 hydradrive kits (4 of them) from the local hobby shop and 2 more from other drivers in the pits for his team to use.During qualifying Brian appears to have been using 3pc wheels up front but changed them to single piece wheels for the mains. There was also rumors that AE was experimenting with weighted front wheels during the event. This also continued at the later Reedy Race in Japan where you can see Brian's car had 8 screws added to the front wheels.
update 6/28/25 - adjusted the number and colors of 4-40 small pattern nuts.
