Best way to buy and build my ultimate hybrid RC10

[vonmarshalll]

Hi all,

new member here who has spent far too much time looking at RC10s across the internet and has now decided to take the plunge and get going on building my 1st. I am a very experience RC builder but never done an RC10 before and have watched a lot of the build videos on YT so know what I am letting myself in for and am excited to crack on. I live in the UK, so parts are not cheap or easily available and the kits cost 20+% more than they do for you lucky Americans, but an RC10 must be built so I'll just have to suck it up.

Now for the dilemma that I would really value getting some advice, insight into. I am a tinkerer by nature, never build straight out of box and normally create a hybrid to meet my visual preferences and my driving requirements. I do not race, nor do I bash, instead mainly I get to go to a beach a couple of times a year and give my cars a nice stretch, then home for a clean and strip down.

So here are my goals...

Visual:

1) I like the older school look, so no 2.2 wheels / tires and probably the narrower suspension with the shorter shocks.
2) I will probably want to stick with the Proline body or maybe switch to the JConcept Protector which I really like the look of. The Viper is too 90's for my taste.
3) I will definitely want a gold chassis and gold shocks, ideally the orangey gold of the 40th / Halsey / Team and not the lighter gold of the Metallic

Mechanical:

Because I only get to run cars rarely, and when I have the opportunity I do not want to lose time dealing with silly little issues, I have got in the habit of always...

1) installing universal shafts (lost doggones on a beach are no fun and I love building universals)
2) installing turnbuckles all round and depending upon needs, replace the ball caps with sturdier items too.
3) going for the best transmission (in this case I really want the Stealth)
4) replace steering cranks with aluminium parts for lack of slop and robustness
5) put in a gentle brushless system although I have recently been dabbling with 380 motors

Problem is, Team Associated don't produce the above car!

Here in the UK, I can source the Gold Team Car or the Halsey for the same price. No 40th's left in the market, the Green and Clear don't appeal.

It seems my options are:

a) buy the Team, which has most of the mechanics I need, swap out the entire front end, the shocks, maybe the turnbuckles for the steering because I doubt they fit the narrower set up, replace the wheels and tires and body. I am happy to use rated aftermarket like JConcept or Fan RC
b) buy the Halsey, which has most of the visuals I need, swap out the transmission for a Stealth (which seems very hard to buy as a package), purchase turnbuckles and bearings and universals which do not come with the kit.

Before I settle down with a spreadsheet to trawl the market trying to pull this together and to work out costs, what I can sell different unused parts for etc, I just wanted to get some input.

Is there an easier way? Is there some unforeseen situation I am creating for myself by trying to mix and match like this?

Finally, if anyone out there wants a Hallsey chassis and 6 gear car with wide front suspension and the Team shocks, let me know! I could build both and you can have the other one!

[JosephS]

Hi all,

new member here who has spent far too much time looking at RC10s across the internet and has now decided to take the plunge and get going on building my 1st. I am a very experience RC builder but never done an RC10 before and have watched a lot of the build videos on YT so know what I am letting myself in for and am excited to crack on. I live in the UK, so parts are not cheap or easily available and the kits cost 20+% more than they do for you lucky Americans, but an RC10 must be built so I'll just have to suck it up.

Now for the dilemma that I would really value getting some advice, insight into. I am a tinkerer by nature, never build straight out of box and normally create a hybrid to meet my visual preferences and my driving requirements. I do not race, nor do I bash, instead mainly I get to go to a beach a couple of times a year and give my cars a nice stretch, then home for a clean and strip down.

So here are my goals...

Visual:

1) I like the older school look, so no 2.2 wheels / tires and probably the narrower suspension with the shorter shocks.
2) I will probably want to stick with the Proline body or maybe switch to the JConcept Protector which I really like the look of. The Viper is too 90's for my taste.
3) I will definitely want a gold chassis and gold shocks, ideally the orangey gold of the 40th / Halsey / Team and not the lighter gold of the Metallic

Mechanical:

Because I only get to run cars rarely, and when I have the opportunity I do not want to lose time dealing with silly little issues, I have got in the habit of always...

1) installing universal shafts (lost doggones on a beach are no fun and I love building universals)
2) installing turnbuckles all round and depending upon needs, replace the ball caps with sturdier items too.
3) going for the best transmission (in this case I really want the Stealth)
4) replace steering cranks with aluminium parts for lack of slop and robustness
5) put in a gentle brushless system although I have recently been dabbling with 380 motors

Problem is, Team Associated don't produce the above car!

Here in the UK, I can source the Gold Team Car or the Halsey for the same price. No 40th's left in the market, the Green and Clear don't appeal.

It seems my options are:

a) buy the Team, which has most of the mechanics I need, swap out the entire front end, the shocks, maybe the turnbuckles for the steering because I doubt they fit the narrower set up, replace the wheels and tires and body. I am happy to use rated aftermarket like JConcept or Fan RC
b) buy the Halsey, which has most of the visuals I need, swap out the transmission for a Stealth (which seems very hard to buy as a package), purchase turnbuckles and bearings and universals which do not come with the kit.

Before I settle down with a spreadsheet to trawl the market trying to pull this together and to work out costs, what I can sell different unused parts for etc, I just wanted to get some input.

Is there an easier way? Is there some unforeseen situation I am creating for myself by trying to mix and match like this?

Finally, if anyone out there wants a Hallsey chassis and 6 gear car with wide front suspension and the Team shocks, let me know! I could build both and you can have the other one!

Welcome. I think you can come close to what you are looking for without too much fuss.

My first concern would be tires for the beach. The original rc10 tires share with older Tamiya cars so you may find good beach tires there. jconcepts makes 1 piece rim and alternate tires in the original sizes.

The protech (I/II) bodies are avalable from AE and really have the vintage look.

Anodizing color has always been a mixed bag. If you are going to be specific about color you may want to buy a set in the correct color , or buy in person.

1)
As far as the driveshafts go here is a UK source https://www.jcracingproducts.co.uk/vintage-car-spares/associated/uj---rc10-14-2
2)
same place has turnbuckle sets
https://www.jcracingproducts.co.uk/vintage-car-spares/associated/rc10-turnbuckle-set
3)
Given what you said about how you run cars, I would recommend the 6 gear transmission, It can handle brushless setups. For occasional running it should be fine. It also makes the rest of your build easier. The stealth is a great transmission and much easier to build. That said the 6 gear is pretty capable. It's also a bolt in and out replacement. You can just upgrade it later.

4) The worlds style plastic steering is pretty good.
https://landlmodels.co.uk/products/rc10-bellcranks-worlds-style-fr-0035
I have the Jconcepts aluminum steering on one of my trucks. It doesn't perform any better than the worlds style plastic ones.

5) AE rates the 6 gear transmission down to an 8.5 turn brush-less system. If you go stealth it's just about anything. Any mild brush-less 2s, 13.5 or higher will work without a problem.

Look to this link for instruction manuals. The new ones not good. The original manuals were made to help you get the build right.
https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=44408

[Dangeruss]

Ooo... interesting build proposition. JoesphS had some pretty good thoughts.

There's a few 40th kits on eBay in the UK for £450-£525 add a Stealth trans from £80-£170 with a Factory Works (username GoMachV here) Stealth drilling template www.ebay.com/itm/303982690875 ...or you can print one from here https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=23763 ...universals £50, plus odds and ends, aluminum bellcranks, etc... gets you most all the parts you want for a little over... £700... ouch.

How about a Fan RC Worlds car from www.wartelle-shop.uk/uk-graphite-worlds-rc10-fan-rc-c2x41066640 for £429, add the shorter front suspension £35, body £35, wheels/tires £75, add the bellcrank and other aftermarket parts you'd have to buy gets you to £575... then sell the chassis, body, shocks, arms, towers, etc. for £250-ish... buy a new gold chassis, gold shocks, fiberglass towers, etc. for about the same £250 and have the car of your spec for £600-ish.

Maybe a Team Car for £400.. swap out the front suspension, shocks, wheels/tires, body, etc. for 40th parts, sell the Team Car parts, add your rod ends, bellcrank and parts of choice... might get the car under £500.

Choices, choices, choices....

Whatever you do, just don't work on the car after midnight... otherwise the little Gremlins start to multiply.

[JosephS]

Ooo... interesting build proposition. JoesphS had some pretty good thoughts.

Custom Works (username GoMachV here) Stealth drilling template www.ebay.com/itm/303982690875

I think you meant factory works, not custom works. As well aren't all the new chassis drilled for both transmissions?

[Dangeruss]

I think you meant factory works, not custom works. As well aren't all the new chassis drilled for both transmissions?

Ha... indeed I did, thanks, typo corrected.

Are they dual drilled? If so it'd save a couple bucks and a some time.

[vonmarshalll]

I think you meant factory works, not custom works. As well aren't all the new chassis drilled for both transmissions?

Ha... indeed I did, thanks, typo corrected.

Are they dual drilled? If so it'd save a couple bucks and a some time.

From what I can see in the manuals and build threads, the 40th only had the 6 gear holes, but by the time the Halsey and Gold Team have been released, they both seem dual holed. They have the same part number and the same images in the manuals.

[JosephS]

I think you meant factory works, not custom works. As well aren't all the new chassis drilled for both transmissions?

Ha... indeed I did, thanks, typo corrected.

Are they dual drilled? If so it'd save a couple bucks and a some time.

From what I can see in the manuals and build threads, the 40th only had the 6 gear holes, but by the time the Halsey and Gold Team have been released, they both seem dual holed. They have the same part number and the same images in the manuals.

The ebay pictures I see are dual drilled already

[vonmarshalll]

Ooo... interesting build proposition. JoesphS had some pretty good thoughts.

There's a few 40th kits on eBay in the UK for £450-£525 add a Stealth trans from £80-£170 with a Factory Works (username GoMachV here) Stealth drilling template www.ebay.com/itm/303982690875 ...or you can print one from here https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=23763 ...universals £50, plus odds and ends, aluminum bellcranks, etc... gets you most all the parts you want for a little over... £700... ouch.

How about a Fan RC Worlds car from www.wartelle-shop.uk/uk-graphite-worlds-rc10-fan-rc-c2x41066640 for £429, add the shorter front suspension £35, body £35, wheels/tires £75, add the bellcrank and other aftermarket parts you'd have to buy gets you to £575... then sell the chassis, body, shocks, arms, towers, etc. for £250-ish... buy a new gold chassis, gold shocks, fiberglass towers, etc. for about the same £250 and have the car of your spec for £600-ish.

Maybe a Team Car for £400.. swap out the front suspension, shocks, wheels/tires, body, etc. for 40th parts, sell the Team Car parts, add your rod ends, bellcrank and parts of choice... might get the car under £500.

Choices, choices, choices....

Whatever you do, just don't work on the car after midnight... otherwise the little Gremlins start to multiply.

The 40ths are all crazy prices. I picked my Halsey up for £330 so that's a good start. I have never come across Fan Rc before disappearing down this RC10 rabbit hole... am I correct in thinking this is a direct swap in, a replica Stealth? [url]https://landlmodels.co.uk/products/complete-transmission-kit-is-now-available-to-pre-order/[url]

Thanks for the link to Waterelle.

Over here in the UK, some parts are what I would expect to pay and some are absurd, turnbuckles being the main culprit. £40 for basically 6 screws!

Unfortunately, buying direct from the US is not really a good idea. Not only am I 100% likely to get stung by His Majesty's Customs, but the postage costs are crazy. I was looking at $50 of wheels and tires from JConcepts that cost $70 to post. I have learned that as long as it is less than £100, our customs don't bother with stuff from Japan and it costs £15 to ship.

[Frankentruck]

The 40th was dual drilled.
.

[Dangeruss]

The 40ths are all crazy prices. I picked my Halsey up for £330 so that's a good start. I have never come across Fan Rc before disappearing down this RC10 rabbit hole... am I correct in thinking this is a direct swap in, a replica Stealth? https://landlmodels.co.uk/products/complete-transmission-kit-is-now-available-to-pre-order/

Thanks for the link to Waterelle.

Over here in the UK, some parts are what I would expect to pay and some are absurd, turnbuckles being the main culprit. £40 for basically 6 screws!

Unfortunately, buying direct from the US is not really a good idea. Not only am I 100% likely to get stung by His Majesty's Customs, but the postage costs are crazy. I was looking at $50 of wheels and tires from JConcepts that cost $70 to post. I have learned that as long as it is less than £100, our customs don't bother with stuff from Japan and it costs £15 to ship.

You're welcome. £330 is a good start indeed. Yep, FanRC trans swaps in with the chassis being dual drilled like JosephS mentioned, and some folks think Fan's parts are higher quality than Associated's new parts.

UK sellers parting out new Associated kits on ebay can net you some good stuff like www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256635497256 Jelly Bean wheels for under £30 shipped, tyres front & rear for under £50, and Universal Shafts www.ebay.co.uk/itm/356566743361 for about £40 shipped... "Make It Build It" www.ebay.co.uk/str/mibi seems to have a lot of decently priced new-take-off RC10 parts.

£40 for turnbuckles is a little high... Yeah Racing TARC-008SV titanium turnbuckles can be had for half that in the UK if you don't mind their later styling. And L&L Models, Modelsport and others in the UK carry JConcepts aluminum bellcrank kit so it'll be cheaper than buying it from JConcepts in the US. Also, if you don't know already, www.jcracingproducts.co.uk makes parts for the RC10.

Also... you mentioned having a Pine Beach 380... JosephS posted up about them www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=50644 if you've got any opinions on their motors us Yanks over here wouldn't mind hearing your thoughts.

[vonmarshalll]

You're welcome. £330 is a good start indeed. Yep, FanRC trans swaps in with the chassis being dual drilled like JosephS mentioned, and some folks think Fan's parts are higher quality than Associated's new parts.

And L&L Models, Modelsport and others in the UK carry JConcepts aluminum bellcrank kit so it'll be cheaper than buying it from JConcepts in the US. Also, if you don't know already, www.jcracingproducts.co.uk makes parts for the RC10.

Also... you mentioned having a Pine Beach 380... JosephS posted up about them www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=50644 if you've got any opinions on their motors us Yanks over here wouldn't mind hearing your thoughts.

I am trying to find out more about FanRC. They have a gear-diff Stealth which caught my eye.

https://landlmodels.co.uk/products/rc10-transmission-kit-gear-diff-fr-004

Given the way I run my cars, I far prefer gear-diff to ball-diff for the simplicity and lack of faffing about. It does appear they are highly rated so it is good to hear positive things from another source.

L&L models is a company I really like (they are great for Tamiya M Chassis), and I had no idea they were so prevalent in the FanRC / RC10 market. I have already got in touch and am having a call later with one of their guys who is a guru so looking forward to getting to learn more.

Re the Pine Beach, I cannot yet comment on how they are to drive. I was in the middle of building my Scorpion and started watching the videos and chatting with members of Tamiyaclub where 380 racing is really getting a lot of attention. In the end I bought another Scorpion just to go 380. The product (the motor and the aluminium mount) are immaculately machined and the car is 100 grammes lighter, which considering all that weight is out back, should make quite a difference to handling. The 380 draws a lot less current too so I am going to use a smaller battery which also weighs a lot less. Unfortunately it will be a few months until I get to put the 19.5T Kyosho Le Mans up against the 380 Pine Beach Ro Mans but I cannot wait. I have certainly not ruled out opting for their 380 for this build.

[Dangeruss]

I am trying to find out more about FanRC. They have a gear-diff Stealth which caught my eye.

https://landlmodels.co.uk/products/rc10-transmission-kit-gear-diff-fr-004

Given the way I run my cars, I far prefer gear-diff to ball-diff for the simplicity and lack of faffing about. It does appear they are highly rated so it is good to hear positive things from another source.

L&L models is a company I really like (they are great for Tamiya M Chassis), and I had no idea they were so prevalent in the FanRC / RC10 market. I have already got in touch and am having a call later with one of their guys who is a guru so looking forward to getting to learn more.

Re the Pine Beach, I cannot yet comment on how they are to drive. I was in the middle of building my Scorpion and started watching the videos and chatting with members of Tamiyaclub where 380 racing is really getting a lot of attention. In the end I bought another Scorpion just to go 380. The product (the motor and the aluminium mount) are immaculately machined and the car is 100 grammes lighter, which considering all that weight is out back, should make quite a difference to handling. The 380 draws a lot less current too so I am going to use a smaller battery which also weighs a lot less. Unfortunately it will be a few months until I get to put the 19.5T Kyosho Le Mans up against the 380 Pine Beach Ro Mans but I cannot wait. I have certainly not ruled out opting for their 380 for this build.

That FanRC trans is a neat bit of kit. If you're into gear diff transmissions another option (rabbit holes, lol) GoMachV (Factory Works) sells a retro trans setup through JC Racing... looks like a six gear from the outside, but uses a three gear RC10 B6 gear diff inside:

https://www.jcracingproducts.co.uk/associated-rc10-transmission-case

JC Racing also carries his aluminum bellcranks:

https://www.jcracingproducts.co.uk/factory-works/aluminium-upgrade-steering-bell-cranks-for-factory-works-steering-set-for-rc10-rc10ds-i-jc10

L&L is cool, they seem to carry a large inventory of parts. Haven't ordered from them personally but some guys here in the States have and said they were helpful.

No worries on not having run the Ro Mans yet. Should be interesting to see how it stacks up when you get to that point. A couple of us here have been contemplating their 380's for our RC10's too. Your build sounds like it's going to come out very cool. Like the kind of car you'd have built back in the 90's... but without 35 years of wear, tear, and carnage.

[vonmarshalll]

That FanRC trans is a neat bit of kit. If you're into gear diff transmissions another option (rabbit holes, lol) GoMachV (Factory Works) sells a retro trans setup through JC Racing... looks like a six gear from the outside, but uses a three gear RC10 B6 gear diff inside:

https://www.jcracingproducts.co.uk/associated-rc10-transmission-case

L&L is cool, they seem to carry a large inventory of parts. Haven't ordered from them personally but some guys here in the States have and said they were helpful.

No worries on not having run the Ro Mans yet. Should be interesting to see how it stacks up when you get to that point. A couple of us here have been contemplating their 380's for our RC10's too. Your build sounds like it's going to come out very cool. Like the kind of car you'd have built back in the 90's... but without 35 years of wear, tear, and carnage.

Enough rabbit holes for now! But an exciting update.

I started a chat on the L&L site and ended up having a call with Lee, the owner. What an amazing guy!

We ran through everything and he ended up customising this package… https://landlmodels.co.uk/products/rc-10-racers-parts-kit-less-chassis, swapping in the gear diff, changing the shocks to gold, changing the front arms and turnbuckles for the short ones and adding in an Associated gold chassis. Literally everything I want in one very reasonably priced package. Cannot praise L&L highly enough!

[Dangeruss]

Enough rabbit holes for now! But an exciting update.

I started a chat on the L&L site and ended up having a call with Lee, the owner. What an amazing guy!

We ran through everything and he ended up customising this package… https://landlmodels.co.uk/products/rc-10-racers-parts-kit-less-chassis, swapping in the gear diff, changing the shocks to gold, changing the front arms and turnbuckles for the short ones and adding in an Associated gold chassis. Literally everything I want in one very reasonably priced package. Cannot praise L&L highly enough!

Dude, that's awesome! Getting everything you want AND saving money... well done.