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I received this JRXT in an old beat up cardboard box from my good friend Mike this past weekend.
Hoping the Losi faithful can tell me more about it.

It has Andys arms in front, RPM arms in rear. None of the JRXT rear 4 link stuff is there; but holes for it are present on the chassis.
I noticed this chassis doesn't have a servo saver cutout and the rear motor guard is stamped with JRX2 logo.
It sure looks like its been run this way a long time though; maybe it isn't even a JRXT at all?

The steering arms say Houge on them. All the turnbuckles and ball joints are a ball of rust.

The ESC is a Tekin G-12c, motor Trinity Midnight 2.

As far as a goal; I'd like to tear it apart and find the missing parts/bearings/spur gear, paint a body for it.
Really just get it complete but not necessarily OEM correct. I'm sure I'll find surprises as we dig into this.

The wheels rub the tie rods and aren't right at all. I'll need to learn what fits these trucks and hunt down replacements, even if not original.

I'm missing a gear cover and it looks like Sabula Tech has me covered if this is the non-slipper transmission.

Wheels look like they're for an rc10. Chassis plate is early style without the cutout but looks like some extra battery hold down holes were added. Rear motor plate is correct. The battery strap, Hogue steering, andy's front arms and rpm truck arms are all period correct upgrades. Tranmission is LRM and has non slipper top shaft.

The midnight 2 is a bit too new for the period but the speed control is fine.

Overall looks like a great starting point especially if you want to run it.

As far as wheels, the ones used for the JRXT had very little backspacing so you might want to source either the original 3 piece wheels or the Junior T wheels not sure off the top of my head what other ones would fit.

There's bearing sets out there. Just make sure whatever you buy is for the old JRX series and not the Mini 1/16 cars/trucks.

Dragon Punch RC makes some really nice titanium turnbuckles for a reasonable price that have the look of the Lundsford turnbuckles https://www.dragonpunchrc.com/product-page/team-losi-jrxpro-se-jr2-t-jr2-compatible-titanium-turnbuckle-set-7pk They also have Titanium 4-40 ball studs and 8-32 hardware if you're feeling fancy.

Spur gear was 86t originally A-3886 is the part number but there's also the "Profiled" ones out there shown on this chart

updated my reply with more info, was interrupted earlier and posted prematurely.

Since last post I have made baby steps on the JRXT revival.

The truck is apart!

The hinge pins weren't moving with a hammer and punch until some of that embedded grit got out of there and the parts were warm/pliable. The ultrasonic cleaner has been run multiple cycles on everything with Dawn and hot water. Several rounds of muddy water created.

I filled a dozen or so holes in the chassis with epoxy used for fiberglass layup. (oversized/extra holes) I need to get a 100deg countersink to restore the ones I'm using.

The whole steering linkage is going to be replaced with correct JRXT geometry stuff (FW and DPRC) and mounted back into the proper hole locations in the chassis. That old linkage might've been Houge, but it was some non-JRXT application parts and didn't have a draglink.

Bearing set on the water currently.

A&L Yellow monster truck wheels purchased; going trenchers and ribs for tires. The auction for these wheels mentioned something about needing different axles or an adapter sleeve up front? I measured ~.187" front axle diameter. Tell me more if this A&L wheel bearing ID detail sounds familiar to you, it is something I'll have to deal with.

Traced a shorty lipo on plastic cutting board and attacked it with a wood router; disc sanded to perfection.

I have an R1Wurks servo bracket in the pictures, hopefully it clears the linkage. If not, refill servo holes with epoxy and plan B.

Body and gear cover on hand.

I knew the trans was well beyond a set of diff rings and balls before I removed any screws, so I ordered a complete assembly off Ebay. When you'd rotate the top shaft it would randomly lock up; it sounded like a gritty mess. And I needed a spur gear anyhow.

Removal uncovered the transmission had fire damaged cases!
It looks like maybe a torch did it, on the surface that mates toward the bulkhead. The diff had 11 rusty balls that seem melted into the gear. The bearing pocket for the top shaft was broken out, and that loose piece of plastic was causing the lock up.
The gear teeth, top shaft, outdrives all look useable though.

The corrosion/pitting on the shock bodies and shafts makes me think this truck was used as a garden gnome for an extended period.
The shafts still move. Throwing the shocks in the ultrasonic as-removed, 3 of them still had oil in them when I disassembled after.
They're pretty bad. I can't help but notice that RC10T front shocks are about the same length as these.