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Some of the slightly more modern cars have definitely been fast on the vintage race circuit- the XX looked super smooth and I thought about building one...but I have way more AE and B2 parts....so here will be the start of the B2.4-

Looks like a nice buggy to start with

mikea96 wrote: ↑Wed Nov 13, 2024 6:16 pm Looks like a nice buggy to start with

Yeah, I have my Swiss cheesed B2 from my teens, and the late one on the bottom I built in 2012 from SNIB when I was quitting smoking and the "Faux Pro" all carbon one on the top from around that same time...but none to race....until now. Scr8ps B2 was super smooth on track, so was Mark Baldwins and a couple local pros, so I really wanted to try one

NIce roller. Lots of different suspension combinations you can go with between front and rear b2/b3 arms, all the different width front axles, and b4 front caster block and b4 rear hubs.

carloco8 wrote: ↑Wed Nov 13, 2024 7:33 pm NIce roller. Lots of different suspension combinations you can go with between front and rear b2/b3 arms, all the different width front axles, and b4 front caster block and b4 rear hubs.

Unlikely that I'll have this up and running by our Jan race, but maybe lol, the T2.4 is done other than a steering mod and B6 ball cups... and the Pre Pro SE 21.5 car is still only 75% there... Plan is big bore shocks, hex front and rear conversion (once I find Assc9881 axles) moto obscura front arms, Factory Works towers, that's probably all it will need. I'll have to figure out a rear fan mount too.

With modern hex wheels in the rear, if you use shorter B2 rear arms, you will need B4/B44 rear hubs, B44 length driveshafts (~63mm), and wider T4 hexes. If you use longer B3 rear arms, then you'll use B4/B44 hubs, B4 length driveshafts (~65mm), and narrower B4 hexes.

It works the way it is, really. Put the right oil and pistons in the shocks, a set of slicks, add electronics, paint the body and you're done.

Ok, just added some of the .4 components for a hex conversion that would use our B6.4/B7 tires and wheels. Geometry stayed the same other than hub depth. By the time it was all said and done... I'm going to keep the standard setup. Maybe I'll play with it more next year right side is hex, left is stock

Been up since 3, nice cold with chest congestion going on today...so I did a little work. Bleeder caps, RPM quick clips basic suspension package (F 35 #2 green, inside lower/upper 5mm cups, 24mm--- R 30#1 silver, outside lower/upper 0 mm cups, 22mm) and just making sure everything is free, changing out ball studs to 3mm.

What was the difference between the B2 and B3 anyway? They look almost identical? I took the B3 for a few turns down the road earlier, just to get a few charged packs closer to storage mode. They run great!

THEYTOOKMYTHUMB wrote: ↑Sun Nov 24, 2024 2:13 pm What was the difference between the B2 and B3 anyway? They look almost identical? I took the B3 for a few turns down the road earlier, just to get a few charged packs closer to storage mode. They run great!

Lots of little things, they're very similar but essentially the B3 is a little wider, maybe longer chassis too- more adjustablity in hubs front and rear, strengthened some weak spots like the rear toe blocks and such. The B2 uses the RC10 front and rear hubs and steering blocks. I almost grabbed a B3, but I bought a B2 in high school and wanted one to race ** edit** found this in Rods 25 year thread

Little more done, my focus has really been on my 21.5 car- and the B2.4 hadn't gotten much attention. Still more to do but scrounged up some electronics. This HW stock spec V3.1 isn't shabby at all on track, neither is the Reedy SP5 17.5...and my favorite Futaba S9551 servo.

Can't get a ruling from the event coordinator on ROAR vs Outlaw motor allowance at our Jan Vintage race, so for now I'll maximize everything I can with this motor- so ceramics throughout the buggy, aluminim and Ti hardware where possible, slipper eliminator and aluminim CVDs

I will be pushing these LIHV cells with high discharge rates and 23v charging for a bit extra on track too, motor timing optimized for 5.5a draw, lots of gear so a motor fan setup soon.

Of course, of we can run outlaw then some of this really isn't needed-

More to come

I was going through some stuff to sell, and thought this would be a fun pic. Stock B2, built from SNIB- All race full carbon built from all NIP, and the B2.4 racer

So this racer went a different direction than I had initially thought- nothing fancy, pretty much h a stock B2 composite parted buggy, with fancy RPM preload collars! And a few minor things learned from modern buggies like steering link equal length and such. Shakedown run and tire tests tomorrow-

Looking good, can't wait to hear how the shakedown went.