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Recently purchased the QIDI Plus4, they currently have a 5% off deal on their website, with free shipping, and no tax. I used the Paypal 4-pay, so I'm in for about $210 so far, including the PLA filament ($27).
https://qidi3d.com/products/plus4-3d-printer

The QIDI Plus4 can do PPS-CF carbon fiber filament out of the box, with nothing else needed but the PPS-CF filament, which is an abrasive and high temp filament that's heat resistant up to 260°C, flame proof, solvent proof, and since it is formed in high heat the texture is smoothly finished. It's also not as toxic as the ABS filament, but it's very expensive at the moment, $80 a roll.



Received my QIDI Plus4 yesterday, got the room all setup for proper ventilation.


First print was the standard benchy, with a custom flag (first filament trimming out of the waste port).


The next print was a Sand Scorcher MK1 (5) part motor, and some VW 5-lug wheel covers. These files were purchased from Knight Customs. https://knightcustoms.com/

I'm using QIDI Rapido PLA Gray filament, with the hot end set to 220°, and the chamber vented because it's PLA.







This job took almost 6 hours to print, at 0.20mm, or the fastest setting.


Have the MKII Sand Scorcher motor files that came with the Knight Customs pack, and also another VW motor that I will be printing for a VW Bus 1:10 RC today.

Removing the supports from the finished prints is more work than it looks like. Need to figure out how to do that faster and easier for the future.

You may start playing with some settings in the slicer and ajust the distance between the support surface and the suppported face: it is often material dependant as per my experience. Default settings is likely 0.2mm : the less the distance is, the more difficult it is to remove the support. The more distance there is, easier to remove it will be, with the risk of the print to derail...
And suggestion in such print : use adaptative layers, so it reduces the layer height... That gives much better aspect on the top surfaces when on a cylinder per example...

Thanks for that! Will definitely look in to using adaptive layers. I should've checked this thread before starting a new print job.

Started a job using the 0.08mm Extra Fine layer setting, to see what this printer can do.


Going to try the Tree Supports this time instead of the normal supports.


This job is said to take nearly 17 hours.

Yeah, new printer, discovery, too quick to launch print and hurry to see a result

Which support type do you use, for the best results?

I haven't read up on that one, you don't have the ability to print support material do you? If you do, it's definitely worth the added time and material. Looks like it just prints one color/material at a time

This one has a lot of features, it will have the multi-color unit it for it soon. The supports it prints, they call Normal and Tree. I'm just using the one roll of PLA I have for both the supports, and parts.

I just tried Tree Supports, at the finest 0.08mm layer setting, and with the circular wheels, the inner rim got ruined with Tree Supports. Pushed the Emergency stop button. This is what's left.




Looks like I need to use Normal Supports for the wheels, like I did with the first successful print.

The tree supports look like they were going work out well for all of the rest of the motor parts.




I'm going to try another Tree Supports print, without the wheels this time. The job is said to take 14 hours at the highest quality, or 0.08mm.


That same job, using Normal Supports instead, would take 10 hours.

GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Sat Oct 12, 2024 6:19 pm Which support type do you use, for the best results?

I generally use Tree supports... But tree supports can be hard sometimes : everything needs to be in perfect state for it work : filament extrusion properly calibrated, bed perfectly clean, and filament perfectly dry (sometimes, even with a new roll, there is surprises). The way I see it is that tree supports is requiring more jumps and retractations than other supports which increases the risks of a piece of filament to be dragged in by the nozzle...
Another suggestion is also to avoid printing multiple parts at once, at least for a start : not all parts needs to use the same slicing settings. Some parts may be better without supports, some others may require some settings tweaks, which means you are increasing the difficulty by trying to print multiple parts at time.
Also, you will find with experience than it is worth spending the time to understand effect of orientation on the part quality...

Good luck and learning curve

silvertriple wrote: ↑Sun Oct 13, 2024 4:13 am

GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Sat Oct 12, 2024 6:19 pm Which support type do you use, for the best results?

I generally use Tree supports... But tree supports can be hard sometimes : everything needs to be in perfect state for it work : filament extrusion properly calibrated, bed perfectly clean, and filament perfectly dry (sometimes, even with a new roll, there is surprises). The way I see it is that tree supports is requiring more jumps and retractations than other supports which increases the risks of a piece of filament to be dragged in by the nozzle...
Another suggestion is also to avoid printing multiple parts at once, at least for a start : not all parts needs to use the same slicing settings. Some parts may be better without supports, some others may require some settings tweaks, which means you are increasing the difficulty by trying to print multiple parts at time.
Also, you will find with experience than it is worth spending the time to understand effect of orientation on the part quality...

Good luck and learning curve

Everything you just said, was exactly what I've experienced the past couple of days.

You can tell someone all of this vital knowledge and experience, before that new person gets started on 3d printing, but until they experience the entire process, and failures that can come with it, it's difficult to relay to them what they're in for, or how they should proceed with their machine/filament/etc.; I really appreciate your insight and experience, thanks!

I tried the Tree Supports last night, and like you said, the Trees are probably better for some parts than others. My Tree supports experiment went badly wrong, it dragged one of the unfinished/deformed parts around the plate with the head, and then left piles of filament laying in its place, made the most ridiculous looking mess in there. Had to abort the Tree support job and vacuum the chamber out, filament everywhere

Started over using the Normal Supports, with the 0.08mm layer Extra Fine, or best setting the QIDI Plus4 can do.


These parts look incredible, not a flaw I can see at the moment. Just wish removing all the Normal Supports was easier, that stuff is on there good.

GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Sun Oct 13, 2024 3:02 pm

silvertriple wrote: ↑Sun Oct 13, 2024 4:13 am

GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Sat Oct 12, 2024 6:19 pm Which support type do you use, for the best results?

I generally use Tree supports... But tree supports can be hard sometimes : everything needs to be in perfect state for it work : filament extrusion properly calibrated, bed perfectly clean, and filament perfectly dry (sometimes, even with a new roll, there is surprises). The way I see it is that tree supports is requiring more jumps and retractations than other supports which increases the risks of a piece of filament to be dragged in by the nozzle...
Another suggestion is also to avoid printing multiple parts at once, at least for a start : not all parts needs to use the same slicing settings. Some parts may be better without supports, some others may require some settings tweaks, which means you are increasing the difficulty by trying to print multiple parts at time.
Also, you will find with experience than it is worth spending the time to understand effect of orientation on the part quality...

Good luck and learning curve

Everything you just said, was exactly what I've experienced the past couple of days.

You can tell someone all of this vital knowledge and experience, before that new person gets started on 3d printing, but until they experience the entire process, and failures that can come with it, it's difficult to relay to them what they're in for, or how they should proceed with their machine/filament/etc.; I really appreciate your insight and experience, thanks!

I tried the Tree Supports last night, and like you said, the Trees are probably better for some parts than others. My Tree supports experiment went badly wrong, it dragged one of the unfinished/deformed parts around the plate with the head, and then left piles of filament laying in its place, made the most ridiculous looking mess in there. Had to abort the Tree support job and vacuum the chamber out, filament everywhere

Started over using the Normal Supports, with the 0.08mm layer Extra Fine, or best setting the QIDI Plus4 can do.


These parts look incredible, not a flaw I can see at the moment. Just wish removing all the Normal Supports was easier, that stuff is on there good.

Don't worry, you are just starting the journey, and Rome never built in one day... And somehow, you are lucky. Your printer is not like my first one, where to get the first ever print done, I had to battle with the bed levelling, and probably some contact issue due to a faulty connector. With a proper printer, you are just going to avoid the nightmare of the double learning curve, and you can focus on the slicer...

I waited a long time to get in to 3D printing, wanted to avoid the hassles I was seeing some of my friends going through, as early adopters.

You were right again about the object orientation. I put the motors upright in the last print:


There was too much support material, orienting them upright, it left the surfaces still stuck with the support material.


Going to print the motors again, with Normal Supports, 0.08mm layer Extra Fine, but laying on their back, the side that's never seen.



This is said to shave 5 minutes off the print job, and with 14% support, instead of 17.5% supports this time.

Success finally!


Laying the motors on their back is how it was supposed to be done.


So much less support material to remove, once it is oriented correctly.






Will clean the supports off of all of this tomorrow.

Have some 70's mag wheels, a couple different styles, some beadlock Tamiya rims, and an interior plate for the inside of a Sand Scorcher to print tonight. A roof rack too.

Got the interior plate printed for the Sand Scorcher. Need to print some passengers now.


Dashboard, radio and glove box.


1.7" mags.


Engine on the left is for a VW Bus, the one on the right is for the Sand Scorcher.


There were no supports on the interior plate, or the wheels, but it took a long time to clean the motors, lots of support material any way they're printed.

Bought the Knight Customs, Myers Manx, VW Dune Buggy body set last night.
https://knightcustoms.com/products/beach-buggy-conversion-set




The files included were .STL for each part, and then it also includes the G-code, for BambuLab and Prusa Slicer.

My QIDI uses a program called QIDI Studio, but I am learning that it's actually using a version of Orca Slicer.
https://orcaslicer.net/


I want to be able to use the Prusa G-code provided, as it orients the parts correctly, and places the Supports in this best possible positions for a successful print. The BambuLabs G-code is not compatible, but Prusa G-code is said to work.

I was able to install Prusa Slicer, and found the right .ini/.idx files for my QIDI Plus4, for use with Prusa Slicer. I'm over that hurdle now, Prusa Slicer sees my QIDI4, and the correct options and settings/filament.


My final problem is Prusa Slicer doesn't open G-code in Prusa Slicer, if I run the Prusa G-code file for the Driver, it opens the Driver in Prusa G-Code Viewer instead of Slicer.


All I can do with the G-code file for the driver, in Prusa G-Code Viewer, is Export it to a .OBJ file, that's the only way I can get Prusa Slicer to recognize a G-code.


When I Export the 23Mb Driver G-code file, it turns in to a 976Mb .OBJ file, which Prusa Slicer then warns me that I have more than 1M Triangles, and the print will take a long time. If I send the .OBJ file to the printer anyways, it freezes at uploading the file to the printer, and stalls the job at 90%.


What I need to be able to do, is to take the Prusa G-code, and somehow get it to print with the QIDI. I didn't think it would be this difficult, but I can't get past this G-code/.OBJ problem. Can anyone see what my problem is here?

Nothing I could find, would load those Knight Customs Prusa G-codes that were provided.

Instead I had to add the .STL file for the driver, and then orient the part as was shown in the included G-code, then Slice the .STL in Prusa Slicer, based on my QIDI Plus4 printer settings. It changed the supports a bit, but it began printing.

QIDI Plus4 - Slice and Supports


Knight Customs - Prusa G-code Slice and Supports


Will soon have proof.