RC150 Nitro Engine Help

[morrisey0]

To put this simply, I know nothing, maybe less than nothing, about RC nitro motors! Just putting that out there. I am well aware of the principles of two-stroke piston engines, and I have kept my two stroke lawn equipment running all these years, but as far as RC nitro engines ............ nothing! And to help avoid this, I have only owned electric RC vehicles, or I have converted a couple of nitros to electric, but for the first time, I want to restore a nitro vehicle. But TBH, I don't really need it to run. But I want to make it turn over, and I want it to be correct for the car. And as I type that, hearing it run would be awesome, but not a requirement.

So I have acquired a RC150 with a VECO 19 engine in it, and it has a carb, and a differential. It does not have a muffler. I have done a little research on these engines, and they are a very old design, and they seemed to be taken over by K&B in the mid '70s, and they have a bit of a cult following. As this was the engine set up that was in this car when I got it, and I would believe it was probably the engine that was installed in ~1980, I would like to keep it in there, for the most part, but not to the extent that it becomes a PITA. If another available, and affordable, set up would be easier and still correct, I am willing to go down different roads. I actually have a couple of early '80s Kyosho/Graupner set ups sitting around that may end up being better donors.

My first problem is exhaust. I was kinda thinking there was a universal exhaust "manifold" on most motors, and you could just stick on any type of muffler, but yea, nope. The VECO is side exhaust, and as it sits perpendicular in the chassis, the exhaust port is straight towards the back. It also has no bolts to mount a muffler, and seems to be dependent on a clamp-on style. It also has two large holes on each side of its manifold, that were originally used for an exhaust baffle of some sort. Now, my engine has a clamp-on adapter of some sort, that I thought originally covered the holes on the side but it doesn't, and this ends up converting the engine exhaust port to a round outlet with a rubberish ring on it. I think a pipe can attach and clamp to this outlet, but I don't really know.

Ultimately, I would like to use this engine, and I would like it to exhaust towards the back, but I haven't seen a lot of straight pipe set ups, except for this little K&B set up, but I can find no information on this actaully existing. Yea, if I could find this, I would not have any questions and I would call this done.

k&b 6500 ad 1.jpg (97.76 KiB) Viewed 813 times

k&b 6500 ad 1.jpg (97.76 KiB) Viewed 813 times

Or this little gem, called the "Q.T." One of these would be awesome also.

veco 7.jpg (14.5 KiB) Viewed 805 times

veco 7.jpg (14.5 KiB) Viewed 805 times

So, I need to figure out an exhaust that will work with this motor, or changeover to another motor that maybe has more options. With the top plate that is on this platform, I really don't want a pipe that rides along the side and back to the front, I really want something that dumps out the back.

Any advice would be great.

[GoMachV]

Those engines were super popular and can be found in new condition on eBay quite often.

Mine has the baffle removed and Welch plugs installed. No relation to John lol. Then there is a Dubro Mini Muff'L Aire that clamps around the engine and provides a rear exit with adjustable baffles like a supertrapp. They were terrible compared to a tuned pipe but those weren't really a thing yet.

Pic shows one that's on eBay right now for example. There is also one out of the package for less

[Phin]

You can find a review article for the RC150 on page 48 of the PDF of the August '83 issue of Model Builder: https://rcbookcase.com/details.php?publication_id=2250

The article mentions that the RC150 was offered with a Veco .19 as a kit option, though they were out of date by '83. I assume they were used because they would have been real cheap for AE to supply in an entry level club racer. I don't know if a tuned pipe would actually work on a Veco .19, but by the time the RC150 came out pipes had become popular.

[RC10th]

Wow, that muffler would be messy !

[morrisey0]

Before I go much further, I dove into breaking the car down tonight, and took the engine down to this point. Is this okay for a carb cleaner bath for the night? I don't think there is anything left that will be harmed, but just need to know if I need to go take it out.

[GoMachV]

That's a tough one and I wouldn't want to say without having tried it myself. If it were me id try it but I've beat up some stuff before too haha

My dad had a great carburetor builder back a few years and he cleaned up some cast aluminum parts for me, I wish I knew what he soaked them in. They looked absolutely brand new

[RC10th]

I personally wouldn't if you want to run it, my opinion would be to remove the liner and bearings first. Unless you know what materials are safe in the carb cleaner, or as Jeff says try one first to be sure, but be prepared to ruin it if things go wrong.

Muriatic acid seems to be a popular carb cleaner.


I came across this video quite a few years ago and have not tried it yet but would like to give it a go.


https://youtu.be/cCTQK9aKpr0?si=xq4EWgSv1ewAUnip

[juicedcoupe]

Be careful with aluminum.

Lots of cleaners will discolor and deteriorate it.

Carb cleaners "should" be okay. I might use throttle body cleaner instead, it's not as strong.

I say this because lots of carburetors are actually made of zinc, instead of aluminum.

[morrisey0]

Thanks guys! I have to be honest, I read GoMachV's reply, and agreed with it, then got caught up in a couple of things, and forgot all about the engine and went to bed. Oh well, woke up to a very clean engine. The sleeve fell right out of it, then I went to blow it out and the piston and arm shot right out. Not sure if these things should come on out like that, but they did. I haven't run into any rubber or plastic that may have had an issue with the carb cleaner, yet. I broke down the carb, and it looks all metal, so it is getting a bath now also.

I got to thinking about it, and I don't think I am going to bother with running this thing. When done, the car is going to sit on the shelf, so I could do without it smelling of nitro. Not that I don't love the smell, but I really don't need it permeating in the house. I still want to go through the engine and make it right, but probably won't run it.

The piston and sleeve have some staining, but look and feel scratch free. The crank spins butter smooth. I think it could be a runner, based on my minutes of experience.

So, now I am stuck at this point. I got the whatever clutch assembly off, and it is soaking, but this flywheel is still sitting there. I am guessing it is threaded on, and I now have no great way to hold the crank. I will hit up youtubeniversity for some guidance there unless someone has a simple trick.

I also want to replace the glow plug, which is 1/4-32. I have read that that should be the "standard" thread size; is that true? I see HTUSA has some in the store, but they look to be for Traxxas and such; should those threads match up?

[morrisey0]

Mine has the baffle removed and Welch plugs installed. No relation to John lol. Then there is a Dubro Mini Muff'L Aire that clamps around the engine and provides a rear exit with adjustable baffles like a supertrapp. They were terrible compared to a tuned pipe but those weren't really a thing yet.

Pic shows one that's on eBay right now for example. There is also one out of the package for less

I am keeping my eye on the ones on ebay. I also found a couple of others that "look like they may work," for pretty cheap that are on the way.

[morrisey0]

You can find a review article for the RC150 on page 48 of the PDF of the August '83 issue of Model Builder: https://rcbookcase.com/details.php?publication_id=2250

That is a hard article to read if you are looking for information on a RC150! That guy goes on for pages, over three issues of the magazine, and about 80%+ of the article has nothing to go with the car! He even states a couple of times that he is going to refocus on the car, and within 2-3 sentences, he is off on some other subject! Interesting read, but terrible review.

[GoMachV]

Glow plugs are a standard thread but there are shortnand long plugs and there are idle bars on some aircraft plugs. I would recommend just grabbing an old McCoy plug, like a mc9 or mc59. They are still out there and have been around for a long time. For a runner I like an os 8 as they have always been good to me but I think the McCoy suits that old engine more.

The rod and piston come out easily once the liner is out.

To hold the crank from spinning, usually I will wedge something soft like a wood dowel or even just a rag between the crank pin and the case. I doubt the flywheel itself is threaded on, it will likely have a collet that's holding it or could just be some old loctite keeping it stuck in place. A tap to the end of the crank might be all it will take

[RC10th]

Give the back of the flywheel a few good taps with the handle of a screwdriver.

[RC10th]

Double post......


Make sure the sleeve and piston go back in the proper orientation

[morrisey0]

I doubt the flywheel itself is threaded on, it will likely have a collet that's holding it

Yep and yep. Found a gear puller with jaws small enough to grab it, and it popped right off. Tapered collet under it came off rather easily.

Now I need to press.............