Making a carbon fiber rc10t chassis the Competent way
Posted: Wed Jun 26, 2024 11:05 pm
It’s been about long enough since my last chassis. Since I ordered my sons rc10t re-releases I thought I should make some chassis for them.
I seem to be getting better year over year. Hopefully I can make something meaningful to them. As well if the tooling comes out well I’ll have my oldest make a chassis.
I’ll re-read my previous threads but I already know I need to build new tooling to make a quality chassis.
I am fully sacrificing a nose plate as well as well as chassis that was in good condition to begin with.
This is of course to put off the current build even further. I should be building an edinger I collected parts for years and can finally start on. So here is what I did instead Sanded to get things flatter Sits flat on the tile Using bondo and release
Previous attempt notes here
https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?p=540329#p540329
Relevant Notes here
https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=113&t=48258
The T3 chassis at the end of this thread
https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=47048&start=60
turned out well and fixed a few issues I was having with the April build. It was a good runner without being overbuild. Did well considering the steel pole I ran it into a full throttle.
though this was a direct pull and not cast from tooling.
Looks like the resin ratio should be less than 1:1
I never solved the issues with wrinkles in cast parts, though on the 2 part made from direct pulls the inside was smooth. I think the wrinkles are partly caused by excess resin.
The wrinkles make the part NG since the finishing is excessive.
I don't have any gelcoat. Given the summer temps. I am not sure that I can use it without waiting for fall.
8 layers of plain weave 3k 5.7 oz fabric should be about 2.1mm thick
Switching to west system from US composite resin. I am also switching to a ultra slow cure resin. It is supposed to be more rigid on full cure than the faster set ones.
I seem to be getting better year over year. Hopefully I can make something meaningful to them. As well if the tooling comes out well I’ll have my oldest make a chassis.
I’ll re-read my previous threads but I already know I need to build new tooling to make a quality chassis.
I am fully sacrificing a nose plate as well as well as chassis that was in good condition to begin with.
This is of course to put off the current build even further. I should be building an edinger I collected parts for years and can finally start on. So here is what I did instead Sanded to get things flatter Sits flat on the tile Using bondo and release
Previous attempt notes here
https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?p=540329#p540329
Relevant Notes here
https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=113&t=48258
The T3 chassis at the end of this thread
https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=47048&start=60
turned out well and fixed a few issues I was having with the April build. It was a good runner without being overbuild. Did well considering the steel pole I ran it into a full throttle.
though this was a direct pull and not cast from tooling.
Looks like the resin ratio should be less than 1:1
I never solved the issues with wrinkles in cast parts, though on the 2 part made from direct pulls the inside was smooth. I think the wrinkles are partly caused by excess resin.
The wrinkles make the part NG since the finishing is excessive.
I don't have any gelcoat. Given the summer temps. I am not sure that I can use it without waiting for fall.
8 layers of plain weave 3k 5.7 oz fabric should be about 2.1mm thick
Switching to west system from US composite resin. I am also switching to a ultra slow cure resin. It is supposed to be more rigid on full cure than the faster set ones.