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Revell Chrom Spray from Germany on the left, Alclad II for Lexan on the right.

Painted surfaces, or backside of Lexan.


Reflection in backside painted surface of Revell.


Peeled topside of Lexan, or the side that you'd see after removing the overspray film - Revell is dull, not suitable for this.


Revell backside up vs Alclad II topside up.


Revell needs a long time to dry, the finger print in the middle was after 6 hours, I'm still able to lightly fingerprint the Revell 16 hours later, but not as easily as before. I would give Revell the full 48 hours of drying time, on anything, before handling it.


The Alclad II seems to not fingerprint at all, even after 30 minutes, but it can still be easily wiped off with a finger, 16 hours later. Going to test backing the Alclad II with Tamiya PS-5 Black, to see if it will seal the chrome in and make it more durable.


Revell may work on the outside, or top of lexan, I'll follow up with how solid and strong it is after 48 hours, but the inside of Lexan is better left to Alcald II, or Spaz Stix, for chrome.

While it definitely isn't "chrome", I use Duratrax Silver Streak on bumpers and such. It is metallic and reflects well in sunlight (its overcast today, so...).
It also works great as a neutral backer.

juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Sun Jun 16, 2024 3:23 pm While it definitely isn't "chrome", I use Duratrax Silver Streak on bumpers and such. It is metallic and reflects well in sunlight (its overcast today, so...).


It also works great as a neutral backer.

That does look good.

Spaz Stix seems to be the best mirror chrome, for Lexan. I'll see if Alclad II gets any better with the black backing.



While waiting for the Revell lexan scrap to completely dry, I tested the Revell on some black HPI wheels.


These wheels are wet still.


No camera flash.


Not sure how durable Revell is yet, but on the surface, or the face of the chrome spray, it's incredible. Will give these 48 hours and then do the fingerprint test.

The Revell on the outside of the plastic isn't very durable from my experience. It depends on the black backer for its strength.

edit: ignore me! I confused my Revell and my Spaz Stix.

morrisey0 wrote: ↑Mon Jun 17, 2024 8:08 am The Revell on the outside of the plastic isn't very durable from my experience. It depends on the black backer for its strength.

edit: ignore me! I confused my Revell and my Spaz Stix.

Scared me for a split second there as I was scrolling down, thought I wasted another $40 on soft chrome that would never harden, or be useful for why I need it.

I still don't know how durable this is yet, but I'm determined to find out. The Revell is available on ebay atm, but it has hit the $50 mark:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/364538905680


The Revell does take a long time to dry, but it stops finger printing after 24 hours. I tapped my finger hard on that lexan scrap trying to get it to react, the Revell is solid now and will not even dent from a really hard finger tap.

Camera flash.


No flash.


As close as I can get you to the Revell surface.


Going to give these all another day to dry, as completely as possible, and then test the chromed parts for durability, and actual use.

The completely dry lexan scrap, with the Revell painted side facing outward, notice the mirror like reflection.


Severely folded and twisted the scrap - Revell did not lose adhesion or make a dent in it.


I'm convinced Revell is durable enough for all of my intended uses, including exterior Lexan chromed surfaces. Really impressed.

HPI wheels.


HPI wheels with Revell Chrom Spray.

Wanted to test the Revell lexan scrap to see if I could wash off the finger prints in the chrome surface with Dawn and water, it dulled the shine, permanently. Then touched the scrap with 99% IPA and a Q-tip, and the Revell chrome turned back in to wet paint. Revell on the left next to Alclad II chrome for Lexan with Tamiya PS-5 black as a backing.


The Alclad II does become permanent and solid when backed with PS paint, like Spaz Stix does.


HPI black wheels painted with Revell.




The Revell can be fragile, and might not be the best choice for frequently handled parts. Seems to be more for static or stationary models; but if you can respray it every time it needs it, to look all new again, it might be worth it for certain projects.