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Bought this RC10 GT kit in '97 or so, if anyone knows what year it's from, please let me know.

Bought this at Wold's House of Hobbies, in Dublin, CA, along with the radio and all of the upgrades.








The last time I ran this, a rock damaged an MIP Shiny CVD, it has sat like this for nearly two decades now:






The CVD was cracked and one of the pin holes was stretched out, with no hope for a repair. I ordered what was said to be a vintage replacement from eBay, and it was homemade, no where near MIP quality. It was looking bad for this old GT, with no hope for a replacement CVD, anywhere in site.



But then... an amazingly kind and generous user here on this very forum, saw my other thread regarding my damaged CVD, he PM'd me, and proceeded to make me an offer I couldn't believe was still possible in 2023!

What could this be? Certainly packaged with care.


excellent packaging, got here in perfect condition.


Cracked vintage MIP Shiny CVD on the left, nearly new one on the right that was just received:


SO stoked! The new CVD is an exact match, and in perfect working order, still can't believe there was one of these out there - a real and Genuine MIP Shiny CVD, not an eBay homemade look-alike. Thank you so much, RE!! - from JSB.


eBay was able to fill in the rest of the damaged replacement, with a new MIP CVD rebuild kit:



Also picked up an RC10 GT stainless hardware kit, as there looks to be more than a few damaged/stripped screws on the bottom.


Have two like new engines that are gummed up with after-run, but they turn. Just need to be rebuilt.


Never painted the stock body, always ran aftermarket bodies. This is the body that was left on it last when it was shelved with a missing wheel, for two decades.






I'll be restoring this GT, and then putting it on the shelf. Haven't decided what to do about the stock body just yet. More to come.

Is there a trick to removing and installing roll pins, without damaging the shaft or pin? Thanks!

A 4 oz. ball peen hammer and a pin punch work nice. Or a jeweler's hammer, they go from 3 oz down to 1 oz. Then as Happy Gilmore said... just give it a tap, tap, tap-a-roo.

Dangeruss wrote: ↑Wed Nov 15, 2023 9:22 pm A 4 oz. ball peen hammer and a pin punch work nice. Or a jeweler's hammer, they go from 3 oz down to 1 oz. Then as Happy Gilmore said... just give it a tap, tap, tap-a-roo.

This pin seems like it's too good for its home .


Do you know if those pins would be considered 1/16"? That's the smallest punches I see available.


Thanks!

Couldn't believe how many wheels and tires there were for this, washed them all. I may have favored the Proline Mashers.


Will start cleaning the chassis tomorrow.

GreenBar0n wrote: ↑Thu Nov 16, 2023 12:34 am This pin seems like it's too good for its home .

Yeppers, axle roll pins are 1/16 x 3/16. If the 3/16 punch doesn't fit cleanly through the roll pin hole you can chuck it in a drill (or drill press) and hit it with some sandpaper to knock off some of its diameter.

I get it now, thanks!



I ordered this cheap punch kit, it should be here later today.


Much thanks as always, @Dangeruss

I have these for fishing reels but they should work on axle and input shaft pins as well.

Juicedcoupe's idea is pretty smart too... but I can't tell if he's really zoomed in or just using the biggest channel locks he could find

juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Thu Nov 16, 2023 4:22 pm I have these for fishing reels but they should work on axle and input shaft pins as well.

Screenshot_20231116_151927_Gallery.jpg

Screenshot_20231116_151940_Gallery.jpg

That is a great idea! I'm pretty sure I used needle nose pliers in some sideways fashion to put my pins in originally, but it put gnaw marks on the surface. I'm looking for some old pliers I can dremel immediately following this. Thanks @juicedcoupe

Dangeruss wrote: ↑Thu Nov 16, 2023 4:37 pm Juicedcoupe's idea is pretty smart too... but I can't tell if he's really zoomed in or just using the biggest channel locks he could find

It is zoomed in so that you can see the slot and that the teeth have been removed from that area.

The Vise Grips aren't the smallest size, more of the mid-sized ones. Maybe 8" total length. I think that those are some cheap ones.

What was in the box after all these years.


Really needed these, so glad I had them, the engine mesh was set too tight and the bell and gear on there now are through.


So I did have diff lube and black grease. I'll have even more soon.







Received my roll pin punch set, the 1/16" is the one I needed. I'll still make the pliers with the notch, but the punch set will be great too.


But I ran into my first problem. When I broke my CVD in the field 20 years ago, it spit out the knuckle or whatever this is called, and I didn't realize it until just now. Here's the good CVD, showing what's now lost.




This is the last part I'm missing.

Apparently it's called a coupling rebuild kit, buying it now.


Also found an X-Duty kit, bought this one, hope it's the right one:

I always just used my 1/16 and .050 Allen drivers to punch them out.

RC10th wrote: ↑Thu Nov 16, 2023 8:55 pm I always just used my 1/16 and .050 Allen drivers to punch them out.

All of my RC10 and GT roll pins are in there really tight, I'll have to use a punch and pliers to get them out. Not sure if moisture played a role in that. Thanks for the reply.


Going to have to wait on parts for this project too, looks like. No reason to take it apart until then. Looking forward to getting back to this asap.

Got all the right parts now for the MIP Shiny CVD repair - the coupler kit, and the hardware.


Got the new neoprene pad replacement for the Stealth, and everything ready to fix the engine mesh.


This GT while not abused, saw the most use out of all my RC's, it's still full of dirt/gas and stripped screws.






With all of the parts finally here, there's no more excuses, time to get started. This will be a complete tear down and rebuild, with shelving the most probable outcome.

Regardless of brand, I use Tamiya AW grease on all my CVD's. It looks to be a moly-graphite type grease, similar to CRC assembly lube (but thicker).