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I’m trying to run a dual ESC setup on a car. Both ESC are connected to a Y connector. One of the ESC I pulled the red wire pin and have it taped back. The car powers on and has normal operating steering and both ESC lights are synced well when I give the car throttle. But anything over 5% throttle input, the ESC gets jittery and not smooth. When I turn off the ESC with the red pin pulled, the other ESC operated smoothly from 0-100% throttle.

Question: I pulled the red pin because I didn’t want to overpower the receiver, but I think the Y adapter will just run the power in parallel not series and I should be fine to leave the second red wire in the connector? Or is there another issue I’m dealing with running dual ESC causing the jitters?

(I do have both pinions away from the spur for testing.)

Any help is appreciated.

Could be the two motors are unsynchronized in their phase , so it's kind of makes it cog ,with uncensored motors the esc has to judge when to change phase on the motor , if there's a conflict in the acceleration of the motors it may cause cogging , looking at the setup I'd run one motor to each end rather than both on one spur gear .

From the little I read, the cogging issue sounds as if I were running 1 ESC dual motors that would be the case they could be not synced.

My first test both motors were not touching the spur and independent of each other so they should have been able to operate freely of the other motor and speed control.

Since my first post I have removed the motors from the chassis wondering if the cans were causing a grounding issue with the other, same thing. Then I removed the motors from the ESC, still same thing. The lights flash as they would be when the motors were connected under throttle, and still inconsistent throttle.

If you have a tx that can do mixing and a third channel I'd try plugging the esc's in different channels and have the third channel copy the other .

I currently have the cheapest Spectrum radio they sell. When it comes to electronics I prefer simple and least buttons possible. I’m illiterate when it comes to technology and learning how to make something like that work.

The only other radio/receiver combo I have on hand is my Traxxas radio that came with my Rustler. I tried using that receiver with the same result.

Are both flat spots on the motor shafts in the same orientation?

I tried that as best as the magnets would allow. No difference.

Another random thing I tried was removing the second ESC red wire and ran an aux battery pack. Everything so far has yielded the same result. My phone died while I was out earlier. Once it charges I will make a short video.

I forgot how to embed YouTube links

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=SgQa-lwwhsI

Did you have any issues setting up either esc with the transmitter per the instructions ?

Very strange , even unloaded and not running on the spur it's doing it , seems like Rx brown out but it still happens with an Rx battery pack , sorry man no idea

Maybe there’s a RFI thing going on with both motors..? Try separating both systems as far apart as possible and put the transmitter close the the receiver and see if anything changes.

MarkyDents wrote: ↑Sat Jul 01, 2023 11:54 pm Did you have any issues setting up either esc with the transmitter per the instructions ?

Both are setup in the same function, and calibrated at the same time.

Dadio wrote: ↑Sun Jul 02, 2023 2:14 am Very strange , even unloaded and not running on the spur it's doing it , seems like Rx brown out but it still happens with an Rx battery pack , sorry man no idea

Still appreciate your assistance, cheers

BattleTrak wrote: ↑Sun Jul 02, 2023 3:24 am Maybe there’s a RFI thing going on with both motors..? Try separating both systems as far apart as possible and put the transmitter close the the receiver and see if anything changes.

About the only thing I hadn’t tried yesterday. Still no unfortunately.

Which trx escs and motors are they ?
I see 4s packs, are they from the Maxx ?

Not to side track your current situation but is the base truck you started with an original E-Savage/E-Zilla like this ? If so just one of those systems on 4s is probably overpowered for that driveline. As cool as two systems are I think you should really consider running just one.
To run the kind of power two systems will lay down I believe your base vehicle should be a 1/8 Savage. Namely a Savage XL or Savage HP.

I’m not certain what model the brushless combo originated from. I got them from a kit partout on eBay. But they are the 540xl motor and 4s ESC.

And I do believe that was the origin truck as well. I have no real experience with any of the savage trucks. I just chose it because the side plate chassis style would be easy to lengthen and it was pretty inexpensive base to start with.

Also, I do believe you are correct on the power requirement and strength of the truck. Late last night after several failed attempts to make both ESC work. I mounted one motor in the chassis and powered the truck up. I attempted to see the wheel speed under throttle but quickly aborted as the wheels are far too heavy and unbalanced. It nearly shook the suspension arms off. I’m sure under load and tires contacting the ground it won’t be as drastic. But probably good enough.

The whole reason I started this build stems back to my late teens. I had a stock E-Maxx and saw an ad for the Jumbo Kong tires. With the little money I had then I bought the tires and mounted them up. Not only was it stupid looking it was underpowered. I made some crude chassis lengthening bars and extended the driveline. Bought a couple brushed upgraded E-Maxx advertised motors, some Novak dual motor ESC, and a couple 7cell NiMH batteries. Needless to say the truck was still very lethargic. I never bought a body as justifying that price for a 1/6 body back then was crazy. I gave up and moved on. Now with more money I figured I’d try my hand at the big truck thing again.