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Recently started airbrushing and using proline… it scratches off inside very easy. I’ve noticed others have had similar experience even after backing the paint in a Rustoleum or krylon clear. Anyone else using a brand different than proline and had better luck?

Hi rwordenjr

I have only used acrylic water based paints for some time. Proline seems as good as any.
I don't think acrylics adhere quite as well as solvent based lexan paints.
The acrylics are way more forgiving if a mistake is made. Before a complete cure, alcohol and a clean rag, cotton ball , etc will remove 99% of the paint.
That being said there are a couple steps I take when shooting water based paints.


1. Clean the surfaces to be painted very well with simple green or similar detergent.
2. I use a very fine sand paper ( 2000 or 3000) usually 3M Trizact on the surfaces to be painted. Just not any windows or clear areas.
3. Try not to reduce the paint.
4. I like to shoot when it's neither too hot outside or low humidity. My ideal day - 65degrees and 60+% humidity.
5. First coat is shot fairly light. At a distance so that the paint would not go on dry.
6. Second coat within 10 min of first coat and is shot wet. I feel this helps the bond. Any additional coats go on wet.
7. Let it completely dry/cure. It can take 48 hours or more depending on temp and humidity.
8. For a far more durable finish, top coat with Alclad II Lacquers Aqua Gloss, ALC600


My 2cents

Chuck

radioactivity wrote: ↑Mon Mar 20, 2023 10:42 pm Hi rwordenjr

I have only used acrylic water based paints for some time. Proline seems as good as any.
I don't think acrylics adhere quite as well as solvent based lexan paints.
The acrylics are way more forgiving if a mistake is made. Before a complete cure, alcohol and a clean rag, cotton ball , etc will remove 99% of the paint.
That being said there are a couple steps I take when shooting water based paints.


1. Clean the surfaces to be painted very well with simple green or similar detergent.
2. I use a very fine sand paper ( 2000 or 3000) usually 3M Trizact on the surfaces to be painted. Just not any windows or clear areas.
3. Try not to reduce the paint.
4. I like to shoot when it's neither too hot outside or low humidity. My ideal day - 65degrees and 60+% humidity.
5. First coat is shot fairly light. At a distance so that the paint would not go on dry.
6. Second coat within 10 min of first coat and is shot wet. I feel this helps the bond. Any additional coats go on wet.
7. Let it completely dry/cure. It can take 48 hours or more depending on temp and humidity.

My 2cents

Chuck

Thanks. Have you had the paint still scratch off inside pretty easy ?

Acrylic paints are quite soft when dry and easily scratched as a whole , the only solution is to put a final coat of a more durable paint on to back it .
I'm moving over to Acetone based paints but you really need to use a fume extraction paint booth to deal with the fumes , with acrylics you can get away with just a mask .

Dadio wrote: ↑Tue Mar 21, 2023 3:10 am Acrylic paints are quite soft when dry and easily scratched as a whole , the only solution is to put a final coat of a more durable paint on to back it .
I'm moving over to Acetone based paints but you really need to use a fume extraction paint booth to deal with the fumes , with acrylics you can get away with just a mask .

Which brand would acetone paints be ?

rwordenjr wrote: ↑Tue Mar 21, 2023 7:50 am

Dadio wrote: ↑Tue Mar 21, 2023 3:10 am Acrylic paints are quite soft when dry and easily scratched as a whole , the only solution is to put a final coat of a more durable paint on to back it .
I'm moving over to Acetone based paints but you really need to use a fume extraction paint booth to deal with the fumes , with acrylics you can get away with just a mask .

Which brand would acetone paints be ?

Alclad 2 and HR Hobbies are two I'm playing with right now , I'm still fairly new to Acetone paints , AK are another I have some of their primer .

What's the best paint these days for Lexan, with an airbrush?

I see people complain Proline scratches off too easily.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/proline-rc-body-airbrush-paint-primary-color-set-6-pro6323-00/p863142#tab-feedback

I am using proline, it scratches if i dont back it. I use rust-oleum 2X clear (any plastic safe clear is probably fine).

I am new to airbrushing and have only used proline paints. The paints don’t work out of the bottle for me either. I have to use vallejo flow improver with them to prevent clogging.

Would love to hear if anyone has experience with paints that are better.

I have been using parma faskolor for awhile now and really like it. Flows good and doesn't scratch off like the proline paint does.

I had thought acetone was necessary to etch the Lexan, in order to get proper adhesion. Glad to hear the toxic fumes aren't necessary.

Do you back your Parma Faskolor in anything? Can you spray PF out of the bottle, or do you need to thin it?

Thanks!

Some times I back it with clear and so far I have only had to thin the blue it seems a little thicker.

mikea96 wrote: ↑Sat Sep 21, 2024 11:46 pm Some times I back it with clear and so far I have only had to thin the blue it seems a little thicker.

I see there are a lot of different brands of thinner, and it is usually recommended to go with the paint manufacturers thinner that is formulated for their brand of paints, but which thinner are you using with Faskolor? And, what brand clear are you using for backing the Faskolor with?

Thanks!

I used some proline thinner I had and just krylon matte clear

I'm going to stick to my original post.
I have had good results with acrylic paints using the above recommendations.

I will add...
The last step, for a more durable finish, the idea would be to spray a wet coat of Alclad Aqua Clear to seal and protect the acrylic paint.

After recently using Aqua Clear to fill small scratches on a CF chassis I am even more convinced of it's durability as an overcoat.
I finish sanded the fully cured Aqua Clear acrylic on a CF chassis and the Aqua Clear showed it's toughness. It sanded as though it was a hard plastic.

The no toxic fumes, easy cleanup and the ability to correct small errors with alcohol and a q-tip far outweigh the adhesion and durability of Tamiya type paints for me.

Chuck

My 2 cents:

Don't put acetone anywhere on a Lexan body. It will haze it and any minute cracks will be exacerbated. You could end up throwing away a body if you use acetone on it; ask me how I know...be forewarned.

Make sure to wash the inside of any new Lexan body with dish soap and rinse. Body mold release agents are sometimes still present on new bodies and can prevent paint from sticking properly.

Scuff the inside surfaces of the body with fine steel wool; make sure not to scuff the windows, if you want them to remain clear. You won't see the scuff marks of the steel wool after painting and this will help paint to adhere.

Use proper Lexan paint. Paint for polycarbonate should be used; water-borne paints like FasKolor, Createx, Tamiya polycarbonate paint are good. I would avoid acrylic paints as they don't ideally bond to Lexan.