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Point of no return. Bags cut open. Hydrating the nylon parts. I don't think I will be peroxiding any parts. IIRC, some of the parts (rear bulkhead, trans. case, etc.) are what they called bitd "glass impregnated nylon" which accounts for the slightly more yellowed appearance of those parts.
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☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆08AUG2022☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆

Got the diff and gearbox put together. Funny thing is the diff comes assembled as a "quality assurance" measure, but then you have to dissasemble, clean, lube, and reassemble. Used AE stealth and black grease on the important parts. Also went with the steel top gear. Another head~scratcher is the slipper parts only contained 6 rulon pegs. I coulda sworn my original kit bitd had 12. So it's running a 1 every other hole in the spur. I am pretty sure I have a Raborn slipper and a PowerClutch in parts, but the parts bins got "reorganized" during shipping. I might need to track down a parts list/exploded view of those units to see if I can piece one of them together. I've had favorable results running the stock unit but it is always cool to have the aftermarket stuff.

The A&L dogbones are a nice touch. *(edit: I love the A&L dogbones but I did have a set of the Traxxas dogbones and after seeing the tapered outdrives on Mr. Vehlow's TRX-1/2/3 proto buggy, I decided to display the Traxxas bones here. They were included with the TCP and as a hop-up for the TRX-3) Although I did think about using the Traxxas hardened steel universals, they were not showing on the factory option parts list in the box. So I'm going with the egg shell brittle white yokes (thank God it's a shelf queen build) But I am also going with the RC Screwz SS hex drive screws. Not exactly period, but a kid could have sourced something similar bitd I guess.

This might slow down a bit cuz baby is coming any day now. I also may run out of SS screws. And I need to check on the Lunsford retro style turnbuckle lengths. I don't want to thread the super rare white endlinks twice. I ordered some Lunsford retro styles. I used a revised TRX-1 parts list to determine the lengths needed but then realized the assembly manual shows (4) 54mm turnbuckles and the parts list shows (2) 54mm and (2) 46mm turnbuckles. So I panic-ordered (2) additional 54mm turnbuckles. Then I got to looking and realized that due to the steering drag link differences between the SWB and LWB, I will probably need (2) 46mm and only (2) 54mm.

While waiting on those turnbuckles, I'll be actively avoiding the shock building.

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☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆21AUG2022☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆

Lunsford titanium
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☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆10SEP2022☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆

Got some 3mm carbon fiber towers and made a little more progress tonight into the morning. I felt like a senior citizen fumbling with E-clips while wearing reading glasses. I absolutely cannot wait for the shock assembling!! ________________________________________________
☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆01OCT2022☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆

What I have been avoiding!! Shock building. TiN shafts, X-rings and limiters per the A&L dogbone instructions. Kit oil (30w assuming) one hole pistons. Went ahead with the red rubber O-ring jounce stops per the manual.
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☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆02OCT2022☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆

Well kind of a leap of progress here. The shocks are really the linchpin to the build. Ended up using the 54mm Lunsford equivalent lengths on the four front tie-rods. I really don't want to open the bag on the tires. I know it's kinda silly to blow out a kit and then get all sensitive about some parts of it.....anyway.

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☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆10NOV2022☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆

Picked up what I feel is a "period correct" ESC. Used Novak 410-M1c. I did order some newer Novak 12ga blue/red/black wire and my plan is to rewire the thing. The receiver and switch leads are in pretty fair condition although there is some type of adhesive residue on the receiver wire. Like it was set in a channel running under the battery tray in a previous life is my suspicion. And the shrink wrap on the switch is nicked ever so slightly. I thought it was missing the casehalf gasket but looking at some M1c "box art", I don't believe they came with one. The heatsinks, case top and label are near perfect so I am stoked about that.

________________☆24DEC2022☆________________

Not much but I got the Novak wire and got the ESC mains rewired.

Got some Schumacher rubber on it

Yikes. Time. Passes. Anyway, apologies for cannibalizing a rear Eagle/Bullet tower. Too much MacGuyver bitd, I guess..

Another beautiful build from you. I really like the short chassis. The TRX1 is such a great looking car.

We all know how unguided builds progress and morph. I dumped the Novak electronics path (will utilize those elsewhere). I traded the black wheel set for a bitchin' Hitec SP-1802. Not a hard of the hardcore balls-out racing ESC, but a respectable three wire, clearcase with unique appeal. The Dynamite Micro Pro....well the whole thing started with deck space envy, I wanted some electronics that would fit nicely alongside the battery space, so I found a nice Dynamite. Then I come to find out that that particular receiver is a Hitec variant, etc., and that they are also somehow connected to the RCD/Hitec Shredder receiver that is detail and dimensionally identical, but with a clear case. So that Ironman Torque II endbell says match me with some Novak orange, but the blue label says I look fair with the other blue bits. I found a Bulldog heatsink set in that kind of matching tired blue shade. And the Dynamite just looks out of place, so Shredder it is (will be). So now, some will say I need a Cirrus CS-60BB servo to finish out the clear theme...but I think I'll just let that mad period-incorrect Futaba marinate for a while... it matches the period-incorrect wire segments and heakshrink I used on the motor and ESC. Don't look too closely at those ball cups and balls either. Still gotta work some kinks out. Not a huge fan of the switch and speedo wires up and across the shock tower. Guess I could re-route across and under the "battery". One thing I liked about my T3 bitd was that little wire relief channel in the battery box. OK too much blah blah.

Shipping would suck, but I'll trade a Shredder for the Micro Pro.

And the Cirrus cases don't match with the Hitec cases. Hitec is smoke and Cirrus is true clear.

If you don't need a vintage servo, Blue Bird makes some smoke/clear ones that match fairly well.

For future reference, these Ace receivers are also good for space limited applications. They are a little shorter, but wider than the Hitec/Dynamite.

Mounted up the Shredder.