RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

I finally got my hands on a rc10, never had one before. It was missing a few parts that I will start tracking down, but regardless I'm very stoked about getting it cleaned up and in shape.

It doesn't look to be missing much.

What's your plan? Restoration, resto-mod, or just get it running.

The cross mounted batteries are somewhat of a pain with modern stick packs, even with the caps removed. However, there are cups and bracelets available that fit shorty lipo packs there.

All of my gold pans are modified to properly locate stick packs in the inline position.

Looks like it has Hot Trick steering bellcranks. Nice.

Might want to swap out those tires and wheels for some modern ones, if making it a runner. The original tires like those bring a premium. They're worth preserving.

juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Wed Apr 13, 2022 9:27 pm It doesn't look to be missing much.

What's your plan? Restoration, resto-mod, or just get it running.

The cross mounted batteries are somewhat of a pain with modern stick packs, even with the caps removed. However, there are cups and bracelets available that fit shorty lipo packs there.

All of my gold pans are modified to properly locate stick packs in the inline position.

Im missing body mounts, I will need shock oring kits, bearings and I should be pretty good. I ordered a re pop body from boki

3D printed body mounts are available. Team CRP posts fit as well and are available in multiple colors.

For a single set of shock, there are o-ring kits available on ebay.

Those look like bottom load shocks. If you damage the plastics, the ones from the basic Traxxas kit can be used by reaming the holes to 1/8".

I'd also put limiters in the rear shocks, to limit travel.

Frankentruck wrote: ↑Wed Apr 13, 2022 9:41 pm Looks like it has Hot Trick steering bellcranks. Nice.

Might want to swap out those tires and wheels for some modern ones, if making it a runner. The original tires like those bring a premium. They're worth preserving.

they say associated on them, not good year

RC4X4 wrote: ↑Wed Apr 13, 2022 11:18 pm they say associated on them, not good year

Those are correct for a later car.

The Good Year and unmarked tires were on earlier cars.

top veiw

If you intend on actual running it, I'd probably find some different bellcranks. Pretty much, any other one.

While the Hot Trick parts definitely have a vintage vibe to them, they...... kinda suck.

Factory Works still makes the original A&L setup and JConcepts makes some nice aluminum ones as well.

Alternatively, you can check eBay for some Worlds, Houge, RPM, Composite Craft, or MIP.

I don't really recommend the aluminum RPS parts either. They are thick and can cause interference problems with other parts.

There is also the factory setup used on DS cars and GT trucks. It incorporates an adjustable servo saver. However, it uses plastic bushings.

There is also the original setup, but they are prone to slop and breakage.

I'd also recommend rehydrating all the nylon parts , give them a clean then stick them in a bucket of water for a couple of days , don't boil them , nylon should have a water content to remain supple and when it dries out it becomes brittle , simply soaking in water for a day or two restores the water content , worth doing if your going to run it and it costs nothing .

Any good suggestions for ballends/cups. I would like to keep them looking oem. The whole front as been replaced with an aftermarket style ball connector. To answer some previous questions I would like to run this so I don’t mind updating somethings, but really want to try to keep a vintage look. Some great tips guys thank you. What is everyone’s thoughts on ultra sonic cleaning plastics parts?

You can get new ballcups and ball ends from custom works. They will be black. The dubro ones you have are vintage correct and perfectly fine as long as they aren't mangled

I agree on a good cleanup, parts soak and steering bellcrank replacement.

New wheels and tires of you plan to drive it often, otherwise the stock one are fine for just putting around

Schumacher 1704 ball cups are an option that are similar size to the AE original parts.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/schumacher-plastic-ball-cups-8-schu1704/p153145

RPM 73372 ball cups are also an option but might require a little shaving to clear clashes at the back side of the front shock tower.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/rpm-heavy-duty-440-rod-ends-black-12-rpm73372/p38146

Custom Works ball studs work well and I think the also have an Allen wrench pocket on top as an additional way to install or remove. Long and short threaded studs shown here:

https://www.amainhobbies.com/search?cID=&s=Custom+Works+Hex+Drive+Ball+Studs

If you don't have a ball cup installation tool, the options shown in this thread all work really well.

https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=113&t=46986

For cleaning plastic parts, I get good results from soaking in soapy water and using a toothbrush (someone else's ) for getting the grime off.

Ultrasonic cleaners will work pretty well and are harmless .

Will these work on my buggy?

https://lunsfordracing.com/collections/team-associated-rc10-1/products/3mm-punisher-titanium-turnbuckle-kit-for-team-associated-rc10