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Now firstly I'm not knocking the Nikko Frame buggy , they are warmly remembered and at the high end of non hobby grade cars (hate the hobby grade tag but everybody understands it).
The why is more to do with this example. The wings missing, the nerf bar that is still with it is broken, other one missing, half the chrome effect has worn off the plastic, it's scratched, the decals are damaged, and it only goes backwards, so why for the love of cheese am I wasting time on it? There's no emotional attachment to me either.


Thing is I love my daughter and her partner picked this up and then saw an eBay add that showed a mint in box titled "rare collectible" going for £150 ........ Most of them go for £50, so he's convinced he's done well and I restore these things right!
It's not mint , there's no box and even then it's only worth £50-£60 .....hah!
Well first of I thought I'd look at the control board (Rx/ESC combo) to see if I could get it going forward as well as reverse, there's only 4 fets on two big heat sinks so I'm thinking two for forward and two for reverse, none look burned, now I've had this reflow station for a while and only used the soldering iron not the reflow tool so this is ripe for a test. So I go over the board reflowing, for anybody who's not sure the reflow tool is like a miniature hot air gun that is thermostat controlled and the blowing force is controllable on some as well, the idea is to just remelt the solder to fix micro cracks without overheating components, well after the reflow it goes forward YAY! Now it won't go backwards. I'll have another go tomorrow maybe.
The next thing was the nerf bars, a bit of 3d sketching in Fusion 360 and we have this(3d sketching is, well it's hard to explain but it does odd things that are like putting my brain in a micro wave oven ), it's black because I just couldn't colour Mach the grey.


It's not exact but it had to be possible to 3d print it, it's FDM (filament) printed then painted with 3d printer resin to smooth out layer lines, then painted with ...well paint.


Think they look good enough.

Dadio wrote: ↑Mon Apr 04, 2022 4:02 pm It's not exact but it had to be possible to 3d print it , it's FDM (filament) printed then painted with 3d printer resin to smooth out layer lines , then painted with ...well paint

Would you please explain how do you paint with 3D printer resin... Idea looks very interesting

And nice result, by the way.

How are you going to deal with the wing, as it seems that there is no sample to reproduce it?
EDIT: just had a look , I think this frame buggy is also know as Nikko Thunderbolt F10, and there is a wing on Thingiverse...

I think the wing is still with my daughter's partner so may be fixable , hopefully
Once you have printed something with a resin printer it is not fully cured , the resin still needs to be cured under UV light to make it fully hard so anybody who has a resin printer either has a UV light of a curing station but curing stations are more expensive , I have the UV lamp , basically the resin is just a thin liquid and can be brush painted onto an FDM printed part then 20 seconds under UV light , it fills the layer lines gradually , after painting a thin coat you cure it with the UV light then you can paint another cote untill it's smooth , the resin is also very easy to sand compared to PLA or most other filaments , it's kind of a lazy way to good looking prints, it's fast too but the resin is not cheap , fortunately it doesn't use much resin .

I should point out it's brush paint the resin only , it's pretty toxic , I did see a YouTube fool airbrushing the stuff but that's a definite no-no !

Dadio wrote: ↑Mon Apr 04, 2022 5:34 pm I think the wing is still with my daughter's partner so may be fixable , hopefully
Once you have printed something with a resin printer it is not fully cured , the resin still needs to be cured under UV light to make it fully hard so anybody who has a resin printer either has a UV light of a curing station but curing stations are more expensive , I have the UV lamp , basically the resin is just a thin liquid and can be brush painted onto an FDM printed part then 20 seconds under UV light , it fills the layer lines gradually , after painting a thin coat you cure it with the UV light then you can paint another cote untill it's smooth , the resin is also very easy to sand compared to PLA or most other filaments , it's kind of a lazy way to good looking prints, it's fast too but the resin is not cheap , fortunately it doesn't use much resin .

Thanks, did not even thought about this... And it is quite good idea.

The nerf bars look great ! The main thing i don't care for with 3D printed parts is the layer lines/finished texture. Just looking at your nerf bars, no one would guess they were printed.

SteveMax wrote: ↑Mon Apr 04, 2022 9:30 pm The nerf bars look great ! The main thing i don't care for with 3D printed parts is the layer lines/finished texture. Just looking at your nerf bars, no one would guess they were printed.

It's true that most printed parts have the distinctive layer lines , you get used to the aesthetic of them but your going to have to do a lot of post print sanding to get rid of them unless you can use a short cut , with ABS you can use acetone vapour to melt the surface smooth and some other filaments can be done that way too but it takes time , maybe 30 min and then it takes more time to fully cure afterwards , with the UV resin it's half a minute per coat , the knerf bars are an ideal choice of part as there are no crisp edges , with any smoothing method you tend to loose crisp edges and they need sanding back in after but as I mentioned the resin is very easy sanding compared to most printer filament type plastics .