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Because I'm an idiot and refuse to admit defeat, I'm making my Supershot Re-Re go AS FAST AS POSSIBLE. This does also involve handling better than stock, I.E. like a brick on ketamine. To that end, I've already done some mods to it:



65mm front shocks and some careful adjustment to the shock stays via precision hammer have yielded a much lower ride, fixing the horrible hitching the front end has stock due to the suspension angle it sits at. It also lets it turn MUCH sharper. Unfortunately this creates a problem when you try to turn a bit too quickly and the whole car attempts to launch itself into orbit. Oh well.

You may have noticed the wheels and tires. Since the stock Supershot tires handle well on practically nothing, I looked up dirt tires for buggies. Unfortunately the first thing that came up was 1/10 SC truck tires, and that looked like it'd be hilarious, so I bought those instead. They do grip very nicely. I've just ordered only the best chinesium shocks for the back, four pack so I've got a choice between 92mm and 105mm. This should hopefully alleviate some of the unintended space program moments. I've also got a 10.5t brushless motor coming in (TBLM-02S) which I've been told is the most the gearbox can handle.

I'd like to eventually convert the steering to bell crank, but I'll need to order another mech box for that as I really don't feel like fully disassembling the current one. Also I may have stripped the screws a bit. Anyone have any suggestions for the best/most durable bell crank setup for this thing? Seeing as how, y'know, it's dealing with roughly three times the wheel weight that it should. And if you've got any other ideas, questionable or not, on how to make this thing handle better, let me know.

I have ran a Hotshot on 4s and a 5700 mamba in the past and the gearbox held up fine....the tires didn't tho

Ditch the stock chassis and get a glass fibre one from Factory Works , there's a few to choose from and it transforms the cars handling and serviceability as the access is so much better (looks cool too) , the MIP ball diffs are superb if you can afford them and really help the handling , what most people do with the steering is fit half an RC10 servo saver centrally with a link to the servo , it virtually eliminates bump steer and a lot easier than fitting a bellcrank system .

Dadio wrote: ↑Sat Jan 29, 2022 10:39 am Ditch the stock chassis and get a glass fibre one from Factory Works , there's a few to choose from and it transforms the cars handling and serviceability as the access is so much better (looks cool too) , the MIP ball diffs are superb if you can afford them and really help the handling , what most people do with the steering is fit half an RC10 servo saver centrally with a link to the servo , it virtually eliminates bump steer and a lot easier than fitting a bellcrank system .

I've only found one aftermarket chassis from Factory Works, and it's this one; https://www.ebay.com/itm/303626263186?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=303626263186&targetid=1263433204454&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=9033252&poi=&campaignid=14859008593&mkgroupid=130497710760&rlsatarget=pla-1263433204454&abcId=9300678&merchantid=118842277&gclid=CjwKCAiAxJSPBhAoEiwAeO_fP2aXmfYguk9GQ0GX3GdHhHyNVLSJ3xmoeMIr6NLGtooTEkoKO0uv1BoCKygQAvD_BwE

Are there others that will work? I was also wondering how the durability of that chassis is. I know the stock one isn't exactly up there in terms of rigidity but that FW one looks fragile. Maybe it's just me.

And yes, I'm planning on doing the MIP diffs eventually, it's really only my laziness that prevents me from doing it. Good to know about the servo saver, do you have any examples of how everything gets mounted for that?

coxbros1 wrote: ↑Sat Jan 29, 2022 8:34 am I have ran a Hotshot on 4s and a 5700 mamba in the past and the gearbox held up fine....the tires didn't tho

Good to know! I was originally planning on going with a Tamiya Octa-Wind until several people over on TamiyaClub told me that would result in immediate and violent disassembly of the gearbox. What pinion do you run? I've got a Traxxas 13t steel one in there right now but it doesn't quite mesh as well as a 14t so I think I'll go with one of those next.

I've read that several people didn't like Traxxas 32P pinions on Tamiya cars. Many claimed that they were noisy and didn't mesh well.

I don't know if there is any truth to it. But as a precaution, all my Tamiya cars have Robinson or GP steel pinions on them.

Having said that, most of my cars have Traxxas 48P pinions on them and haven't been a problem.

And like most people, I avoid Tamiya aluminum pinions like the plague.

HotshotMann wrote: ↑Sat Jan 29, 2022 2:37 pm

Dadio wrote: ↑Sat Jan 29, 2022 10:39 am Ditch the stock chassis and get a glass fibre one from Factory Works , there's a few to choose from and it transforms the cars handling and serviceability as the access is so much better (looks cool too) , the MIP ball diffs are superb if you can afford them and really help the handling , what most people do with the steering is fit half an RC10 servo saver centrally with a link to the servo , it virtually eliminates bump steer and a lot easier than fitting a bellcrank system .

I've only found one aftermarket chassis from Factory Works, and it's this one; https://www.ebay.com/itm/303626263186?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=303626263186&targetid=1263433204454&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=9033252&poi=&campaignid=14859008593&mkgroupid=130497710760&rlsatarget=pla-1263433204454&abcId=9300678&merchantid=118842277&gclid=CjwKCAiAxJSPBhAoEiwAeO_fP2aXmfYguk9GQ0GX3GdHhHyNVLSJ3xmoeMIr6NLGtooTEkoKO0uv1BoCKygQAvD_BwE

Are there others that will work? I was also wondering how the durability of that chassis is. I know the stock one isn't exactly up there in terms of rigidity but that FW one looks fragile. Maybe it's just me.

And yes, I'm planning on doing the MIP diffs eventually, it's really only my laziness that prevents me from doing it. Good to know about the servo saver, do you have any examples of how everything gets mounted for that?

Try Factoryworks.com and look under Tamiya in the Reproduction parts listed by manufacturer , there's a Boomerang ,Hotshot and Hotted up Hotshot so three versions listed .

As the maker of those chassis I would absolutely not recommend any of them for this usage. Polar opposite of what they were designed for. They more than likely would be snapped in half while barrel rolling during a 65mph speed run on dirt. There is a person on here selling metal copy of our chassis design which at least could be flattened back out after a crash. https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=46736&p=529353

I've asked, waiting for a reply but I don't think he sells those. I think he just makes them as one-offs for personal use.

GoMachV wrote: ↑Sat Jan 29, 2022 4:17 pm As the maker of those chassis I would absolutely not recommend any of them for this usage. Polar opposite of what they were designed for. They more than likely would be snapped in half while barrel rolling during a 65mph speed run on dirt. There is a person on here selling metal copy of our chassis design which at least could be flattened back out after a crash. https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=46736&p=529353

Hey, any chance you could provide me with the diagrams/measurements/whatever you used to build the chassis in your "hotting up a hotshot" thread? My friend thinks he knows a place than can cut that stuff out of plate aluminum and send it to me. No idea how much they'll charge until I can give them something to give me a quote on, though.

As hoped, the lower dampers on the rear have COMPLETELY SOLVED the issues with handling in turns. Even when cranking it as hard as I could I had zero issues with stability.



Looks a lot better too. Unfortunately, I'll have to give it a bit of toe-in, as the front wheels tend to smack the adjusters in turns, which is why one is screwed all the way out. Overall VERY happy with this so far.

Looks like you could use a smaller stand off at the top of the front shock to bring it in a bit , could be enough to clear the wheel , looking good

Dadio wrote: ↑Tue Feb 01, 2022 3:08 am Looks like you could use a smaller stand off at the top of the front shock to bring it in a bit , could be enough to clear the wheel , looking good

I just went ahead and bought slightly longer shocks so I can flatten the standoffs again - needs a larger diameter spring anyway. The ones on there are for a 1/18th scale car, after all, and they're really not stiff enough for this brick of a car.

I've got the TBLM-02S 10.5t installed now, and it's pretty clear that the TBLE-04S ESC doesn't have the capacity to run it. I think it might actually be slower than with the BZ motor, at least for the moment. Also doesn't seem to have brakes. Probably gonna go with a Hobbywing 10BL120 for the new ESC.

Alright, spent a day at the local track and realized I was going about the suspension COMPLETELY wrong. In the above pictures, the suspension is shown at uncompressed height. Basically, I had the shocks at full extension at all times during normal driving, and it was sitting so the dogbones were level. With a car this heavy, that became something of a problem. It was bottoming out over every bump. I've fixed that now, and for some reason it appears that even though the front isn't at exactly at the height I want, I'm not getting any more of the hitching I was dealing with originally.

Nothing broke, though! And it was making it around decently quickly with the BZ motor, right until the ESC overheated because I'd neglected to put the fan on it the previous night. Unfortunately the mech box has to be zip-tied on now, but the screw indents make for good places to put them so that's fine. The chinese "steel" pinion gear set I ordered works pretty well, it's certainly better than the Traxxas unit. Much less noise and play, though I'm using the 14t gear instead of the 13t of the Traxxas one.

I'm thinking of a Castle Creations ESC/motor combo for the next upgrade. I think Yeah Racing has a fan mount that'll work with the near-zero space this chassis gives me, too.