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This project started out as a t2 pick up from ebay. I'm leaving the original pics up and post up below but here is the current configuration

Chassis
Handmade 3k carbon fiber with clear coat
puretech medium battery strap
fastener express screws

Electronics
Flysky Gt2b
Hobbywing quicrun 120
Savox 1258tg
Novak Ballistic 550 6.5t 3400KV rated to 4s

Wheels
rpm revolver 2.2" Rustler all around

Front end
13mm sc10 4x4 shocks
FT blue titanium camber links
lunsford titanium shock mount for t6
stock shock tower, bulk head,brace
RPM rc10t arms, hex blocks, mini bumper
rc10b4 20degree caster blocks
front spindles from traxxas rustler
j concepts ball bearing bell crank
associated molded center link

Rear end
Stock arm mounts, shock tower,bulkhead, and rear cover, rear hubs
rpm rc10t arms
MIP t4 CVD
rpm hex blocks

Transmissions
RPM gear cover
MIP carbide rebuild kit
Robinson racing aluminum diff
stock top shaft, stock slipper
nostalgia RC carbon fiber slipper pad
32pitch kimbrough 54 tooth spur gear
32 pitch rrp 14 tooth pinion




I am not sure why but I was compelled to get an rc10t2. I managed to be offered one at a darn reasonable price so I picked it up.
I spent the afternoon fitting it up.
So far I have 12mm front hexes on the b4 25degree caster blocks and some t5m big bores I got for a song.

Here it is so far.

The 4-40 nylon nuts are just right for spacing the big bores from the shock towers.

I’m doing the same thing. Picked up a t2 but mine is in a lot worse shape. All my steering and suspension pieces are worn out. Need axles hinge pins cvds and more.

I’m doing the same thing. Picked up a t2 but mine is in a lot worse shape. All my steering and suspension pieces are worn out. Need axles hinge pins cvds and more.

Shane301 wrote: ↑Sat Sep 18, 2021 9:00 pm I’m doing the same thing. Picked up a t2 but mine is in a lot worse shape. All my steering and suspension pieces are worn out. Need axles hinge pins cvds and more.

Did yours have cvd's or universals? Worn parts are tough.With worn out parts you can't tell till you drive it. It can look great in pics. Which axles do you need?


I have only bought 3 used kits, but I am always surprised by the shape they are in. They are always better and worse then I expect, This one obviously hit something hard going very fast. When I detached the nose tube the nose plate twisted. It also came with fitted with metric Phillips screws, instead of hex's on a number of the fittings. I sort of straightened things out but there is still a twist in the nose The nose tubes went from bent to s shaped

I guess it actually has universals but they are definitely worn out. I found some on flea bay and have a request in with Shawn Miller. We shall see.

Yeah the unknown is kind of the excitement of flea bay but usually ends in disappointment.

Last time I talked to Shawn Miller he had 2 newly chopped t2s if you need a nose plate he might be worth checking. He’s usually a little better priced than the bay.

My experience is with buggies not trucks so for what it's worth, I've ran universals in a couple buggies and found that they wear out very quickly.
Also, the longer bone needed for CV's in buggies is nearly impossible to find these days so I have gone back to running standard dog bones in my runner buggies.
Yeah, dog bones may be very low-tech but they work, are the correct length for the application, they last and they are relatively easy to find on ebay and other sources.
Not sure if trucks have the same length issues as buggies for the CV bone. For the one runner buggy that still uses CV's, I haven't seen the rapid wear problem as with universals.
Again, for what it's worth.

Shane301 wrote: ↑Mon Sep 20, 2021 9:58 am I guess it actually has universals but they are definitely worn out. I found some on flea bay and have a request in with Shawn Miller. We shall see.

Yeah the unknown is kind of the excitement of flea bay but usually ends in disappointment.

Last time I talked to Shawn Miller he had 2 newly chopped t2s if you need a nose plate he might be worth checking. He’s usually a little better priced than the bay.

I don't know who Sean Miller is. I wasn't looking to spend much more on this truck, but it can't hurt to ask.

XLR8 wrote: ↑Mon Sep 20, 2021 12:13 pm
Also, the longer bone needed for CV's in buggies is nearly impossible to find these days so I have gone back to running standard dog bones in my runner buggies.

What about the Custom Works CVD bones for buggies? I am running them on a stock team car they seem absolutely fine. They also have slightly longer ones as well.

JosephS wrote: ↑Mon Sep 20, 2021 1:12 pm

XLR8 wrote: ↑Mon Sep 20, 2021 12:13 pm
Also, the longer bone needed for CV's in buggies is nearly impossible to find these days so I have gone back to running standard dog bones in my runner buggies.

What about the Custom Works CVD bones for buggies? I am running them on a stock team car they seem absolutely fine. They also have slightly longer ones as well.

Thank you for reminding me Joseph, I always forget about Custom Works.
I needed ball studs a while back and someone kindly pointed me to CW for those as well.
I guess I should add another post-it note to my keyboard.

JosephS wrote: ↑Mon Sep 20, 2021 1:10 pm

Shane301 wrote: ↑Mon Sep 20, 2021 9:58 am I guess it actually has universals but they are definitely worn out. I found some on flea bay and have a request in with Shawn Miller. We shall see.

Yeah the unknown is kind of the excitement of flea bay but usually ends in disappointment.

Last time I talked to Shawn Miller he had 2 newly chopped t2s if you need a nose plate he might be worth checking. He’s usually a little better priced than the bay.

I don't know who Sean Miller is. I wasn't looking to spend much more on this truck, but it can't hurt to ask.

Rc10 chop shop on Facebook is Shawn Miller he has tons of show and runner parts for almost any rc10 and constantly getting more.

So the truck has been coming along slowly.
It amazing how much all of the small parts cost.
The diff was missing a bunch of parts once I opened it up. I got a MIP carbide diff kit. I ordered the custom works bearing for inside the diff. I also had to order some custom works ball studs to finish out the front end. The nose plate looks like it came from a gt/t since I had to cut threads in it to assemble it in the corrcet 10t2 position. I was able to get hexes on all 4 corners and hooked up the rpm revolver wheels with some traxxas tires.
I just really like this kit. Even in it’s condition it feel like a deluxe version of the Rc10t.

A bit to finish up on it. The big parts are electronics and a body.

That's coming together nicely, looking forward to seeing what you do with body.

RC10th wrote: ↑Sun Oct 10, 2021 10:17 pm That's coming together nicely, looking forward to seeing what you do with body.

I am not sure what to do, body and paint aren't my strong suit. I am getting better but I don't have anything at all in mind.

JosephS wrote: ↑Mon Oct 11, 2021 5:03 pm

RC10th wrote: ↑Sun Oct 10, 2021 10:17 pm That's coming together nicely, looking forward to seeing what you do with body.

I am not sure what to do, body and paint aren't my strong suit. I am getting better but I don't have anything at all in mind.

As a rattle can guy, I find that straight lines and tasteful decals go a long way.

Fitting up the electronics.
Futaba s3001
Spectrum firma 40a receiver/esc combo
Techflex clean cut wirewrap
Some threaded rod to extend the height for the lipo