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My builds are going out of sequence. My 6 yo kid had enough fun with my team at build and asked to build a truck. I just happened to have the parts from an eBay find washed and hydrated. I was going to finish my team car first but, I wanted to jump in while the iron was hot. I was expecting the first build to be a lunchbox but somethings don’t go as expected.

I was looking for inspiration on if I could take my vintage rc10’s and be competitive against traxxas rtr’s for club racing.

Then I ran across this https://www.reedyrace.com/ae/spotlight/pages/RC10T_Van/index.html

A Rc10t with light modifications placing first in a non-vintage event at the track I plan on racing at. It seems that the truck will be more sufficient for my modest skill level.

So that is directing this build. As well I am working to get this a runner as fast as the kid wants to build it so this is likely gong to be built and then rebuilt

The truck started like this What the picture didn’t show was a broken rear arm mount and a hinge pin that looked like a W. It was also missing a dogbone.

The futaba electronics all seem to be working and everything else was in good condition. The chassis was nice enough I was considering a hard reanodize, but that is off since I don’t want to delay the build.

I have some parts on order but likely this will be a runner before they get here.

Here is where the build is today .
All by the numbers, sandwich in had and checks by each step.

Chris has been quite generous sharing what he could with me over the course of my build. It's a truck he ran once and put away, so I may have spent more time on this than he did. I think this is still the most modern major win with a vintage rc10t. Many of the parts that were not hard for him to get at the time are more challenging now.

I had this spot as a place holder so I could fill in more of the final details of the build, including things that were not on the setup sheets.

Electronics
Hobbywing justock ESC
Airtronics/Sanwa M12 gold edition
Airtronics/Sanwa 92744
Reedy #254 17.5 M3 motor
Reedy RT1508 Digital HV Hi-Torque servo
Reedy #27301 5600mAh Zappers
Reedy #27200 1216-C2 Dual AC/DC competition charger
Transponder ???

So I have been abundantly lucky so far in sourcing parts for the transmission. Most of the non-standard parts were there. I was able to get most new for reasonable prices.

Avid now makes and stock a lightened aluminum top shaft for the b4 and the v1 stealth! It costs far less than an original steel one from eBay.
The Thorpe dirt burner Derlin machine gear wasn’t difficult to source at all, barely an inconvenience.
I am finishing up the inside with ceramic diff balls and bearing from Acer and Avid.

So all in all I am able to get the right transmission pieces for the build.

Edit.
The slipper eliminator here isn't quite the right one. It appears that slipper should be CW part 2228 but 3563 is current listed part. I had trouble getting the slipper eliminator 3564 to clear the motor mounting plate.

If you didn't want it to be an exact copy, you could have used a Dynotech gear adapter with the original V1 input shaft.

Just something to keep in mind in the future.

juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Fri Jun 25, 2021 5:08 pm If you didn't want it to be an exact copy, you could have used a Dynotech gear adapter with the original V1 input shaft.

Just something to keep in mind in the future.

I think the truck as raced had an aluminum V1 top shaft. If you look at the slipper eliminator closely in my picture , which I should have, it's an eliminator for the v1 top shaft since it needs the pin. I'll have to decide where to go from there.

I'm going to see if I can return it as it is Nip and get an eliminator for the b4 top shaft. I'm sure this isn't the first mistake I am going to make sourcing parts. It stings a bit since the eliminator was an expensive part for this lot.

I'm also thinking if drilling the side and tapping a set screw so it can work for a v1 or v2. I wonder if that arrangement would handle the torque from a stock motor.

In general the b4 top shaft is a nice thing to have for my parts bin. It opens a lot of options for the future.

I am glad that this worked!
The Custom works Short Bone CVD kit fits the rc10. As well when coupled with associated 7379 they look like they will work on the 10T.

Progress one bit at a time. I went on a road trip today after work and hit up some hobby shops. The first shop had very little associated parts. I the cashier asked where I might find a hobby shop that had some, then I was shown 'the box.' It was a big box to sift through and mostly b8 and 18b/t parts. There were some nice finds like a hardened .56,1.02 and 1.32 shock bodies (singles only) I was able to source some losi bearing front wheels, hex associated rears as well as the rear tires which I didn't find online.

That race is somewhere on the internet....quite a race. He VanAired it out on that back stretch triple? Or tabletop? IIRCC he made a pass in mid-air!! It was totally bitchin'. Imma go find it......FOUND IT!......a link to it, here, on RC10Talk, of course.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gFR34RNFBJU

Thanks goes to Beatnik for the link.

TRX-1-3 wrote: ↑Sun Jun 27, 2021 7:47 am That race is somewhere on the internet....quite a race. He VanAired it out on that back stretch triple? Or tabletop? IIRCC he made a pass in mid-air!! It was totally bitchin'. Imma go find it......FOUND IT!......a link to it, here, on RC10Talk, of course.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gFR34RNFBJU

Thanks goes to Beatnik for the link.

Thank you so much for that. I didn't find much on the other racers. I wasn't sure about the other trucks but to hear that the b5m was the other contender was amazing. I assumed given the year that it would have been t4.2's. To see that it was competitive against a mid-motor was something I didn't expect. Basically the b5m had would would have been every option part advantage.

It was great to see the line that was being run by the racers. It looks like that track configuration is history.(it's easier to see on the facebook page.)
I can run at the same place but the track is a new configuration. It looks like the triple was replaced with a quad. Still it doesn't look like anything is going to break my stuff.

Still my goal with this is to drive a pro-setup. The 2016 setup will certainly be a good starting point.

Thanks again. This is pretty exciting.

I'm not 100% sure the 3563 adapter would have fitted the standard setup anyway, i think the backplate would foul on the motor plate before the recess would engage with the pin in the topshaft

Delorean wrote: ↑Wed Jun 30, 2021 7:30 pm I'm not 100% sure the 3563 adapter would have fitted the standard setup anyway, i think the backplate would foul on the motor plate before the recess would engage with the pin in the topshaft

Maybe there was a modification, but looking at the parts and comparing it to the picture of the truck I think that was the part used. The gear cover is stock and the v2 top shaft needs the longer cover. Of the CW pieces, the only ones that looks effective on a pinned shaft is 3563.

The newer RPM gear covers clear the B4 shaft.

juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Thu Jul 01, 2021 11:50 am The newer RPM gear covers clear the B4 shaft.

I'm going to have to get one of those to finish the build.

Bulkhead madness. This build has lots of things documented, there are a bunch of things that are not fully clear.
So here are some upsized pics to try and sus out what the suspension mounting needs to be done.


There is a notation of a custom hold placement to replicate the worlds bulk head. It looks like the bulkhead that I have isn't going to need any extra holes. I'm judging this by the line up of the holes and the wing tube.

I got tired of waiting for parts and built the truck up to run today.

Soldered up the motor and used the stock futaba esc.
The only battery I had was the 700mah that I found and it is a special kind of angry pushing around the truck. I actually get about 5 minutes out of it before it croaks.
Tons of fun.
This is my smoothest transmission rebuild. I’m going to rebuild my buggy with the same ceramic thrust bearings.

It’ll be pretty great when the proper parts arrive.

I just got in the new shock bodies and had time to build the front shocks.
I found the new threaded bodies in my price range and I am glad I did. I didn’t expect the shocks to be much different than the orange ones. I was so wrong. These are so much smoother I am glad I did this build just to learn this part.

The shocks are just absolutely silky smooth. I used the existing pistons, spacers and click ring from the old shocks. The build had the traxxas super rebuild kit rings, new metric chrome shock shafts and the threaded bodies.

I am not sure which of the new parts is making the difference, though I suspect the slightly thinner shock shafts and the traxxas shock seals are most of it.