RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Just posted my "hello" https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?p=520401#p520401 so I'm here to get some help and advice on how to revive my old, bashed and abused RC10 B3.

I'm UK based (Northern Ireland), so I'm hoping to source bits and pieces online from UK/Europe.

I'll dive in with the pictures... the damp has got to the steel parts, but I think it'll be ok...

I have the blue shell that was used and an unused red shell - the red one will look well when the car is fixed up I think:


I'm going to need wheels and tyres for sure. You can see the rusty bits clearly unfortunately. The modified motor is fit for the bin and I know... those solder joints... I was young back then. Shameful!





ESC is clean but I'll welcome advice - should I go brushless? Or stick with the ESC and get a new brushed motor?





Underneath is scratched up - can you sand, prep and paint the engine mount/skid pan?



I started to disassemble things today - and found siezed screws with stripped heads. Screw extractor kit off amazon arrives tomorrow and I'll hopefully be able to strip this. Happy to have any advice and tips at this stage from the experts!

Jconcepts and JC Racing both offer wheels that fit modern 2.2 tires.

Being UK based, JC Racing may be easier for you.


A little heat on the screws may help get them out. A large tip soldering iron would probably work well.

juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Tue Feb 23, 2021 8:02 pm Jconcepts and JC Racing both offer wheels that fit modern 2.2 tires.

Being UK based, JC Racing may be easier for you.


A little heat on the screws may help get them out. A large tip soldering iron would probably work well.

Thanks for the JC Racing heads up - dropped them an email and am getting a lovely set of black 5 spokes with Schumacher mini pins and foams.

Continued my strip down today. Probably should have paid more attention to the exact screws I was removing... but I'll worry about that later!

I'd forgotten that I'd bought a Reedy Platinum back when I got this many years ago. Its been scratched up a bit and has now rusted a bit, but courtesy of Youtube... I worked out how to take it apart. It turned out good! Very little wear internally. I never raced this buggy - the odd garden and driveway bash only.

Yuk:



Not too bad inside mind you.... brushes are like new really. Bit of scarring on the armature from the damp. should be ok...



Love the hand etched markings



I had a couple of "Garryflex" engineers abrasive blocks, so set to work cleaning up that can. Delighted with the result:





So - thats decided. I'm keeping the old brushed modded motor and ESC. I'll keep it "vintage" for now.

Stripped the rear end. I'm going to paint the aluminium satin black to get rid of those battle scars. I bagged each side up in an attempt to contain the bits better. Opened a rear shock - it was almost dry! I'll have to sort that out in due course.





I'll split the diff/gearbox separately later but I'd assume its dirty and dry in there. Its a bit stiff feeling... gritty. Am I ok to just clean up that slipper clutch spring? I was gonna use automotive brake cleaner spray. Is that ok??.... or better binned and replaced?

Finally.... lipos. I want to try to run the original ESC. Anyone able to advise a brand/spec of lipo pack that would be ok? I have to confess I know NOTHING about these notations.. 20c etc.. I know about 2S 3S for the # of cells... so am happy to take advice on what will 1. Fit the OE battery position and 2. Give good power and run times without blowing up that ESC!

Thanks!

Keep the brake cleaner away from plastic, it will soften it. I have a Shimano reel that has my fingerprints permanently imbedded into it because of brake cleaner.

juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Thu Feb 25, 2021 4:44 pm Keep the brake cleaner away from plastic, it will soften it. I have a Shimano reel that has my fingerprints permanently imbedded into it because of brake cleaner.

Noted! I'll just use it to clean off the spring and stuff like the rusty links in the suspension.

Any ideas regarding a LIPO that'll work with this standard ESC and that motor?

Any 2S will work, just find one that fits.

Since the esc doesn't have a lipo cutoff, get one of the little buzzers.