RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Hey guys/gals!

Name is Robb and just getting back into RC after about a 10+ year break, and have never run an onroad car before. But when a RC10L popped up on FB a couple of weeks ago, it reminded me of how much I loved these cars from afar while watching at the local carpet track, and all those beautiful ads in RCCA back in the day!

I ended up buying a true racer's car, as if he came home from the tack one day 15-20 years ago, put everything in a box, and waited for me to show up and pick it all up on the cheap. Chassis is CF with all the goodies of the day, two truck bodies, true pit box stand, ol'-school fancy Competition Electronics charger, BRP motor dyno, multiple brushed motors, Novak electronics ,nice Futaba pistol grip, plus "the" box of all the spares and any parts needed.

I have a 13.5T brushless motor / ESC on the way, new Rx/TX, Lipos, Tundra body (going to stay true to its truck heritage), a "lot" of wheels / tires I found on ebay, etc. Will hopefully keep this thread updated with the progress.

Now just need to find peeps in my area for some parking lot fun. Seems to be dead around my parts.

That's awesome! Time capsule racers are always cool. But! You absolutely need to show a good pic of the spares, I'm sure there's some cool stuff in there

yeah...we want to see the dyno!

Makes me think an old school "Hardee's" stickerage would look sweet on a truck body. It's probably that orange TURBOCHARGER sticker across the hood that makes me think of that.
Cool truck.

Nice truck bud looks great chassis looks good...........

Your pit box circa 2000........................

The PO had installed a kinda shock dampner in the rear end to help smooth out side to side motion of the rear sub-assembly. It was a simple plastic assembly that can be seen in the original chassis pic. I took an influence from this and the rear spring/shock set up of the 10L3, and came up with a compromise. Not sure how well it will work in the real world, but we will see. I am just kinda goofing off with small stuff like this while I wait for parts. I need to get the motor / esc in so I work on balancing out the chassis. Without having all the weight, I am on hold...............

I was today years old when I learned that 1/10 pan car tire donuts are not a common item, and if you do find them, they are just as expensive as buying pre-glued wheel / tire combos!

Getting back into this, I was kinda exited about buying donuts, and mounting them myself, and trueing them myself ............. and having that wheel / tire combo be something I created on my own. So, when I ran across a "lot" of new and used wheels I just went for it, and I would figure out what donuts I wanted later. I didn't care about the colors, because I was going to dye most of them dark gray or black. But when that time came to get donuts; nope, no donuts out there. And when I have run across them, they are $10 - 15 a pair, which means I might as well buy pre-mounted. Here I am trying to make a conscious effort to reduce the amount of plastic I use in this world, but it doesn't make sense in this regard.

Are people running foams regularly really buying new wheels and tires every time they wear down a set of tires??

I've found NOS foam donuts around, but its rare. Often I will buy used, pre-mounted wheels/tires from other racers at my local tracks. I run my foams much longer than the typical racer, usually till the plastic of the wheel just starts to show. I'm thrifty like that, though.

morrisey0 wrote: ↑Sat Jan 16, 2021 7:18 pm I was today years old when I learned that 1/10 pan car tire donuts are not a common item, and if you do find them, they are just as expensive as buying pre-glued wheel / tire combos!

Getting back into this, I was kinda exited about buying donuts, and mounting them myself, and trueing them myself ............. and having that wheel / tire combo be something I created on my own. So, when I ran across a "lot" of new and used wheels I just went for it, and I would figure out what donuts I wanted later. I didn't care about the colors, because I was going to dye most of them dark gray or black. But when that time came to get donuts; nope, no donuts out there. And when I have run across them, they are $10 - 15 a pair, which means I might as well buy pre-mounted. Here I am trying to make a conscious effort to reduce the amount of plastic I use in this world, but it doesn't make sense in this regard.

Are people running foams regularly really buying new wheels and tires every time they wear down a set of tires??

Hey bud looking forward to the progress

After waiting what seemed like months, I finally got my motor and ESC in. With the motor in hand, I could mock up and print my new upper brace plate for clearance for the wiring. With the motor finally in place, I can work on weight distribution for all the components. Should get fun for awhile!

Warmed up a little today, so good time to paint a body. I HATE trimming / painting poly/lexan bodies, so I don't put too much effort into it. I am a "looks good from three foot away" kind of guy, so I don't get too bothered by leaking paint and runs and such. This pic actually shows the worst of the leaks, so overall, I am happy with it. I was thinking about going without a number, but there is so much space there that I will continue the #6 that the PO ran. I stuck the white wheels on there just because the paint scheme wasn't working with the black original wheels, and although the honeycomb pattern is completely incorrect for this vehicle, it is kinda growing on me! Of course, just because I need them, there seems to be little to no support for 1/10 pan car WHITE foam tire wheels out there. Oh well, it'll be fine!

Not bad at all! Looks good to me and no worries about putting scratches in it!

Seeing as this truck will probably never be an oval car, I wanted to mount the battery semi symmetrically. The chassis adjusters take away the best location, so I came up with a decent compromise I think, although too forward for my liking. Still staying committed to not drilling any new holes in the chassis, I came up with a tray that is held down by the servo and shock mount screws. And mounted this way, I can move the ESC to the driver side and eliminate the super long motor wires.

Fake servo is just in there until the shorty shows up. Just in there for mocking.

Might be hard to drive like that, weight over the back tires is your friend, especially with a pan car. Can you use a saddle pack and make the holder mount to the nerf bars and shock mount?