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Hi,

I picked up this pile of bits (as well as a couple of motors and servos, and a Tekin speed controller) from my parent's house after 25+ years of it all gathering dust.

Its a Team car with B stamp chassis that was bought second-hand by my ham-fisted teenage self who probably didn't do it any favours, however I'd like to remedy that and restore it as much as possible. I'm new to restoring RC10s but from what I can gather I'm going to need some hydrogen peroxide and UV-B reptile bulbs (its autumn and the UK) to whiten the plastic. It'll need to be cleaned first, what's best to clean the plastic and metal parts?

The tub is quite scratched so I'd like to strip the paint, sand the scratches (if that's advisable) and get it re-coated, is there a recommended paint to do this?

Also, is there anywhere in the UK that's good for parts (other than eBay)? I've found this place so far: https://rccarshop.co.uk/spares/team-associated-spares/rc10-classic.

Any help much appreciated. Apologies if the above are answered elsewhere, my search foo might be lacking

Cheers,

Rich.

Hello Rich,

Welcome to the board. I’m a fellow UK member based in the North East.

I have never used the peroxide process but I reckon a good clean with a toothbrush, warm water and washing up liquid would be the first step.

I’ve had little success getting hold of parts in the UK, most of my stuff has been kindly supplied by fellow members of this great site.

It’ll be nice to see a team car brought back to life

Welcome aboard!

^^^"It'll need to be cleaned first, what's best to clean the plastic and metal parts?"^^^

Some folks use dishwashing liquid and warm water or Simple Green. For the hinge pin bores and blind holes, I've had success with pipe cleaners. As for the peroxide, it definately works. Just be sure to rinse the parts very well (even soak them a few times in clean water) and be sure to agitate the peroxide solution out of all the holes and pockets/blind holes. The chassis tub is anodized I believe and you can strip the anodizing but you'll want to take special caution with that process as I believe it involves caustic product(s) any contact with the aluminum past the point of removing the anodizing with result in eating at and pitting the aluminum.....

Just some things to think about..

Ive had great success soaking and then scrubbing everything in simple green. I use toothbrushes and pipe cleaners to get into all the small holes.

I dont mind the yellowing of the old nylon... in my opinion, it give it a nice patina.

Good luck with your restoration.

Thanks all for your help and advice.

I've ordered some Simple Green and a toothbrush so will start with giving it a clean, but won't be dipping the chassis in Nitromors!

I want to avoid forking out for a new chassis (£100+ on eBay), so if it wouldn't be sacrilege I'm thinking of filing the scratches and giving it a coat of satin Hammerite, but will try a small patch first.

Sounds like I'll need to gain access to the buy/sell forum for parts

I'll post some pics once its looking a little better!

Thanks again,

Rich.

Hi Rich and welcome aboard.

Everything recommended here works except for some reason I've never had much luck with Simple green. For the nylon parts, I prefer to use dish soap, very hot water, and an old tooth brush. I think it's important to remove all traces of grease and oil before the peroxide soak.
After removing parts from the peroxide, I will boil the parts (low simmer) for about 5 minutes to remove peroxide residue and to re-hydrate the nylon. Before reassembly, be sure to remove all remaining water/peroxide solution from the screw holes - I use compressed air for this. If there is any water/peroxide solution remaining in the screw holes, it will rust your screws and ruin the anno.

Looking forward to seeing your project.

Hi Doug,

Thanks for the welcome and info, I’ve now got what I need to make a start so will post some pics once I’ve made some progress

Hi Rich, welcome aboard

All good recommendations above to get your car back looking nice and clean.

Hammerite is an interesting approach I've never heard of anyone using it on a chassis, would be curious to see how that turns out. I watch a lot of tool/machine restoration videos on Youtube and Hammerite looks to be the go to for those restorations.

Another option to consider if you are not re-anodizing is Cerakote. It gives a matte powder coat like finish and can be done in your oven (when the wife is not home, of course

->Mark

Good luck with the rebuild, Im just starting one as well. It seems to be a complete mission to get hold of parts in the UK.

Ive been hunting for a rear wing fitting kit with no luck. So it looks like I’m going to have to try and come up with a bodge!

These guys seem to have a few bits so might be worth a look:

https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/c/1108/?gclid=Cj0KCQiA3Y-ABhCnARIsAKYDH7urbHs2OEnT1f6uPQlCRNbRj85gV-WWja1Dyue93LM1YVrfNHry2nwaAmPTEALw_wcB

Im hoping with Biden coming in the US is a few days, him and old Bozza can have a chat and sort a good trade deal... then we can order all the bits we need from the US without the shocking import fees